Hi All,
I purchased the Delta 6″ X5 jointer and to get into the shop removed the parts from the box. The cast iron parts have a LOT of anti-rust protective coating on them. Delta’s manual suggests the use of kerosene to remove this stuff and then to use a paste was as a follow-up coating. I agree with both but is there ANY other methods that are as good or better that I can try?
Thanks in advance!
Kind regards – Fred
Replies
brake cleaner from your auto parts store.
Kerosene is probably the best. WD40 will work also. I'd advise against using brake fluid. If any should come into contact with the finish, it will remove the paint.
Jeff
Hi,
thanks to all for replying! So if I "do" go with the kerosene, does it take much elbow grease? I'm not lazy, it's just that I'm wondering what I'm up against. There's a lot of this coating all over a lot of a 6" jointer.
Regarding the paste wax, any suggestions regarding brands (are some better than others)? I have a can of Butcher's (White Diamond) and wonder if that's good stuff for this. The can does make mention of cast-iron surfaces. I truly don't even remember why I originally bought the wax.
Thanks again!Kind regards - Fred
You've probably already thought of this, but quite a bit can be removed with a plastic spatula. I'll bet you bought that Butcher's wax for your jointer -- you just didn't know it at the time, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The plastic spatula is really good - I also have used one except I've now "adjusted" a metal spatula and it works great. I took a good Hyde brand 1.5 inch putty knife and sharpened it like a chisel - I've used it for everything from removing wall paper to doing just as you suggested - scraping a surface to clean it, whether it's oil, grease or sticky back labels. I keep the knife sharp and ready for a myriad of projects. And once you have scraped the surface, cleanup with a solvent is minimal work.
Hi,
Hmmm. You gotta love fate!
Thanks to 'ALL' for replying with your input. The mobie base should have been in stock but was not so as soon as it arrives, I can start assembly. The cleaning can start right away though! There's no moving this pup around without the mobile base.Kind regards - Fred
It's brake cleaner, not brake fluid. Some are nonflammable, although the fumes are truly nasty.
Pete
Sorry, didn't read closely enough. I never knew there was such a thing; will have to check it out next time I'm at the auto parts store.
I would not use any of the products mentioned - kerosene, brake fluid, etc. As a chemist and a former firefighter, I prefer the least volatile product - simple mineral spirits/paint thinner from a big box store. Lower volatility than the other products (less vapor, hence less chance for explosion/fire). I just cleaned a Nova chuck for a lathe - heavily coated with oil from the manufacturer in New Zealand. Cleaned up like a charm in no time with mineral spirits.
And Butchers Wax is great - everyone has their own idea for protecting cast steel surfaces; I personally use Butchers and it does a great job.
All the brake cleaner i use is non-flammable. Carb cleaner on the other hand is highly flammable.
Also ive never had paint problems when using brake cleaner.
I've seen all kinds of recommendations in the forums for various solvents to use for this purpose, but IMO it's a good idea to pay attention to your owner's manual. For instance, one of mine stated specifical not to use lacquer thinner (or, I think, Naptha). It's not for me to ask why, I just followed instructions. (Silly idea, I know)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I may be mistaken, but I believe kerosene is still a leaded fuel.
The Material Safety Data Sheet for kerosene makes absolultely no mention of lead.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Cool, but it's nasty nevertheless.
"It leaves behind an oily residue which prevents rust." Boy, and how. It leaves behind a residue on the floor and in the machine's nooks and crannies that you'll never get to with paper towels.
What happened to worries about substances that could interfere with a finish?
Use lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol.
Edited 10/12/2003 11:06:02 AM ET by BossCrunk
No lead in kerosene unless it was added for some reason. And, I don't know of a reason why it would be added.
They tell you to not use lacquer thinner because the lacquer thinner will remove the paint, or at least soften it if it touches it anywhere, and it is flammable. But it sure cleans well and evaporates fast... good for the final wipe of the machined surfaces. I'd do it outside, but then I wouldn't use kerosene inside either- you'd smell it for months... in fact I'd try to get the kerosene smell off with a alcohol rinse or two before I take it inside. The long term smell of kerosene is the problem for me, it is fine for a big commercial shop with lots of air leaks, but not in my house please.Edward
Ditto that. The smell will make your eyes water for months. No way I'm using kerosene to clean anything in my shop. It's nasty and stinks. Denatured alcohol works just fine. To hell with any residual lubrication that kerosene provides - that's what wax if for, or Boeshield, or TopCoat, or WD-40, or 3-in-1.... need I go on?
Paint thinner and denatured alcohol also work. If you let the solvent sit on the surface for a minute or so it doesn't take much elbow grease at all. Using a Scotch-Brite pad helps. Lots of rags, too. (Safely disposed of.)
Definitely do it outdoors because of the solvent fumes.
I'd shy away from WD40 because you don't want oils getting on your wood.
Denatured alcohol works like a champ and evaporates quickly as well.
I know, I know, you think you need a petroleum based solvent to remove a petroleum based coating. Just try the alcohol.
Kerosene is the solvent of choice. It is recommended because it contains a residual amount of oil which lubricates and minimizes rust on the parts.
Mineral spirits is one step more refined from kerosene and can be used also. But, it contains no oil so you may want to spray some protectorent on surfaces that you won't be waxing.
BTW, WD40 is primarily mineral spirits. It's just an expensive way to buy it.
Finally, naphtha is the next refining step and can be used aslo. As with mineral spirits, naphtha contains not oil and it evaporates faster.
The faster a petroleum distillate evaporates, the more flammable it is. So, kerosene is safer to use than mineral spirits or naphtha.
Hy Fred !
I just purchased the same machine,Kerosene works well and you don't need a lot of it, mostly on the bed,your looking at no more than 4 or 5 parts anyways,it didn't take half the time I thought it would to put together, the only pain is the farthest bolt under the inbed there are only three, anyways by the time you read this you will probably know this first hand.Runs pretty smooth hey ! what do you think?
Cheers!
Slim
Well All,
I used the mineral spirits followed up with Butcher's wax. Plus, scraped the larger parts first as FG and another poster mentioned. This combo worked great and didn;t stink up the place. The Buther's wax actually is pleasing smell (to me anyway).
The joniter head still needs to be cleaned however. I'm waiting for the mobile base before that part comes out of the box (I'll let you know how it operates in the future Slim).
So thanks to all for your input.Kind regards - Fred
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