Replies

1. 
   mapleman | Jan 23, 2008 12:41am | #1

   Colt,

   You will need to plane or sand the mahogany and then before finishing apply pore filler. Allow the pore filler to sit for a minute and then wipe off across the grain (not with). After it is completely dry, sand again. This will fill the pores in the wood and give a glass-like appearance.

   Lee

1. 
   coltfanru | Jan 23, 2008 12:59am | #2

   thanks for the advise. do you nave any pore fillers that you would recommend. this is my first time switching from pine to hardwood so I'm new to pore filling

1. 
   ak | Jan 23, 2008 02:07am | #3

   Jeff Jewitt describes an interesting process in FWW #177 where plaster of paris is used to make a home made grain filler. Haven't tried it yet, but I bet it works. I work with Mahogany a bit and I use a little trick my teacher taught me. After finish sanding leave all the dust on the piece. Then using a mix of equal parts of turpentine, oil varnish. and linseed oil, wipe this finish on across the grain. It uses the dust to act as a natural grain filler. After 10 minutes or so wipe off all the excess again across the grain then wipe off with the grain. Then you can apply your top coat whether it be more of the varnish mixture or shellac. What are you making?

   Adam

2. 
   mapleman | Jan 23, 2008 03:09am | #4

   One brand that comes to mind is Pore-O-Pac. Comes in a limited number of colors.

   Along the lines of what TK is suggesting (but a little easier) is this tip from Frank Pollaro in FWW #117:

    

    

   
1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 23, 2008 06:10am | #6

   Pore O Pac is made by Behlen.  It does come in a few colors, but I buy the "natural" which is a light beige and add pigment to tint it myself.  On mahogany, I use about 2 parts of Burnt Umber to 1 part Burnt Sienna.  Increase the proportion of Burnt Sienna for a redder look.  I either use dry pigment--fresco colors--or artists oil paint, or Japan Colors. 

2. 
   ak | Jan 23, 2008 07:26am | #7

   Mapleman,

   Good tip. It does seem less labour intensive. I think I'll try that on my next Mahogany table.

   Adam

2. 
   Ronaway | Jan 23, 2008 06:04am | #5

   When you stain open grained woods the open part of the grain will take quite dark. I use Famowood grain filler that has been reduced with water to a creamy consistency and then I tint it with acrylic paint to the color that I think the stain would show in these open grained areas. I use terri cloth to apply this product (pieces of old towels) On flat surfaces I just let it dry and sand it back flat, but on profiles I let it sit for just a bit and then wipe off the excess with a damp rag. This material will also take on more color when you stain so it enhances the overall color. If you have an unnatural color in the pores that might look worse than having a finish that is not smooth.

   Ron

   If you're too open minded your brains will fall out.
3. 
   creekwood | Jan 23, 2008 02:54pm | #8

   See the other post concerning mahogany. You may have one of the OTHER mahoganys. If the clock was made from Honduras mahogany, it will surely work and look differently.

   Jerry