I need to make some pretty hefty legs for a project. The legs are made from 5 1/2 by 4 1/2 Doug Fir. There are some curves in the 5 12 part. I had hoped to make a template and use a long pattern bit from both th sides or on one side and then a long flush trim bit on the other side but I haven’t been able to find any bits with a cutting depth of over 2″. Anyone know of some longer bits or another way of cutting smooth consistent curves in big stock?
Thanks.
“Seen Better, done worse!”
Replies
You can make a template jig for the bandsaw just as easily as doing it for a router. The blade you use will depend on how aggressive the curve is but it should only require minimal smoothing. Long router bits are hard to find, expensive and require that you bandsaw so close to the line anyway that you might as well just get it cut right from the bandsaw.
I usually make a template and tape it to the stock, then cut with a band saw and use a pattern bit to clean up. . It works well and leaves me a pretty smooth surface. My band saw skills aren't good enough to cut pretty tight to a line and not have blade marks. 5 12 wide makes for a lot of smoothing! Solid stock so I can't do it in two pieces and glue up.
"Seen Better, done worse!"
Is the leg a glue-up or a solid from 6 x 6 stock?
You can use a template attached to the workpiece to cut it out on the bandsaw. Make the template and attach it to the bottom or your workpiece. Then, get a scrap the same thickness as your template and cut a 1/8"-deep notch in the end as wide as your blade. Position the notched scrap so that it straddles the bandsaw blade. Then, run turn on the bandsaw and run the template against the guide. I hope that's understandable. It's hard to describe and a picture would be really useful.
Here's one: http://www.woodcraft.com/Articles/Articles.aspx?articleid=410
and www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Now that sounds about right! I learn something new everyday. I will giv ehtat a try. Thanks everyone!
"Seen Better, done worse!"
Great reply! I use that!
I was trying to find a old link to a video that showed various jigs for a bandsaw and I cannot find it.. Dang......
Just for fun watch this..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXW55S4X9zo
And I think he has all of his fingers?
AND..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0ncqt8UVVc
AND..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upgykLS-kcM&feature=related
All free hand work!
Is this not FineWoodWorking?
Edited 12/6/2009 12:14 pm by WillGeorge
Will,The reindeer is an excellent demo. The idea behind it is to demonstrate what can be done with their blade stabilizer while also producing something memorable - a souvenir - quickly enough to not lose the audience's attention.That guy making wooden balls has too much free time.EDIT: TyposChris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com
and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com) - Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Edited 12/6/2009 12:30 pm by flairwoodworks
M,
The longest cutter I know is this 3" cutting-edge rascal:
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/3_86X1_2TC/2/63/two_flute_127mm_dia_x_75mm_cut_.html
However, the blurb says that its meant for honeycomb boards - that is, work which doesn't put a large load on the cutter. Also, it has no bearing of its own so needs to be used with a collar if its to follow a template.
The thing is, the slightest tip or tilt when routing along an edge will result in a dig-in or even a vaulting router! With a 3" cutting edge even the slightest error when hand-guiding the router may have horrible consequences.
I do use the 2" long version of the following CMT edge-following straight bit quite a lot; but in a router table unless the thickness of the workpiece is not too great. Accidental tilt of the router has less unpleasant effect with thinner work.
http://www.brimarc.com/products/CMT-Super-duty-Self-Guided-Trimming-Cutters-20936.htm
The other posts suggesting you employ a bandsaw are probably the "right" answer. Its what I do with very thick pieces that need a shape, although it then requres some hard work with a spokeshave to smooth-off the bandsawn edges down to the final shape. And then the sanding...............
Lataxe
Edited 12/4/2009 1:20 pm ET by Lataxe
Thanks, yeah I'm pretty committed to doing it all on the bandsaw. I'm actually pretty excited about it and learning a new technique. I should get to that part next week and I will let all know how it goes.
Thanks
Dana
"Seen Better, done worse!"
Never seen it in person, but I think large shapers can be outfitted with a straight (built-up) bit more than 3" tall and a matching diameter bearing. You'd have to make a template, attached with screws or a vacuum (would double sided tape hold well enough?). Might not be a machine you have, but perhaps within your geograhic area someone would offer to shape the legs at an hourly rate. The results should be ready for final smoothing off the shaper.
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