I am making some Shaker Oval Boxes –
I want to make my own Veneer – I can cut the smaller widths safely on the table saw.
For the wider veneer on the table saw I would need to cut 1/2 the depth and flip it over to cut all the way through.
The thickness of the wider veneer varies from .072 to .095 – the width of the veneer varies from 3 1/16 to 4 3/8 .
I cut 2 of the 4 3/8 wide veneers on the table saw today. Theres got to be a safer way to cut the wider veneer.
I am going to buy the new Delta X5- 1 1/2 hp Band Saw . How thin do you think I could resaw? Would this be the best way to go?
I have access to a big wide belt sander at work -Maybe cut the veneer thick – making a sled with a stop to lay thicker veneer on and run it through the Time Saver. I have never sanded anything this thin before, do you think the pinch rollers would hold it?
Looking for some ideas
Thanks Ron
Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
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That is how lots of pro's do it.
They use a bandsaw to slice the veneer off of the lumber. A wide-belt sander, or a drum sander, is used to clean up the saw marks on one side of the veneer. A jointer is used to cleanup the saw marks on the remaining lumber, so that the next slice of veneer needs only one side cleaned up on the sander.
I've cut quite a bit of veneer on my hot rodded Delta 14", (riser block, Carter guides, 1 1//2 hp motor and home brewed fence). The "Timberwolf" blades made bigest difference though, low tension, very sharp and long lasting. The combonation of jointing each face then sanding works very well.
How much thicker do you cut the veneer with your set up?
I made some to day with the table saw almost 1/8 thick and sanded down to 5/64. I could only get 3 slabs form 3/4 thickness on the Table Saw.
How many slabs would you think I could get with a band saw that would clean up in the sander from 3/4 thickness?
Thanks RonWho Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
At least four, I always started with rough 4/4 stock, surface one face and one edge, far less waste that way. If the saw is tuned well and you can clean the sawn face with one pass on the jointer, there is very little loss. The bandsaw kerf is at least less than half that of the tablesaw blade and a LOT safer, (far less dust too). It will just take some tuning and practice to get it right. The Timberwolf blades have the least drift of any I have ever used and that makes for very easy resawing.
Have you tried the Wood Slicer blades that Highland Hardware sells?Who Ever Has The Biggest Pile Of Tools When You Die Wins
I have not, I stocked up on the Timberwolf's at a show a few years ago, (the demo was very good!). and they are better than promised. I think the price is a lot better too. Those and a well tuned, powerful saw made resawing fun, I look for projects now that will require it!
I just taught a shaker box class yesterday at a local woodcraft store.
Using a tablesaw, just eats up too much wood. I have an 18" General International BS with a carbide tipped blade. I set up a long fence, not a point fence, to rip thin strips off a much larger block.
Plus, a BS is safer to use.
I use a dial vernier caliper to measure the thickness of the first few strips that come off the BS. The last ones were coming off around .100" thick.
Next, the strips went through my Delta drumsander. I don't run the just sawed face of the block over the jointer. I just keeping saw at the BS. I have to sand both sides of the strips but it works. Getting ready for this last class, I just sanded everything down to .055". That was boxes #1, 2, & 3. They worked fine for bending.
Anyhoo... I took plenty of pictures of the time-consuming and multi-stepped process in preparation for the class. When I get them loaded to my computer, I'll try to get them posted here.
P.S. Check out my tenoning jig article in FWW Feb 2002, page 73.
P.P.S. Cherry does a number on sandpaper for the Delta drum sander. Anyone have any suggestions to stop the burning?
You will need to clean the sandpaper more often and take very small incremental cuts. Run the transport belt faster. All will contribute to better results. Cherry is so resinous as to clog the sandpaper very quickly, so frequent cleaning with the rubberr stick is important. The finer the grit, the lighter the pass needs to be. I have been running cherry on my 25" performax for several years, and find it to be one of the most difficult to sand above 120 grit. Only worse is cocobolo. Hope this helps.
Iggy
Have you considered jobbbing it out to a framesaw.
http://www.wintersteigerusa.com
Virtually no waste becuse the kerf is so small .035" and the finish is between sanded and planed so you actually lose a step compared to the methods you are using.
