Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Sep 09, 2004 04:38pm | #1

   In my experience, any oil finish that dries without a film will give a nice satin sheen. To get a gloss sheen, you'd need a harder drying film like lacquer or poly, not considered nontoxic. Which is why mineral oil or another nontoxic oil is recommended, but I've seen polyurethane used on salad bowls before.

     You could buff by hand or chuck a buffing wheel in a drill.Good luck.

1. 
   EdKelle | Sep 09, 2004 05:30pm | #2

   Thanks, I'll see how it buffs out and post a pic when it is done tomorrow. The key to this whole thing is keeping with something non toxic since they will be used rather than displayed. It does seem to be improving with more coats, should have about 10 by the time it is done.

1. 
   Gretchen | Sep 09, 2004 08:23pm | #3

   If they are going to be used you might think about mineral oil.Gretchen

1. 
   EdKelle | Sep 09, 2004 09:04pm | #4

   Really? Even after putting on this Liberon? Will this buff out as well? And what kind of time should I allow between coats? I know that Mineral oil is really thick. I was thinking of Pure Tung oil that I have but someone told me that it never really dries.

   Yup, lots of questions, as I am learning as I'm going along.

   Thanks

   E

1. 
   jackplane | Sep 10, 2004 05:58pm | #5

   Pure tung oil will dry. Raw, not boiled, linseed oil will not dry.

2. 
   EdKelle | Sep 10, 2004 11:27pm | #6

   Thanks, so I guess then the guy was just trying to sell me this LIberon, because I told him I have pure tung oil.

   Is there any reason to choose Tung over Liberon? Will it buff up nicer?

   Well I have put on about 10 coats or so, it is really starting to get a show nice reflections in it, another two coats or so then I will buff it out.

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Sep 11, 2004 04:03pm | #7

   Ed,

   The Liberon oil finish is a danish oil. Danish oil is a blend of varnish and a drying oil (linseed, tung, safflower, etc.); it's not as durable as straight varnish and the added oil gives it a satin sheen. For a gloss finish, a gloss varnish is a better choice. But it's not a good idea to build a film with danish oil and then use varnish over it; danish oil is soft compared to varnish and can cause the varnish to crack.

   Paul

   Furniture Finish Wizard

4. 
   EdKelle | Sep 11, 2004 08:21pm | #9

   Thanks for the info. I think I would use varnish on future bowls that are not meant for use with food. I'd be a bit concerned about having it begin to flake off with use after contact with utensils. Actually I am interested in seeing how this Liberon stands up in the long term.

5. 
   Paul_Snyder | Sep 12, 2004 05:17pm | #13

   Ed,

   There's no more reason to believe varnish will flake off more than the danish oil you used; they adhere to the wood fibers in the same fashion and you're not using the wood as a cutting surface. Finishes flake off when they lose adhesion to the wood; water/moisture getting into the wood is usually the culprit (interior finishes). Varnish has better moisture excluding effectiveness (MEE) than danish oil and polyurethane varnish is better than the other types of varnish.

   Washing the bowls by hand is better than using the dishwasher; you can limit the exposure to water and heat. I think the danish oil will hold up well as long as you don't soak the bowls in water or put them in the dishwasher.

   As far as being safe for contact with food, Bob Flexner has an article on the subject at this link - Food-Safe Finishes - that explains why all modern wood finishes are non-hazardous.

   Paul

   Furniture Finish Wizard

6. 
   EdKelle | Sep 12, 2004 08:04pm | #14

   Thanks very much for the great input and the link. Yes I guess I had been overly concerned about it, and for the same reasons, from looking at what finishes are sold in catalogs and their non toxic labels.

   I will advise them to wash the bowls by hand and not to really soak them. Thanks

   E

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 11, 2004 05:30pm | #8

   Liberon Oil is an oil/varnish blend and, as some have said, will not result in a high gloss. It is intended as a penetrating finish that will be absorbed and leave the "look and feel" of the wood. If you want a gloss, you should be using a film finish. However, a film finish tends to flake off over time and little pieces of hard finish, while it won't make you sick, is not "good eats".

   Also, multiple coats of an oil varnish tends to lead to a soft, gummy finish because of the high oil content.

   All interior finishes are non-toxic when cured.

   Howie.........
1. 
   EdKelle | Sep 11, 2004 08:28pm | #10

   Thanks, yes I am noticing that after about multiple coats it does seem slightly sticky when trying to remove excess, and this was only after 3-4 minutes.

   So then I assume that all you really need is maybe 3-4 coats? But I did seem to notice more shine and depth afterwards.

   I think that Olive Garden and other restraunts have wooden bowls with a glossy finish, so I am going to assume these bowls do have some type of varnish applied. Maybe I will have to go check this out sometime.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 12, 2004 01:06am | #11

   Salad bowls used in resturants typically are coated with a polyester finish. It's a two part material that needs to be professionally applied.

   Howie.........

1. 
   EdKelle | Sep 12, 2004 03:04am | #12

   Thus ending any thought of doing that process. Thanks for the input.

3. 
   EdKelle | Sep 13, 2004 02:55am | #15

   Here are the bowls, the Liberon give then a nice sheen. Thanks for all the advice

   E

   
1. 
   RogerL | Sep 13, 2004 03:41am | #16

   Ed:

   I've been turning bowls for about 6 years and went through the same questions you did.  FWW had an article on food safe finishes probably in 1999.  If I use only a food oil I use walnut as it dries much better than mineral oil.  But now I use almost exclusively  a mixute of raw tung oil, boiled linseed oil and gloss polyurethane varnish, equal parts.  The key is to put on the first coat until it doesn't absorb any more, then wipe offf the excess.  Different woods need more depending on how porous the wood is.  I let it dry 12 to 24 hours and repeat the process until I like the shine, usually 3 coats works.  I rub it down with a piece of a brown paper bag between coats.  Weird but it works great to smooth the finish.  I've used Behlen's salad bowl finish.  I'ts like a wipe on varnish and leaves a nice gloss.  I used it on a curly maple platter that is now 5 years old and still looks great. but I prefer the more natural look of the varnish oil mix.

   I tell people they can put a wooden bowl in the dishwasher once...then they can go back to using Tupperwear!  I only rinse my bowls in luke warm water, I never let them soak.

   I like your bowls, very nice lines.  Consider a foot on your next set.  Richard Raffan's book on bowl design is very good.

   Roger

1. 
   EdKelle | Sep 13, 2004 04:19am | #17

   Thanks Roger. I have used the brown bag trick before, its amazing that a piece of paper works so well. yes I have his bowl design book also, too bad they did not make a video of him making bowls, I have his others. But Del Stubbs Video is good too.

   I agree about maybe using a foot next time. I didn't think I had enough depth to do that on this set because the blanks were only 2" thick, so I did a recesed chucking on the bottom. And unfortunately, I did make the bottom slightly too narrow, should have made it slightly wider for better balance. At least I am learning by doing. Have only done 6 bowls before and those were all from pieces of rough cherry, so I had more material to play with.

   This was for an order for someone and I used the only 2 blanks I had, so really no room for experimenting or mistakes. Paduak is a nice wood but I think tho open grain is probably not the best for a bowl to be used. Live and learn. That orange dust sure does get everywhere too.

   Thanks for the input, it is a big help

   E