Replies

1. 
   BILLB | Nov 28, 2009 07:07am | #1

   Hello Sleepydad,

   I've used a chain mortiser like the one shown in several timber framing projects. They can be a bit intimidating at first, but once you get used to it they're not bad at all. In my timber framing projects layout is always done with a knife for the sake of precision. I've found that I could comfortably and repeatedly use the chain mortiser to within 1/8" on my layout lines with the balance being finished with framing chisels. Depending on your location, you may be able to find one at a tool rental store to try it out before you spring for the full price.

   Best Regards,

   Bill B.

1. 
   sleepydad | Nov 28, 2009 07:27pm | #2

   I was hoping to use it for full size interior doors and some timber stuff.<!----><!----><!---->

   Doing them on the drill press with a forester bit works ok but it's slow and door stiles are long and heavy.<!----><!---->

   Sounds like it might not be acurate enough for what I want?  I have also done them on the router table with a 3/4 spiral upcut bit. but you are limited to about 1 5/8" and for door Mortises I like to be 2"+.<!----><!---->

   What I need is a horizonal mortiser.  I have seen them around but they tend to be pretty expensive.<!----><!---->

    

1. 
   danmart | Nov 28, 2009 11:21pm | #3

   You can get away with a plunge router and long spiral bits. I routinely mortise 3" stiles with the router and a jig set up.

   I have a chain mortiser and that is overkill for doors. You can get some long spiral up/down bits from MSC with 3/8" shafts and they are not expensive. Put the collet in the router and you are in business.

   Might be the solution?

   dan

1. 
   sleepydad | Nov 30, 2009 05:25pm | #7

   do you use end mill bits?

   I have used this bit on my router table with stops and increasing the depth slowly.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42891&cat=1%2c46168%2c46173&ap=1

   86J01.42

   3/4"

   1-1/4"

   1/2"

   where do you find 3" long up/down bits?

1. 
   danmart | Nov 30, 2009 10:26pm | #8

   MSC

   http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm

   Look at their inventory of bits for the length you want.

   good luck

   dan

2. 
   sleepydad | Nov 30, 2009 10:51pm | #9

   I have never ever been able to find anything on their site.

   do you know a part#

   I don't have a 3/8 collet but I'm pretty sure somebody makes a generic I could get for my Porter Cable.

3. 
   dgreen | Nov 30, 2009 11:24pm | #10

   Porter Cable part number for the 3/8 collett is 42975. Amazon has it for 15 bucks if you can't find it locally. 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

4. 
   sleepydad | Nov 30, 2009 11:30pm | #11

   no I mean the router bit.

   do you know what the part # for the router bit you use is. I still can't find anything with a cutting length > 2 1/8

5. 
   danmart | Dec 01, 2009 06:22pm | #16

   Here's a simple path.

   http://www.ekstromcutter.com/

   Go to this site and look over the bits. I would start with hss and not solid carbide. They work well and they are a low investment as you try for the bits you really need.

    

   You can find 1/2" shafts and 3/8 shafts. With a 1/2 shaft and a 1/2 diameter cutter that is 5" long, you can plunge quite deep. I use the shortest bit till the depth runs out than change to a longer bit as I plunge to final depth.

   photos of bits I use to get an idea.

   give them a try

   
2. 
   squeak | Dec 04, 2009 01:24am | #17

   s.d.,
   i also use a plunge router and home made jig and a long spiral(4") x 1/2" bits to make mortises in door stock and then use floating tenons and epoxy.......have made about 7 doors this way and they are still going strong after 15 years. the joint is really strong and once you get the hang, easy.
   squeak

2. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 29, 2009 08:05pm | #4

   Shouldn't this be in the "Scary Tool" thread? ;-)

3. 
   philip | Nov 30, 2009 10:30am | #5

   Chain mortisers are not noted for accurate work.....

   Philip Marcou
1. 
   BILLB | Nov 30, 2009 03:51pm | #6

   Good Morning All,

   Phillip is correct. The chain mortiser is definitely a roughing operation. In timber framing the chain mortiser removes the majority of waste from the mortise and the framer then refines the mortise with hand tools.

   To RalphBarker...the chain mortiser is pretty mild when compared to the 16 inch...that's right 16 inch,  hand held circular saw common to timber framing shops.

   Have a great day.

   BillB

4. 
   RickL | Dec 01, 2009 04:49pm | #12

   http://www.lagunatools.com/mortisers/mortiser-platinumhs

   Chain mortisers can be accurate. We gave several of those in our timber shop.  We used stationary chain mortisers in the furniture industry for many years. 

   The horizontal slot mortiser is the best for custom and production runs in my experience, especially for a small shop. So easy a novice can produce accurate and repeatable results. The low rpm (3600) is great for dowel drilling and horizontal boring.  HSS endmills last a long time and are pretty inexpensive. That's what we've been using for 25 years in our slot mortisers.

1. 
   sleepydad | Dec 01, 2009 05:03pm | #13

   thanks

   I ordered the chain mortiser... will see how it performs. 

1. 
   RickL | Dec 01, 2009 05:47pm | #14

   I was actually advocating the use of the slot mortiser.

1. 
   sleepydad | Dec 01, 2009 06:01pm | #15

   it was a hard call for me... what I really need is something to cut mortises in timber. so I went with it.

   the slot mortiser would be tough to lug outside and cut mortises in a 10"x12"x12' long timber.  right now that is what I need.

   I still would like to be able to cut a 3" deep mortise in door stile but I'm hoping I might be able to get away with doing it with the chain mortiser.

   if it comes up short and I have to go back to my router to cut them then so be it.