Replies

1. 
   BG | Jul 04, 2002 06:11pm | #1

   Of course the best thing would be to keep it at my house (haha)  car wax..the good stuff works for me and my cheap tools

2. 
   forestgirl | Jul 04, 2002 06:22pm | #2

   Oh Jim, you lucky dog you!  Many of us use paste wax, though personally I'd not recommend car wax per se but rather a good furniture wax such as Johnson's or Minwax, or there's a bowling alley wax out there (don't remember the specific name).  Some of us use the specialized spray treatments such as Boeshield or TopCoat.  You'll get lots of input on this one, and a few cranky guys who tell you to do a search (just ignore them :-)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 04, 2002 06:35pm | #3

   Jim don't listen to BG he doesn't know what he is talking about. You should keep it at my place instead.

   But if that is not a option than as BG said a good car wax is all I use also.

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

4. 
   TKanzler | Jul 04, 2002 07:24pm | #4

   Jim

   For what it's worth, I didn't like the brand new look and feel of the Unisaw; the surface finish was too rough.  I sanded it down (by hand) to knock off the high spots, and then used Johnson's paste wax.  Smooth as a baby's butt now.

    

   Be seeing you...

5. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 04, 2002 07:50pm | #5

   Jim,

   I use three things to maintain my cast-iron work surfaces. The first being Dry Coat, the second being Wax and the last is Talc (baby powder unscented) all work just fine. Oh then there is just dust (saw), I leave it on.

   View Image

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 05, 2002 07:07am | #7

   The talc thing is raising a vague, vague memory.  There are some other uses for talc in woodworking -- can anyone re-iterate here.  I can't remember (too much good food for the 4th!).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   sschefer | Jul 05, 2002 08:58am | #8

   Talc does little more than absorb moisture. Wax keeps moisture out by semi-sealing the surface and acting as a repelant. Talc will abosorb moisture before it gets to the metal if it is completely covering the surface. It works well in conjunction with wax if you are not using the equipment or storing it for short periods of time. Talc can also be used as a surface lubricant on metals since its composition is such that it acts like millions of tiny ball bearings.

   Steve - in Northern California

   Edited 7/5/2002 2:06:04 AM ET by Steve Schefer

6. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 04, 2002 11:37pm | #6

   I think the best thing is a good furniture paste wax. Minwax, TreWax, Johnson, Butchers, all are good.

   I would not use any automotive product. They frequently contain silicone and most contain water to make them easier to spread. Neither are good things to put on your cast iron tabletop.

1. 
   maddylou | Jul 05, 2002 04:34pm | #9

   Just read your reply about keeping the table saw top nice and shiney.  You said that silicone is not good for it.  Why?  I have used it for years and have not seen any problem.  Please educate me.  Thanks.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 05, 2002 04:54pm | #10

   Silicone frequently causes finishing problems with lacquer and varnish finishes. There are no benefits to silicone as a rust preventer or preservative for cast iron, so it is better to stay away from it.

1. 
   maddylou | Jul 05, 2002 07:14pm | #11

   Thanks.  I WILL change my ways!

1. 
   DelDollens | Jul 05, 2002 10:35pm | #12

   Does anyone know if TopCoat uses any silicone product?  I have been using this for about 2 years now and I am fairly satisfied with it.  The only negative is thatit doesn't last long.  Living in Missouri, where it is hot and humid during the summer, I try to make it a point to spray down each machine before I go on a trip.  This becomes a pain because I travel a lot.  I was gone for a month one time and I came back to an ever so slight layer of rust on my table saw...I almost cried. :(

   Does wax last longer?  Any effects on finishing product if wax is used?

2. 
   JRMCarpentry | Jul 06, 2002 01:53pm | #13

   thanks to all for your responses.  I to sanded the surface as well as having to file all the edges(because of burs) and got it soooo sweet.  I am using Johnsons paste wax, but thought I had read a previous thread that had some people concerned about getting residue on wood and causing possible finishing problems down the road.  I could not find the thread again.  To Joe Fusco, I used to work for a guy with a PM66 and at the end of the day we would get in the cabinet of the saw, get out some saw dust, cover the top with about an 1/8 inch, then cover it with a piece of 1/4 inch plywood.  Again thanks to all.  Oh, sorry I think Iwill store it at my shop!

