Hi there,
I’m making a large frame and panel bookcase and file cabinet and have never made raised panels before. I’m wondering about some raised panel bit suggestions. The case is cherry and I would like a good bit to minimize any burning and excessive sanding. I don’t think I plan to relieve the back side unless you can give me a good reason to. My panels are 3/4 so it is possible, I just don’t want to spend extra on a bit that does both. I could relieve it other ways though. Since my panels are big (56″ or so) I plane to remake my router table out of a big piece of mdf and reenforce it with straight flat wood strips and clamp it to my sawhorses. I don’t have a big router but will borrow one. If it isn’t variable speed I may purchase a speed control.
So, I’m open to thoughts, concerns and most importantly, who makes a good bit at a fair price. I have freuds, woodcraft type, grizzly, the yellow kind ??, but this is pretty critical for me.
I originally planed on flat panels, but since I have solid 3/4 inch panels I figure that it would look better. If I wanted flat panels I should have used plywood I guess. Raised panels will look awsome though.
Thanks in advance!
Replies
Andrew,
There are three methods for cutting raised panels in the Dec. issue of FWW. I cut mine on the TS using my tenon jig. I ended up relieving the back side of the panel to keep the raised panel more flush with the rails and stiles.
I have used raised pannel bits from Jesada. Was very pleased with them. Slower for the larger bits to reduce burn. Good luck.
Freud have a good selection of profiles for raising the panel and shaping the rails and stiles... I've been using one of their sets for almost 3 years now; expensive but well worth it.
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Andrew ,
You may want to re think the thickness of your panel stock . If you are using 3/4" stock for the door frame , then as posted above the face of your panels will be proud of the face of the frames . This can later cause several issues to deal with. Such as , detailing the door edge on the router table you will be riding on the panel face , also if you wanted to run the doors through a wide belt sander it wouldn't work out , even if you wanted to bore euro hinge holes that face sticking out could make things more difficult for you .Those are some rather large panels , much raised panel stock is surfaced thinner somewhere closer to between 1/2 " and 5/8" , by doing so this will reduce much of the weight. Another thought would be to make 2 panels separated by a rail on each door . This will make the panel size more easily manageable and should be easier to create defect free panels . The cut you would be asking the router bit to make in the thicker stock may be too big to bite .
good luck dusty
I use a table saw to cut raised panels. Cut end grain first to hide tear-out. I once made 2 cabinet doors 6'-8" in one piece not having actually seen the 'wood in motion' phenomenom before. Now when I make raised panel doors I limit the individual panels to 42" and stack them up as in shutters with a rail separator.
Cherry burns quite eaisly. If you don't have many to make use a hand plane. I used a table saw to make my first set and they still look great.
Andrew,
If you haven't checked them out already, go to MLCS and look at their panel-reaising bits. I have two set from them and have been very satisfied with them. I just completed a set of six red oak doors and had no burning across the end grain.
I also purchased from MLCS a back-cutting bit for $18 to relieve the back of the panels. This makes the 3/4" panel flush with both the front and back of the frame. You can get a raised panel bit with the back-cutter on it, but I preferred the seperate bit.
Regards,
Bill Arnold - Custom Woodcrafting
Food for Thought: The Ark was built by amateurs; the Titanic by professionals.
Edited 12/5/2004 10:17 am ET by BArnold
Some people turn their panels over, and use the front cutter (to 1/3 the depth or so) to relieve the back side.
Whatever technique you use, try to get the raised panel so that it does not extend beyond the rails and stiles in either the front or back. ________________________Charlie Plesums Austin, Texashttp://www.plesums.com/wood
Why hello all who've responded. I'm thankfull for the advice. I guess no one has a brand that I should stay away from.
Guess I should add that this bookcase has a 1 1/4 thick frame. No worries about the thickness.
I'm trying to envision cutting my panels standing up on a tablesaw. I'd have to shovel snow and move it outside. Then the wind would probably catch it and I'd really be screwed.
I can't remember if there was anything else I wanted to address...
Anyone use one of those router speed controls? The router I borrowed is 2 1/4 and one speed. Beats my smaller one though.
thanks again.
Andrew,
Without speed control you are going to burn the cherry on the end cuts as well as creating a safety issue spinning a large diameter profile bit at twice the recommended cutting rpm. You haven't said if you intend to shape the panels on a router table or freehand using an edge-guide. While it can be done without a router table, safely is another matter, I would urge you to use the table with a sliding hold-down clamp to reduce the chattering of the wood as it is being shaped.
Doug
If you are going to use that router at that speed take shallow passes and remove stock a little at a time. Start with the end grain as suggested and follow up with the sides last. Be extreamly careful! You need to respect physics here! Those are large and ungainly panels to cut on a shaper little less a makeshift ( no offense intended) table. A raised panel bit is quite unforgiving as well as the nature of cherry ( likes to explode sort of) if pushed too quickly! Don't fear it just respect all the dynamics involved. Best wishes
PS don't forget your hearing and eye protection!
Miami
No one has mentioned one obvious suggestion. - lol
Before you tackle some expensive cherry, make a couple of raised panels from something like birch or fir. When (not if, .......... when) you mess up, you can easily rip off the bad spot and try it again. This will give you a chance to focus on your technique without the added pressure worrying about butchering some expensive wood. - lol
I just got my third panel cutter - this one from Katana - and I'm definitely impressed with it. I'm making six curved top doors in oak and that cutter went thru them like butter.
How are you making your rails & stiles? If you're using a cope and stick cutter, you'll probably need to back cut your panels to get the 1/4" thickness you need on the panel edges.
Here's a question for all you router advocates. It has been suggested and rightly so especially with cherry, to take small bites to avoid burning the wood.
Do you rout all edges on all panels, starting with the end grain ends, before raising the bit to take the next pass?
I'm assuming the answer is yes.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I do all panels at each increment first paying care full attention to speed on the ends - especially with cherry. All with a tight inboard feather hold down and with an extended hold down out over the flat back. Good idea also to do a bit cutout, not so much for tear out but to keep the work as tight as possible to the follow fence. Otherwise I have been known to get what I call, a "wobble loop". An a over-depth dive into the panel.
If I can't remove it altogether I explain it as "an artifact of hand work, in combination with a rare and exquisite grain structure that should be highlighted".......or redo the panel :>No TS raised- Little call for straight Provincial edge panels. Maybe for reverse side of Shaker panels, if not just flat to start with.
Also, not much joy with vertical panels router bits.
Slowest speed on 3+ hp router with the biggest bits.
Whitesides and CMTs.
Use back cutter bits with production runs, custom raised panel hand planes or straight panels bits with thinner panels for "better stuff".John
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