Lock-Rabbet for drawer sides with router table – what jig or technique??
My next “learning opportunity”. I’m building my first cabinet using “traditional kitchen cabinet” techniques (ala Tolpin). I’m trying my hand at “lock-rabbet” joints for the drawers using my router table. On my first drawer I had a bit of a problem when routing the sides (I.e. with the drawer side held vertically) on the router table. I wasn’t using any jig of any kind … a bit scary and a bit of a bust on the quality. The *slightest* unevenness between the router table and the router insert causes the drawer side to catch a bit and it shows in the joint. I’ve leveled the table as best I can with a straightedge and feeler gauge to about .001 – .002″ and it comes out “okay” but it’s still a little scary.
Any advice on technique / jigs would be greatly appreciated!
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There are several things you can try to improve the consistency of the cuts on vertical pieces:
1. taller fence for better vertical support,
2. vertical push block - an L-shaped push block that both keepts the stock against the fence and maintains the 90° to the table, while pushing the trailing edge of the stock, (or use a horizontal feather board without the push block),
3. cut the joint on wider stock, and then rip to the proper drawer width.
Routing vertical
The vertical piece can be easily be routed if you have a tenoning jig, provided your miter slot is close enough. But care must taken to avoid the cast iron with the router bit. ;-)
I think I found one on this forum ... is this what you mean?
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/joinery/lock-miter-router-bit
Thanks again
Chris's jig/push-block
I was thinking simpler, but the jig Chris made is nicer. If you think 4" sides were wobbly, you should watch people trying to cut LM joints on 3/4" slats for tool chest drwawers. ;-)
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