Replies

1. 
   smslaw | Dec 05, 2008 06:16pm | #1

   Assuming you are using a machine to plane, one advantage to thickness planing first is that you can cut off any snipe. Another is that if you plane every piece at the same time, each will be exactly the same thickness.

2. 
   bones | Dec 05, 2008 06:30pm | #2

   IMHO, get rough let it set in the environment where it will be used (your shop) for a while to let the movement settle down, cut to aproximate dimensions and let set and then final dimension.  You mention a laundry room.  If that area is like mine it will experience humidity swings due to the dryer/washer, so movement could be an issue, but if the wood is in good shape and sealed properly it should be ok.  If you can use QS on rails & stiles to minimise issues.  I'm assuming by your question you have the equipment to bring the stock from rough to finish.  I think to bring in already finished to dimension would be a mistake.  Thats just my 2cw. 

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
3. 
   SantaFeTom | Dec 05, 2008 07:07pm | #3

   I can't tell if you will resaw thicker lumber to get to S4S but I would do things in the following order. 1) Rough resaw to thickness and allow plenty of extra for warp and twist. 2) Rough cut to width. 3) Allow to acclimate. 4) Rough cut to length. 5) Flatten and straighten.  6) mill to thickness. 7) Cut to final dimensions. 8) assemble as quickly as possible because the wood will probably still try to warp and twist.

4. 
   photonut | Dec 05, 2008 08:50pm | #4

   I always buy rough stock. S4S is too expensive and is rarely flat when you use it anyway (like you've already experienced), requiring more milling which usually makes it too thin.

   I buy it rough and let it acclimate. Once I start working with it, I complete the woodworking of the project quickly. Let it acclimate for a few days and then apply finish. Woodworking joinery is designed with wood movement in mind. Mortise and tenon, dadoes, rail and stile doors, etc. all keep wood from warping while allowing expansion and contraction.

   I cut rough stock to length first, leaving it long to square things up after it is dimensioned. From there, there are several factors, such as the max size your jointer and planer can handle and what the width of the pieces you are trying to get from each piece of stock. Someone mentioned snipe, and it can be a factor too. How straight the stock is can determine some things.

   If a piece is cupped or twisted, you will get the best yield by cutting it into the smallest pieces of the project if you rough cut to length and width first. I make rails and stiles from these pieces. Since they are narrow, future wood movement shouldn't be much. Hopefully, they have already moved as much as they are going to.

   I make panels from the flattest stock in the pile. If they have been through the kiln, shipped across country, acclimated to the climate of the supplier, and then acclimated to the climate in your shop, and are still pretty flat, then they are pretty stable and should stay flat.

   Be very careful ripping rough stock on a table saw, since it won't sit flat, it can bind the blade and cause kick back. Use a band saw if you have one.

   The rest is mostly common sense. Other than dealing with snipe, there is no real reason to work with stock that is longer or wider than you need. It is much easier to face joint shorter boards.

   Wow, that's a long post.

5. 
   WillowRay | Dec 05, 2008 10:17pm | #5

   Hmmm...

    

   If you're expecting a lot of movement, could you make the face frame from maple plywood and use an edgeband?

   Just a suggestion - don't laugh.

    

    

    

1. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 06, 2008 07:49pm | #6

   Just a suggestion - don't laugh.

   Hard to beat Veneered ply with edge banding for storage Etc. cabinets for home use.

   My experience anyway. And the cost is usually less.

   Not taking anything away from solid wood though. AND I will admit that I have had, on occasion,  ply curl a bit. Not a warp but a curl that can usually be worked around.

6. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 08, 2008 12:54am | #7

   Greg

   I always work with rough lumber, as I mill most of my own lumber from the log. Here's what I do, in order.

   • Allow wood to acclimate to your shop.  Several weeks to a month is preferred.  The longer the better.  Equilibrium is your goal.
   • Flatten the stock, and plane it to a thickness about 1/8" thicker than you plan to use. 
   • Re-sticker the lumber, and allow it to re-acclimate.  Once again, equilibrium is your goal.
   • Re-flatten, if necessary, and mill stock to final dimensions.
   • Build your project, and finish plane or sand.

   This system has worked well for me for a long time.

   Jeff

7. 
   philip_r | Dec 08, 2008 08:00pm | #8

   I'm just going to answer your question and assume you have everything else under control.

   "...Is it better to get the rough lumber to S4S and then cut it to the various component sizes or rough cut the lumber to component size and then S4S? ..."

   • A 1/4" twist, on an 8' board requires a lot of jointing to remove... not to mention the material waste
   • The weight of a long board will apply downward forces (gravity).  This weight will lessen the effect of the twist... therefore, you will not end up with a truly flat board
   • Every time you cut a board, you will release tension in the grain.  This tension can cause the board to cup, bend and twist

   I could go on...  but I'll just say that it is typically better to rough-cut the lumber, to approximate length, and then S4S.  This is true, regardless of the size of your jointer (mine is 10" by 84").  Smaller boards allow you to focus "your" downward pressure on the outfeed side of your jointer.  Assuming proper setup and technique, this will minimize the downward pressure on the infeed side (that darn gravity), thus creating a flat board and minimizing your waste.

    

   Remember to account for things like snipe (also lessened and/or eliminated by the reduction of "gravity"), squaring the board, ripping to width and the kerf of your blade. etc.

    

   Cheers,

   T

1. 
   GW52 | Dec 08, 2008 09:32pm | #9

   Thanks for all of the information.

   Greg

8. 
   BrianDerr | Dec 09, 2008 08:15am | #10

   To get straight and true pieces, you want to rough cut, wait at least a couple days (preferrably a week or more), and then joint and plane to final dimensions. It doesn't hurt to acclimate even before the rough cuts, but it's between these and the finish milling that most of the 'action' takes place. Just for face frames, I definately would be tempted to plane once, rough cut the the different widths I want and later only final mill the widths by jointing then ripping.

   Brian

9. 
   frenchy | Dec 09, 2008 04:57pm | #11

   I'm surprised no one has told you the # 1 thing to do.. test the moisture content.. a couple of months may not be enough if the wood wasn't properly dried in the first place. Maple once dry is reasonably stable (unlike other woods like Elm and Hickory etc.)

     But maple doesn't dry as fast as many other woods and thus you are more likely to have too high a moisture content..