Replies

1. 
   BG | Sep 13, 2004 02:11pm | #1

   Les,

   I haven't joined the ranks of anything in woodworking yet(not good enough)...and probably never will unless I get to vote for myself several times....lol.  But, as I read your post it sounded very familiar and wanted to share advice that was given to me that helped.  

   I had put on about 6 coats of shellac when I spoke with John over at Woodcraft.  Like you, I was thinking put on shellac...sand smooth...obtain nice finish ...done.  John taked a different way....put on shellac...begin the rubbing out process...obtain nice polished finish...done.  He started me rubbing out with 400 grit and water till the whole top was white.  Then apply a thin coat of shellac (1-1.5 lb cut) if there are holes in the surface, and move up to 600 grit...or, go directly to 600 grit and then 1000 and maybe 2000 after that.  John indicated he has had to apply up to 18 thin coats to get the finnish he wanted...using successively higher grit levels of wet and dry.  I use a block of styrofoam under the sandpaper to help keep pressure even.  Think of it like sharpening a chisel...the higher the grit the more the tool is polished.....same with shellac.  Why don't you take a nice sized piece of scrap and play for a day....its fun.  
1. 
   HowardAcheson | Sep 13, 2004 06:22pm | #4

   Because shellac melts the underlying coat and then dries fast, it is a difficult finish to brush on. The easiest way to a smooth finish is to pad the final coats of shellac on. "Padding" is a somewhat different process from "french polishing" and somewhat easier.

   For a good description of the process go here: http://homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/padshellac2.htmHowie.........

2. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 13, 2004 04:16pm | #2

   Les, I think your better option, since you're applying shellac, is to use the French polish method. 

   Applying coats, allowing them to dry and then rubbing them out with abrasive is the traditional method for other film type finishes...but shellac is so soluable in alcohol and dries so quickly that the French polish technique allows you to literally keep the shellac moving and filling the surface until it becomes too dry for dust to adhere to it. You'll get a much smoother finish and a soft, even luster, with far fewer coats. It's a laborous process...but so is all the sanding you're currently doing.

   To match a French polish surface using the "coat, cure and sand" method you'd have to literally bury the piece in shellac and then take the final coat down to about a 600 grit...and still it's doubtful you'd achieve the kind of even luster obtainable by French polishing.

1. 
   lesleypf | Sep 13, 2004 11:19pm | #5

   Thank you for your suggestions. I would be interested to learn how to do French polishing although I don't really have the time on this project. Any go links on how it's done?

   I have been trying to use Jeff Jewitt's padding technique although with 54" wide boards it is hard to do a full stroke on just one pass. Also, I don't have any of the polishing compounds -- can you recommend stuff that is available at either my local hardware or auto shop?

   I know I shouldn't be rushing the finishing process but I have to get so much stuff done before winter arrives...!

   Thanks,Les

1. 
   Alan | Sep 14, 2004 02:37am | #6

   Les,

   I agree with BG: you're making too much work for yourself.  You need to use ever finer grit abrasives as you build the finish.

   The only reason to use paper as coarse as 220 is if you have some REALLY uneven spots.  For removing little nits, bits, motes and dots, and level at the same time, try some 400 wet and dry paper.  Lubricate the paper with either wool lube or water with a drop or two of soap in it.  Then apply two or three more coats of your 2lb cut, using the same sanding technique between coats, but also using finer grit paper.

   You can continue using your 2lb cut for all the succeeding coats, but use finer paper.  I never use anything finer than 600 grit wet and dry, sanded wet with wool lube, or water and soap.

   From 600 grit paper I go to 0000 steel wool lubricated with wool lube.  (Wool lube can be hard to find, but persevere.  Your labor will be well rewarded.)  Wool lube is much thicker and slicker than water and soap, so it's a better lubricant.  With wool lube the effective grit of paper or wool is finer, and that means the finish will be shinier than if you used no wool lube.

   You certainly can move on through two grades of pumice and then rottenstone, lubricated with paraffin oil.  I don't.  I almost always stop after I've rubbed out two coats with steel wool and wool lube.  The finish is far from glossy--it's not even semi-gloss--it's somewhere between "egg shell" or matte and semi gloss.

   My favorite finish in the whole world is rubbed out shellac topped with a good, hard wax that's been buffed to a shine.  To me it has the twin delights of drop-dead gorgeous looks, and it feels great when touched.

   I brew up my own wax out of carnuba and beeswax, but I have time on my hands.  Others will advise you better than I can about which waxes are best.  When you wax, the innate hardness of the wax, and how long and hard you buff it out, determines its gloss.

   French polishing does look great--on the right piece.  I don't think it's appropriate on everything.  Plus it's just plain hard to do properly, and it's extremely time consuming.  (But one of these days I will learn to do it right.)

   I hope some part of this is useful.

   Alan the gas bag, going on and on and on an...

3. 
   desertrat | Sep 13, 2004 05:11pm | #3

   I have to agree with Jon Arno's comment.  I french polish everything I do, and it works great.  That is except for table tops that will get heavy use, then I seal with shellac and use a varnish on top.  Then the use of the polishing compounds is in order to achieve that smooth finish.