Replies

1. 
   roc | Dec 05, 2009 08:02am | #1

   Band saw kerfs are thinner.
   or
   put in the oven and heat up and pull apart then rejoint.

   guess that's not much help.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   davidbrum | Dec 05, 2009 06:04pm | #2

   Last winter I had a 48 x 48" Table top which warped a bit after glue up. I clamped the flat part of the table top to my workbench, with the warped part hanginng out into space, warp up. I wiped hot water on the warped area, then put a heavy weight on it overnight. It worked pretty well, although this was soft maple and that trick may not work on other woods. Worth a try though.

   David B
3. 
   Napie | Dec 05, 2009 06:23pm | #3

   An eighth is not very much, what is it going to be used for? If it is a table top you can pull that out of it when you fasten it down. Hell, it'll move that much over the course of a year anyway!

1. 
   tonyrays | Dec 05, 2009 08:05pm | #4

   I cut this piece down the middle and got most of it out now. I have one other twist in a door for the cabinet. The door is 21 x 20 and I would like it to be real flat when it closes. The design didn't work for frame and panel so I just had to do a glue up. This door is twisted about 1/8 also. Will I be able to pull it out with the hinges (3 per door)? or any other suggestions on how to straighten it out.

   tony

4. 
   DonStephan | Dec 06, 2009 08:32pm | #5

   As the problem is occured with a pair of glueups, might be worth looking for the cause.  (I don't expect hinges will permanently remove the twist from a solid door.)

   If you've not had twist in glued up panels before, is there something different this time?  New wood?  New supplier? 

   After a lot of reading, the procedure I've had success with is to allow newly purchased boards to acclimate to my workshop for 1-4 weeks.  Rough cut to size.  Flatten one side and then make other side parallel.  Put back on shelf for a week.  If after a week the board is no longer flat, repeat the process two times; if it still is pretty near flat, repeat the process and work on edges.  Confirm perpendicularity of jointer fence and joint one edge.  Rip to just over final width and joint second edge.  Lay out final arrangement of the boards and mark orientation with large triangle or other means.  Lay one outside board on outside edge on worktable and stabilize with wood clamp or similar.  Stack the rest of the boards in marked orientation.  Carefully hold straightedge against the upright surface to see if the panel flat across the width.  If not, re-joint as needed.  At that point, shooting the edges with long plane and springing joints is optional; if done, stand the panel on edge again and reconfirm flat across width.)

   Dry clamp the panel, alternating clamps above and below, and check with winding sticks for twist.

   It adds some time to producing a panel, but so far I've not had noticeable twist afterwards.  Keeping my fingers crossed for good luck and cooperative wood.

1. 
   tonyrays | Dec 06, 2009 08:47pm | #6

   My whole problem is that I don't have enough money yet to buy a jointer. So far I plan my projects and grain orientation to accomadate for any twist in design. IE; being able to glue the boards to supports or cross members with the same grain orientation to make up for wood movement. However on a door panel, for me and my equipment it is a crap shoot. On this project with 10 glue ups only one is in a place that will make a difference and it is not that much. I think sometimes I get too picky as my trade is machining. I do think this board is twisted a bit much for its application though. I'll post pics after I'm done and you guys can let me know if I'm being too picky.