. It's real nice for laminated bending because most of the board is still there so it looks more natural. Theres a place on Long Island that will slice your board or supply the board and offer 1/10", 1/8", etc thicknesses, up to 8" wide and unlimited length and affordable.
No, I haven't jobbed that part out. I don't have that much of a need for veneer strips to send the wood to NJ and have them send it back.
Besides, that's why I bought a $1,000 bandsaw and a $120 carbide tipped blade to do.
And, again, when I get my pictures onto my computer I'll post them here.
Tomorrow is trash day, so I gotta go clean the shop.
Thanks for the input!
Hi again!
I've finally gotten my pics uploaded to my computer. I resized them using Irfanview.
This will be my first time posting pics to this forum, so we'll see....
Picture #1: I find it easier to saw strips from a shorter block of wood. So here I am using a chainsaw to cut blocks 1" longer than the band length required. Notice the marble block I'm using as a counterweight. Steel toe boots would have been good to have then.
Picture #2: This is how I set up my BS for resawing. I've figured out an "offset" because of the blade's lead angle. So the fence needs to be so far in from the right hand edge of the table.
Picture #3: Again, I have the offset figured and I'm setting the outfeed end of the fence. BUT having just read Mike Fortune's article in the latest FWW, I'm beginning to wonder if I have my BS set up correctly.
I'll post a reply to this to add some more pics.
Well, that was a lot easier than I thought it would be!
Picture #1: Just to give you an idea of how much wood is turned into sawdust.
Picture#2: Holly cow! What? I lost 1 1/4" plus to sawdust!
Picture#3: This is my in pile. These are the strips after they have been run through the Delta drum sander on one side only.
Picture#4: This is how thin they need to be, or thinner. Vernier calipers or a micrometer is needed to measure that.
I took a lot of pics to document how much it takes to get ready for a Shaker Oval Box class. I had not been in the shop for a while so I had to clean the rust off the BS and Parks 95 jointer/planer. And I sprayed them with Boeshield for the first time. Then I had to cut new strips for the drum sander. It took a lot of time. I still have to sand the 1/4" thick bottom and lid stock.
Are you resawing without cleaning up the cut face of the block on a jointer after each pass? If you joint the cut face before each additional cut, one side of each strip will be finished, saving you half the work on the sander.
John W.
Edited 10/30/2004 6:28 pm ET by JohnW
And a heavy piece of cherry at that! Thanks, Jim.
No, I don't go back over to my jointer because I don't have a central DC. It's just too much of a hassle for me to disconnect my drum style DC from the BS and hook it up to my jointer. Then reconnect it to the BS. It is a Parks Model #95 combination jointer/planer. So I've had to cobble together a dust/shaving collection hood for both the "jointer side" and the "planer side". Kind of a pain. But given the small confines of my shop, 13 X 22 I.D., it does OK. It's a good thing for mobile bases.
I just resaw a bit thicker and sand both sides with the Delta DS.
In an ideal world I'd have a dedicated 8" jointer, but then again I would have 3 times the space and central DC. And a.... And the.....Ahhhh, what dreams are made of.......
How do you like the delta DS? Secondly, whats the shortest length you have sent through it? Thanks.
I like the Delta drum sander. I don't have experience with any other models or manufacturers, so I can't compare it to anything else.
I have not had a problem with it. Me, being an idiot, fiddled with the conveyor belt tracking adjustment when I first got it. "Mmmn.... I wonder what these screws do." Then later on after reading the manual it said something like "the conveyor belt has been set at the factory...." Ooops.... So I fuss with tracking screws from time to time.
The shortest piece I've sent through it was yesterday. The bottoms and tops for the Shaker boxes run close to 1/4" in thickness. I mistakenly cut a larger block yeah long and then resawed. When I got over to the DS, I was like "Oh....Oh.." But they went through OK. 7 1/2" long. I just kept butting a fresh piece into the back of piece already in the sander.
I just checked the DS. It has two spring loaded rollers, one infeed & one outfeed that press the wood down on to the conveyor belt. Those two rollers are about 7" apart. I figured the DS is trying to shoot the wood back out at you, so you need to have at least one of those roller pressing down on the board at all times.
It probably says somewhere in the manual how short you can go on that. Ideally, whatever pieces you need, double their length if they're that short. Run 'em on through. And cross cut to correct length after they're all sanded.
Thats a nice piece of cherry!
Jim
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