Replies

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Aug 27, 2009 09:47pm | #1

   I'm not sure where to find the formula, but today Rockler sells the Maloof finish pre-mixed.

   Bruce

   "A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
1. 
   TberryVa | Aug 27, 2009 10:01pm | #2

   Thanks Bruce..I'll check out Rockler

   Dick

    

    

1. 
   Domer | Aug 27, 2009 10:45pm | #3

   I remember reading that Sam Maloof didn't mix his own after Rockler started making it but used Rockler's.Domer

1. 
   Gretchen | Aug 28, 2009 03:09pm | #5

   The cynic in me also says he didn't pay for it either!  ;o)

   It's easy enough to mix yourself.Gretchen

1. 
   Domer | Aug 28, 2009 04:39pm | #6

   I am sure that not only did Sam Maloof not pay for the finish but almost certainly he got paid for the use of his name.But that is beside the point. If you want to take the time and make your own, great. But if you don't want to take the time to make sure you have the correct ingredients and mix it yourself, the ready made is an option.And if Sam Maloof thought it was good enough, most likely it would be good enough for most of us.I use the General Finish wiping poly and oil finish which is neither the hand mixed finish nor Sam Maloof's ready made.So there are lots of ways to get the job done.Domer

2. 
   Gretchen | Aug 28, 2009 06:26pm | #8

   Don't forget to keep a sense of humor. I did add a smiley face.

   And I first made it and used it 50+ years ago. It ain't exactly rocket science. ;o)Gretchen

3. 
   TberryVa | Aug 30, 2009 03:38pm | #9

   Thanks Everyone,

      Howie,  that is exactly the info I was looking for, I had the receipt but not the method.

2. 
   roc | Aug 28, 2009 07:08am | #4

   If you have his book or go to the library it is on page 68 and on 120 in his first book S.M. Woodworker.

   also see

   FWW #25 Nov/Dec p 54

   If that isn't the one search under his name and read the general biographical interviews he mentions the finish a couple of other times.

   PS: the varnish is urethane but you probably know that

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/28/2009 12:09 am by roc

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 28, 2009 05:46pm | #7

   That mixture has been long known as an "oil/varnish" mixture. It was probably first publicized in the 1960's when Watco came out with their then "magic" finish. Here is something I found that sort of summarizes the whole "Maloof Finish" issue.

   The Sam Maloof Finish Recipe

   The Sam Maloof finish consists of two finishes: A varnish/oil mixure followed by an oil/varnish/beeswax mixture. The first mixture is applied until you are satisfied with the build-up. Then you apply the second finish, which does require some elbow grease! You can purchase the finish pre-mixed from Rockler, or you can mix your own. I provide two Mixture 1 recipes. Mixture 1 Version 1 is the traditional Sam Maloof finish. It takes a while to dry--leave at least 24 hours between coats. Mixture 1 Version 2 is an oft-used finish that provides a little better penetration, is easier to apply, and dries faster.

   Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 1)
   Mix equal parts of the following:
   - Boiled Linseed Oil
   - Raw Tung oil (not Waterlox, Dalys, or other tung oils containing resin additives)
   - Semi-Gloss urethane varnish

   Mixture 1 Recipe (Version 2)
   Mix equal parts of the following:
   - Thinner. Use paint thinner, mineral spirits, or naphtha. Feel free to use a bit less thinner and more varnish or oil. The thinner is present to help the finish penetrate the pores of the wood, rather than lay on the surface.
   - Varnish. Virtually any quality varnish will do. I prefer a standard oil varnish rather than a fast drying varnish.
   - Oil. Use either boiled linseed oil or raw tung oil. Again, do not use Waterlox, Daly's, or other tung oils that have added resins.

   Mixture 2 Recipe
   Mix 2 handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture in a double-boiler on an electric hotplate just until the wax melts. Due to the volatile nature of the ingredients, brew your mixture outdoors. When cooled, the mixture should have the consistency of heavy cream.

   General Application
   Apply three to four coats of Mixture 1. Let oil sit on surface for 5-10 minutes. Optionally, sand mixture into wood using 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper. Remove excess oil with a clean cloth/paper towel. Allow at least 24 hours drying time between each coat. Apply two to three coats of Mixture 2. Rub Mixture 2 into the surface vigorously.

   Howie.........
1. 
   spotcheck | Aug 30, 2009 09:28pm | #10

   Yep.  Excellent finish, and no worries about dust getting trapped.  I realize there are  people that sneer at this finish, but it works for me and is easily renewable if you ever need to.

   I happen to use turp for the thinner.  First coat has more thinner than 1/3 to improve penetration.  Actual proportions may vary - this is very forgiving - you can't screw it up - make it thicker or thinner as you like.  Flood it on.  Wait till it starts to set up (my time frame is 20 min +/-) wipe it all off.  Usually 3 coats, plus a 4th on any surfaces that might get wear.

   Lesson learned the hard way:  This stuff is sneaky - it waits until you are sure you're done wiping, and then when you go to bed that night it oozes out of the joints and hardens.  I wipe everything twice, then go after all the joints with compressed air, using a 3/8" dowel that was shapened in a pencil sharpener and is wrapped with a cotton rag. 

1. 
   gofigure57 | Aug 31, 2009 06:47pm | #11

   Spot .

   I'm with you I like the stuff , have been using it for quite some time now.  For me I do as the can says for the prep which is to sand to 400 grit and burnish with cotton rag befor applying. 

   I have used it for hand scraped surfaces with the same great results, Why do some sneer , would like to know? On table tops I will use a wipe on poly or Duravar by ML Campbell.

   I was in Rockler yesterday and noticed they raised the price per qt to 29.99. I understand Sam has passed (Bless his soul)  And his work work has probably gone up in price but 29.99 per qt seems excessive.  Are the ingredients that expensive?  Might be time to follow Howards' post for the recipes.  Where dose one find raw tung oil?

   Tom. 

    

   Edited 8/31/2009 11:48 am ET by gofigure57

1. 
   spotcheck | Aug 31, 2009 09:46pm | #12

   I've always mixed my own - turp, spar varnish, and boiled linseed.

2. 
   wilkie2017 | Oct 22, 2016 03:53pm | #13

   Why sneer?

   HaHa - this is an old thread but I will reply anyway.  It's an old thread and an old recipe, but the Sam Maloof recipe is the best for many reasons.

   1. it's idiot-proof.  Wipe it on, wipe it off. Throw sawdust on it,  fine.  Miss a glue spot? - sand through it and re-wipe, fine.

   2. it's renewable

   3. it's beautiful (when done properly).

   4. it's affordable.  even with the ridiculous prices today ($18/gallon for mineral spirits), you can make it for around $40/gallon.

   A couple tips I don't think were mentioned above.  If they were, my apologies.

   1. Tung oil is expensive.  100% pure raw tung oil only.  Buy it online and have it shipped.  Rockler is the only retail place I have found it, too much $$$ there.

   2. Don't use Tung Oil in the first mixture, only the second.  Use Boiled Linseed Oil as a substitute everywhere else.

   3. Buy raw beeswax at a Farmer's Market if possible.

   And a previous post asks, "Why do they sneer?" Answer:  Because they are ignorant or stupid or both.  Sam Maloof is the finest pure woodworker that ever lived.  It's been a few years since he died, and there's still a huge wait list to pay $40,000 for one of his rockers that is made by one of his apprentices.