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 06, 2002 04:00pm | #14

   Jim,

   I have a PM66 and after a days use I don't have to go into the cabinet to get the saw dust, there's plenty on top already ;-).Also, I posted that I use Dry Coat which I do, but to spray on my blades. I use Top Coat for my cast iron tops and it doesn't contain any silicone. Sorry for any confusion that may have caused.

   View Image

4. 
   JRMCarpentry | Jul 07, 2002 07:37pm | #17

   Joe,

   Thanks for the response.  I have been wondering about Top Coat.  The manual that came with the saw has Delta suggesting that you rub the top down with 0000 steel wool and WD40, degrease the top and finish with Top Coat.  I don't think I want WD40 anywhere near my saw top.

   By the way, I've always admired your pretty amazing grasp of Trig.  I do mostly custom cabinetry and purpose built furniture(entertainment centers, executive desks etc.) but I also do curved stair work.  I find the actual building pretty straightforward but the math can be a struggle.

   thanks again, Jim

5. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jul 07, 2002 08:33pm | #18

   Jim,

   Sounds like we do pretty much the same thing. . .;-)The 4"O" steel wool and WD40 is (I guess) to remove any residue left on the top. This is the first step towards getting the top ready for use.I use Formula 409 as a de-greaser (makes a pretty good blade cleaner too) to remove any "stuff" on the top of may saw and then I wide everything down with denatured alcohol before I apply a new coat of TopCoat.

   View Image

6. 
   forestgirl | Jul 06, 2002 07:25pm | #15

   The main concern I've seen expressed about wax involved waxes with silicone -- e.g., car waxes.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

7. 
   dhpascoe | Jul 07, 2002 07:09pm | #16

   Living in Florida, sweaty hands are my  biggest problem. Wax is no help whatever. I keep a towel nearby for hands, but then it drips off my nose! Ah, life is a bit...ah, beach!

   When the top gets so ugly that I can't stand it anymore, I get out the sandpaper and polishing compound. Don't know of anything else to do.

   Dave

8. 
   bszydlo | Jul 07, 2002 11:20pm | #19

   Dave, what grit of sandpaper and type of polishing compound do you use?  Thanks, Bill

7. 
   SawdustSteve | Jul 08, 2002 05:28am | #20

   Let's see....  Step 1... Degrease

   Step 2  Use a FINE file to remove any sharp edges.  Don't go crazy here.  Just make sure there are no sharp edges.

   Step 3  Sand the top... Use WD-40 as your lubricant and 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a block of wood with a layer of felt.  I scrub North to south, then east to west, NE to SW, and finally SE to NW .  Wipe the table top clean.

   Step 4  repeat with 200 or 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper and clean off

   Step 5  Repeat with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and clean off

   Step 6   Use  0000 steel wool and paste wax to finish the surface.  I usually apply it in a circular pattern.  Let it dry and buff it with an old t-shirt.  I like Johnsons Paste wax, but ANY good paste wax will work as long as it DOES NOT contain any silicon.

   Step 6a    Repeat just then WAX part every 2 or 3 weeks or as needed as dictated by your work schedule or high humidity weather

   Step 7... Pour a cold glass of your favorite beverage and enjoy your work.

      No secret, just some plain old elbow grease.

        SawdustSteve...     in hot muggy New York

8. 
   jerrycatz | Jul 08, 2002 03:59pm | #21

   FYI -

   I accidentally left a small piece of PT lumber on the table saw on evening.  The next moring, it left a rust stain, even though I re-coat the top with wax every month. 

9. 
   user-492363 | Jul 08, 2002 04:28pm | #22

   From the factory I cleaned the top with mineral spirits & 0000 steel wool to remove the grease. Monday is my designated tool maintenance day. I apply Johnson's paste wax with 0000 steel wool. If any stains rust etc get on it I just go over it lightly with the random orbit sander with 400 sanding pad to polish it back to new. Keep the sander moving. Johnson's contains no silicon. Delta recommends a weekly waxing of the table ane fence. Have fun, Jim