Replies

1. 
   Routerman | Aug 06, 2009 01:37am | #1

   Can do.

1. 
   nolazyboy | Aug 06, 2009 09:39am | #2

   Thanks a bunch. I have already watched the video, made my notes and hopefully will get to set up my router fence as in the video. I have an old Craftsman router table which does not have the split or two fences but the outfeed side screw can be loosened and the outfeed fence move forward accomplishing same objective.

   So now I have going to have some nice square edges.

1. 
   BG | Aug 06, 2009 11:20am | #3

   nolazboy,Don't forget, when the project allows, you can also gang clamp some pieces and run them through your planer on edge too...square and parallel.

1. 
   nolazyboy | Aug 06, 2009 01:39pm | #4

   Thanks for the idea-but could you please expand a bit. Will this have the same effect, i.e. jointing the edge? I thought the planer will follow the direction existing on the board (edge), i.e. like a cup on the face-which can be taken out with Keith Rust's jig. I have the DeWalt 13" planer and most of the material I will be working with will be 4/4 x 6 or 4/4 x 8.

   Phil

1. 
   BG | Aug 06, 2009 07:06pm | #8

   Phil,I don't have a jointer so I use the planer when ever I can to cut down on the hand planing. I've never used the router for jointing, it may be the best solution, I just don't know. However, often, after I've flattened my boards, lets say for making a panel, and the boards being the same width, I'll either use small wood clamps or spring clamps to hold several pieces together an put them through the planer on edge. After several light passes all boards will have one edge in the same plane. I then flip the boards to the other plane and run that through the planer. in the end all the boards will be the same width with square edges and parralel edges.I built the sled a couple of years ago but have yet to use it. It pretty heavy and cumbersome and i find it effective to use a piece of melamine with a small cleat and thin cut offs to level a board before running it through the planer. Part of my problem with the sled is I usually process wood that is in the 2-3' length range and the sled is over 5' long. So in addition to being over sized the cleats on the sled don't support my work pieces very well either.

2. 
   nolazyboy | Aug 06, 2009 07:26pm | #9

   Thanks for the information and this will really help a lot. I never thought I could run the edges through.

   Phil

2. 
   robkress | Aug 06, 2009 02:58pm | #5

   NoLaz,Instead of goofing with an imperfect router table fence (like mine is), often times I'll just grab a scrap of sheet goods with a factory edge on it (factory edges on plywood, mdf, etc are always perfect). Then I either drill a hole (for the router bit) or just clamp it to my table and raise the bit. Of course the hole you make should intersect the factory edge (not drilled in the middle of the board) so that the router bit is exposed out the edge of the piece of sheet goods. What you really want is the hole drilled right on the edge of the sheet goods. This basically sets the edge of the router bit (a straight bit) and the edge beyond the router bit in line.This creates a perfectly straight edge / fence on the router table. Now, take the infeed side of the new fence (the edge of the sheet goods before the hole) and cut off 1/16" or so (do this as straight as you can). Then, put the fence back on the router table and align the bit with the outfeed edge of the fence. Now the bit will be protruding beyond the infeed edge by 1/16" and the infeed edge will be perfectly parallel to the outfeed edge.Perfect, quickie (made in less than 10 minutes), shop made jointer fence for your router table.
   I should post a drawing but I can't make one at the moment. If you can't visualize, let me know and I will draw it up.Conversely, you can do the same thing by gluing a well made piece of wood to the outfeed side of the fence (instead of trimming the infeed side if you can't do that perfectly).Rob Kress

   Edited 8/6/2009 8:07 am ET by robkress

1. 
   nolazyboy | Aug 06, 2009 05:39pm | #6

   Thanks, I got the picture.

   Phil

2. 
   larinUP | Aug 06, 2009 06:24pm | #7

   Edge jointing with a router does work, and the setup is easy. Also, easy learning curve, but you will have to practice.

   Search for " edge jointing with router " on FWW and you will find more info.

   See the attached picture of the setup I used. I copied it from workshop demos. http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-18.htm

   Larry

   
1. 
   nolazyboy | Aug 06, 2009 07:29pm | #10

   Thanks for the link.  I just finished taking a look and made copies of the pictures and

   text to an Excel file I have set up for jointing with the router. Big help.

    

   Phil

3. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 06, 2009 07:49pm | #11

   I won't dispute that edges can be jointed nicely on a good router table with a good fence and the appropriate precision in setup, as outlined on Pat's web site. There may still be surface irregularities, however, due to inconsistencies of pressure against the bit, variations in rate of feed, etc. So, the router-table approach, while feasible, isn't without its potential for error.

   Getting the right tool for the job can be, in some cases, less expensive in the long run. Plus, small-ish (4"-6") are relatively inexpensive on the used market. Of course, the traditional jointer-planer-jointer sequence will always be open to debate.

   For precisely square board ends and precisely coordinated board lengths for boxes, I find a well-tuned shooting board (and an appropriate hand plane) indispensible.

1. 
   7Joel | Aug 06, 2009 08:35pm | #12

   I have tried the router table approach and find that shimming one half of the split facing of my homemade fence works but.. a handplane (jointer) is often much less hassle. Less testing and setup.