Replies

1. 
   mike4244 | Jun 18, 2004 09:04pm | #1

   2x4,s or any scrap framing lumber is an excellent way to start turning. Cut out any knots, rip to same dimension of thickness ( 2x material rip to 1 1/2", 4x material leave 3 1/2" square. This is how I learned to turn. If you can turn reasonably good beads and coves with framing lumber you will be amazed how nice hardwood turns.I still turn framing lumber for experimental pieces. I recently turned a chess set, each piece was turned with scrap first until I got the design and tecnique down pat.

   I would reccomend a book by Richard Raffan, " A Foundation Course In Turning". This book helped me immensely.

   Good luck with your turning, Mike

1. 
   tallcorn | Jun 18, 2004 09:37pm | #2

   Is this the book you are refering to?

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0946819203/qid=1087583322/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl14/002-2398163-0610416?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

   Scott

1. 
   mike4244 | Jun 19, 2004 04:23pm | #5

   That's the book, don't know how I got the author wrong. I should have pulled the book from bookshelf and then posted.

   mike

2. 
   tonyb | Jun 18, 2004 11:33pm | #3

   Sorry I don't mean to steal the thread. but I need to ask.

   Mike how did you turn the knights???  I stated selling Chess boards and then they all want pieces.  Iv'e turned avrything except the knights.

   Thanks

   Tony

1. 
   mike4244 | Jun 19, 2004 04:41pm | #6

   Hopefully I will get a digital camera for fathers day, I dropped a couple dozen hints to kids. I tried carving the knights, not much success. Many turned knights have an offset ball top, tried it did not care for the look. Looked too much like bishop that was badly warped. Did not appear to resemble a knight. Then I decided to try my own version of a knight. Instead of a horses head I thought an armored head may look more natural. I turned the top portion to a cylinder about 11/16" in diameter by about 7/8"high. Then with a skew point cut shallow vee on 1/16" centers. Slightly rounded the top with a spindle gouge. So far this resembles armor plate but without the cutouts for eyes and mouth. Removed turning and with a cross slide vice on a drill press routed eye and mouth slots. I used an endmill in the chuck for this. A router bit 1/8" will do.The eye slots are about two thirds the length of the mouth slot. The slots do not have to be deep, maybe an 1/8" or so.If I do get a camera I'll try to post a pic of the chess table and pieces.

   mike

3. 
   PeteMoss | Jun 19, 2004 07:25pm | #7

   Mike,

   Thanks for the information. I will try some of the lumber out.

2. 
   mgumaer | Jun 18, 2004 11:41pm | #4

   petemoss,

   I was in your shoes not too long ago (probably still in them to some extent). Reading books is great, I have a couple of Richard Raffan's books which are helpful. But, even more than in other areas of woodworking, I think it helps to see how it's done. I would try to find a local club or maybe videos would offer a suitable substitute.

   The other thing I would add is that if you are unhappy with the results of your turning when working on pine, remember the material is less than ideal (if you're getting frustrated, try some better wood). Also, turners seem to do a lot of wet wood turning, the wood cuts easier and it is easier to find larger blocks to work with because they haven't checked/cracked while drying). Therefore, don't rule out "found" wood in your back yard, etc. I was lucky enough to find relatives with a camp not too far away that has two recently downed cherry trees. I can't tell you how much fun it is to work with that wood knowing that it didn't cost $4 a board foot, the blanks are as big as I care to make them and if I screw up, there is plenty more stock to work with about 1 hour's ride away. Good luck and have fun. Turning can be addictive.

   Matt

1. 
   PeteMoss | Jun 19, 2004 07:29pm | #8

   Matt,

   I have talked with some folks at the local woodturning club. I may look into joining it, but their next meeting isn't for 3 weeks. I do think that they would probably be the best resource I could find. Also,  I like the idea of just collecting some green scraps and going to it, so I will probably try that out also. Thanks guys.

1. 
   DennisS | Jun 20, 2004 09:25am | #9

   Turning green wood is a great way to start. No dust to speak of, great shower of ribbon shavings coming off the piece like peeling an apple. (protect the lathe bed from the water!). But remember those green pieces will change shape dramatically as they dry out. Turn a bowl, for instance, at least an inch thick to let it season, then go back and finish turn it. Eliminate the pith from the log - it almost always gauranteed to split or crack.

   ...........

   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.

   Dennis

3. 
   Pondfish | Jun 21, 2004 03:46pm | #10

   Hi,

   I've recently started turning, and I can tell you what worked for me.  I read Conover's book, but despite how good he is, my first turning attempts were awful. 

   I watched Raffen's video, and it made a huge difference.  The major thing I was missing was keeping the tool bevel resting on the wood.

   Turning green wood can be fun, and if you have some fresh logs to try it on, go for it.  It will be good practice, but the best practice comes from working cry lumber (imho).

   I haven't done much with bowls or boxes yet, most of my early work has been spindle type work.  After a few weeks I've figured out how to use a skew chisel to shape a smooth taper that needs little sanding, and without catches.  I've also become accustomed to using one hand to reduce chattering. No video, book or club helped me learn that--it came from practice.

   Be sure you have a good sharpening system ready before you start--sharp tools are a must.

   Good luck,

   Paul in TF

   https://home.comcast.net/~paulchapko

1. 
   Froed | Jun 23, 2004 07:33pm | #12

   One hand with a skew chisel?  That sounds kinda scary, could you elaborate?

1. 
   Pondfish | Jun 23, 2004 09:12pm | #13

   I hold the skew chisel around the top of the handle with my thumb to steady the blade.  The other hand is holding the spindle to keep it from chattering; I can use the thumb on the "spindle" hand to steady the side of the skew chisel, "pushing" the chisel along (so the thumb is on the high side of the chisel).  I find I can get very smooth tapers this way, and it is quite safe as long as the skew chisel bevel is riding along the workpiece (which is what you should be doing).

1. 
   Froed | Jun 24, 2004 02:37pm | #14

   Thanks Paul, that makes more sense.

4. 
   Napie | Jun 21, 2004 09:44pm | #11

   There is nothing like the firewood pile for learning both faceplate and spindle turning.  Green wood is a blast to turn, you can really judge if the bevel is rubbing by how long a shaving you can shoot over your head!  Raffen's books are the best and his videos are even better, he is very practical in his approach to the craft.