Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 21, 2004 08:20pm | #1

   What are you meaning by "fixtures?"  Are we talking jigs and such?  Baltic Birch plywood, very stable and nice surfaces.  If I've mis-read, I apologize.

   Poplar is a nice wood if you're going to finish using paint especially.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   bones | Feb 22, 2004 12:25am | #2

   Sorry I was not very clear.  I mean jig's, fixtures, cabitnets(shop use), fences etc.  I'm building my shop out and was wondering what people prefer. I have seen some nice pieces for shop use, and want to do something nice. I have thought of baltic birch for the cabinet bases, and poplar for the face frame due to cost.

   I am close to a good supplier of hardwoods & ply. Would ash, hard maple, or oak be good for these types of use, or is it overkill, and should mdf & pine be used? Does that help clarify my question?

1. 
   BG | Feb 22, 2004 12:59am | #3

   Bones,

   I just figure my needs will evolve over time and so will the shop.  For the most part initially pine, birch ply and poplar were fine.  Some of those pieces I have disassembled and they been replaced with different designs and better quality construction materials. 

   My thought is to start cheaply, refine, grow, redesign and rebuild...

2. 
   forestgirl | Feb 22, 2004 02:31am | #4

   For jigs and fixtures, I think your best bet is BB plywood, with occasional MDF or MDO thrown in, but the BB ply is going to be the most stable for sleds and such.  I live in a damp environment, and all my jigs are made from the BB so that they're less impacted by humidity.  I have a couple of sleds that were built by someone else, laminate on top of particle board.  We'll see how well they work....

   For cabinets, whatever you can afford!  If I could do it, I'd have maple cabinets, but the $$s just not there.  The tops of work surfaces would still be plywood, MDF, or either of those covered with Masonite, just because then they could be replaced when they get beat up.

   Light color for the cabinets is, IMO, preferable -- don't like anything soaking up light in the shop.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

1. 
   bones | Feb 22, 2004 02:41am | #5

   Thanks for the input.

3. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 22, 2004 11:10pm | #7

   Almost all my cabinets and shelves are built of hardwood scrap.  I save every cutoff over 18" and edge glue them to make panels and "boards". I mix species and like the multicolored look. It's not really a Q of money, but of conservation. The little stuff and the softwood goes to the BBQ or the fireplace.

2. 
   Alan | Feb 23, 2004 02:48am | #9

   forestgirl,

   Oh noooo!  Not the fixture/jig business again.

   Alan

2. 
   DennisS | Feb 22, 2004 06:54am | #6

   Hey Bones -

   Being the original ceapskate and trying to find ways to save money, I recently bought a dozen or so #2 DF (Doug Fir) 2x6's at my local lumber yard. Managed to cherry pick through the bunch to find some that had the fewest knots. Jointed one edge and ripped many 1 1/2" lengths off each board. Then chopped out the knots and other bad spots to produce some rather nice quarter sawn doug fir lumber to build a top for a cabinet that's going in one corner of the shop. The cut-offs from most of these lengths will yield enough lumber to further mill some 3/4 x 1 1/2 stuff for a face frame for the cabinet.

   For the box I have available locally what's called 'satin ply' (essentially AC fir plywood) that makes for a great cabinet box. As long as you get it cut up and into a cabinet before it warps when standing in the plywood storage rack! (grin).

   I plan on spraying the cabinet face with white semi-gloss lacquer so whatever wood it is isn't really an issue with me. I'm on Forrest Girl's team with regard to keeping things as light (white) as possible for illumination purposes. That was brought home to me when I started putting up the (white) unfaced batt insulation in the shop. What a difference from the back side of the exterior OSB sheathing! Unfortunately with the price of 1/2" AC plywood I had to go with wafer board (OSB) but .... all life is a compromise. It will also get painted (white) just's soon's I'm able.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

3. 
   PlaneWood | Feb 23, 2004 12:01am | #8

   Scraps left over from the 'good' jobs!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood