Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 07, 2009 11:13pm | #1

   Blum makes one they call a zero-protrusion hinge.  

   http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Cabinet%20Hinges/CatID/Cabinet%20Hinges%2C%20Blum%26%23174%3B%20Concealed/SubCatID/Zero%20Protrusion

1. 
   Woodman41 | Jan 08, 2009 01:10am | #2

   thanks, wwhardware is my usual supplier and I was looking at this one i their catalog, but I don't think I have the clearance for the door to open to 155 degrees in order to get the clearance I need.

   This is the other one that caught my eye, but I think I might have the same issue with the door having to swing out well beyond 110 degrees, which is about all I have to spare.

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 08, 2009 05:24am | #3

   Click on the Installation button on the link I cited.   I'm reading it to say that the door has zero protrusion at a ninety degree opening. 

1. 
   Woodman41 | Jan 08, 2009 06:26am | #4

   yeah you are correct, however it also states that this hinge is for a minimum 3/8" overlay door and I need a hinge for a full inset application.

2. 
   oldusty | Jan 08, 2009 06:19pm | #5

      Woodman ,

               I know you said concealed but , how about a butt hinge ?

            I use the Euro hinges on flush inset doors quite a bit but they can't swing wide enough to go out of the opening like you want .

              Sliding roll out trays behind flush inset doors is not done much unless the tray is as you said built out at least on one side to allow the clearance needed , this is the most obvious way for you in this application .Unless the opening is  too narrow to lose the space , perhaps drawers would be more efficient instead of rollout trays .

       You know drawers behind doors (roll out trays) are not wheel chair accessible for the most part and cost more to build then just drawers .

         regards      dusty

1. 
   Woodman41 | Jan 09, 2009 04:41am | #6

   Thanks Dusty.In the back of my mind I have been keeping the butt hinge option open. RE the trays behind doors and ADA compliance, this is for my own house so no need to worry about that. My wife wants trays because they are behind a sandblasted narrow reed glass door and she wants the horizontal contrast of the walnut edging on the trays to be visible through the glass (actually even though it's more work for me, she does have a good eye for these things).Also, the slide out trays are necessary because the cabinet (a built in) is 36" deep.

   Edited 1/8/2009 8:42 pm ET by Woodman41

1. 
   Shoemaker1 | Jan 11, 2009 09:08pm | #7

   Interesting piece I want to see a finished pic.
   I made some hinges for my boat house doors and although on a different scale, the principle applies. Buy the way a friend said it couldn't be done, cost him a dozen beer.I used a "T" hinge and I just bent the long leg back about 1/2 way and put the hinge pin out on the edge of the overlay door. it still looks like a hinge pin but its centre of axis swings the door out of the way at 90 degrees and you could mortise into the back of the stile if needed, also I drilled another screw hole on the leg I bent closer to the hinge to help carry the offset load.I think LV sells a hinge you could modify, and some were I saw hinges that had no premade holes.Just sit down with a couple pieces of card board cut to the section you are working with and use a pin to represent the hinge centre, you will see how this works.I have also made these out of wood on a whiskey cabinet. The rails were made into part of the hinge and rode on brass pins let into the base and top or a side rail with an incorporated hinge buldge. Wonders if I have a pic?I could try and draw and can if you want?

1. 
   Woodman41 | Jan 11, 2009 11:56pm | #8

   Thanks, I think I've settled on a butt hinge for function and aesthetic reasons. I'll post a pic of the piece when I'm done with it.