Replies

1. 
   SantaFeTom | Jan 23, 2009 11:14pm | #1

   Although it may not be necessary to explain each use, a jointer flattens or straightens boards, a planer makes one surface parallel to the other even if it isn't flat. Using both machines the logical sequence would be to flatten a board on a jointer and plane the other surface parallel to the flat side.

   You can flatten boards with hand planes or homemade jigs to hold a router a fixed distance from a board, thereby flattening with a router. You can straighten a board with a hand plane or jigs to hold the piece against a table saw fence and straighten with a table saw. There are probably other ways to flatten and straighten without a jointer.

   So to finally answer your question, if I had to choose one, I would get the planer first.

   As to size, bigger is always better. I used a portable 12" planer for years. I doubt I have ever needed to plane a board wider than 12", although I have done it once I had a bigger planer. I think you could get by with a 10" planer but shop around for bigger ones near the same price.

   
   

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   Edited 1/23/2009 3:16 pm ET by AustinTom

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 23, 2009 11:43pm | #2

   I second Austin Tom's advice. Traditional wisdom says the first step in preparing stock is to run it through a jointer to get 1 straight face to use as a reference for subsequent operations, and that's still probably the best way to do it. However, it's not the only way -- there are other ways (as AT points out) that are pretty fast, simple and reliable. Having the ability to buy rough sawn wood (for which you'll need a planer unless you wanna go neander and use hand planes) opens up a huge array of possibilities not otherwise available to the beginner -- or the seasoned pro, for that matter. ;-)

   So, while I would never say a jointer is not an important tool, IMHO it is a tool that you can put a bit lower on the shopping list if your short on cash, shop space (guilty!), or both. While I must say that this is probably a minority position, my own jointer sleeps peacefully under it's blankie in the corner of my shop except for one or two times a year when I pull it out for some operation (usually wide, deep rabbets) that I can't do more easily on the TS.

   FWIW, if you go to a commercial furniture factory, I'd bet a dollar you won't find a jointer in the place.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 24, 2009 12:16am | #4

   1 

   2

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   Is that a dollar per instance? :) 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 24, 2009 01:03am | #5

   DOH! I guess I owe ya!

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   dgreen | Jan 24, 2009 01:11am | #6

   The reason I looked is there is a furniture factory on the end of my block with several jointers one of which is a huge slab of old Oliver.

   It's top is polished to a high sheen from continuous use and I have lusted after it for years! 

    

   ................................................

   Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot

3. 
   bones | Jan 24, 2009 12:00am | #3

   Welcome to a life of enjoyment!  You face a common delima as I did many,many,many moons ago.  Remember to start with square flat material is critical to success.  So which is better? They both are important.   A planer will only make two surfaces parallel.  if it's not flat it won't help with that.   There are ways to flatten stock with a planer (do a search on this site) they're are sleds and methods to do it.  It's not quick but it is doable.  I (when just starting out) would save my money and buy one good tool a year to build up the shop.  I started with a makita 12" desktop planer and would get the lumberyard where I got my lumber to mill it partially (1 face and a strait line rip). This allowed me to start with one face flat & one edge strait) I paid shop time but it was minimal.  I could then finish the job with the TS & planner.  My next tool was a 6" delta jointer.  I could then just get rough stock, but had to be careful on stock selection or rip it and flatten and then glue back together due to the limitations of the jointer width.  Never was satisfied with the 6" but used it for eons.  I recently purchased a 12" grizzly jointer and could not be happier.  I looked at the combo, but the jointer tables are short and you want the widest longest tables you can have.   Before that purchase I had started using a #7 hand plane to get it flat so I could do the wider boards with out the ripping and regluing.  If you decide to do that, check out Rob Cosmans rough to ready its great.   So you can do the tasks in many ways, its just easier based on your pocket book.   Take care and have fun!

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
4. 
   flairwoodworks | Jan 24, 2009 04:11am | #7

   All the advice you've gotten so far is sound. However, to better answer your question, you need to figure out what kind of materials you will be using.

   Obviously, if you will be building cabinets with plywood, you do not need either.

   If you are working with relatively small dimensions of solid wood, you may be able to rip it to thickness with the table saw. I do this regularly even though I own both a jointer and planer. Just take care and pay attention if you try this method. I don't think I'd recommend it to someone new to the tablesaw, but it is an option.

   It you buy your wood already surfaced (smooth on both sides), a planer will allow you to transform common 3/4" thick stock into odd thicknesses which makes your work less factory-ish. Just pick through the pile for the straight boards.

   If you get your wood rough, as it comes from the saw mill, you really need both unless you are prepared to do a lot of work with hand planes. Of course there is nothing wrong with that and the skill you learn tuning and using planes are very useful.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   (soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   sledge | Feb 05, 2009 10:18pm | #12

   My thoughts are similar to flairworks.
   I have a Delta jointer and a 12 yr old Craftsman 12.5 planer. My habit is to use a hand plane to roughly flatten boards, then run them through the planer. I then use my tablesaw to edge the board. My tablesaw blade leaves a barely decernable crosshatch pattern on the edges without glazing. As I mentioned, this is my HABIT, not necessarily the professional way. It works for me. If I'm gluing them together and have matched them reasonably well, it's very hard to see the glue line.
   I keep looking at the jointer thinking I should use it, but very seldom do.Ed

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 11, 2009 03:25am | #13

   I for one tend to agree with what you do. Maybe cus' I do it that way..

   I do use my jointer. A common 8 inch that does a nice job but I use it just 'clean up' some before I do 'other things'...

5. 
   gofigure57 | Jan 24, 2009 04:42am | #8

         Benny, how do you plan to purchase your lumber? straight line surfaced or in the rough.                                     

                Tom.

1. 
   bennyb515 | Jan 26, 2009 07:29pm | #9

   I buy all my lumber straight line surfaced. I don't know of a location were I can buy rough lumber.

6. 
   Samson | Jan 26, 2009 08:44pm | #10

   I recommend that you buy a good lunchbox planer first.  I'd get one with at least a 12" capacity.  This is not a large machine.  I have the Makita, but others are very good too (I know folks who love their DeWalts, for example). 

   If you have a decent table saw, it will do a decent job of edge jointing when you rip with a good blade. 

   As for face jointing, a handplane can get one side reasonably flat so that you can then run the board through the planer.  A sled can also be used.

7. 
   screename56 | Jan 26, 2009 11:55pm | #11

   Benny,

   If you have a planer, you also have the ability to use a variety of woods that can be purchased at places that have a client base that works with alot of cabinet shops.  You can find them in your telephone book.  This lumber is not usually S4S and will need to be surfaced. Some will only sell to cabinet shops, some have minimum purchase amounts, some will sell to whoever comes thru the doors.  Obviously, the cabinet shops will get better pricing.  Without a planer, you are locked in to whatever the big box stores sale, usually only oak, poplar, and clear pine.  Their prices are usually much higher and substantially less variety than those that work with cabinet shops. 

    If you call around to some cabinet shops in your area, they will often times buy there most popular lumber such as oak, maple, and cherry in full bunks.  Some of them will be glad to sell to you for cash out of their supply.  You will still need to surface the wood with a planer.

   Be sure to also check woodfinder.com.  You may be surprised at some of the suppliers in your area.  When you get an opportunity, you should fill out a profile form for fww.com.  There may be some others that read this forum in your area that can tell you some places to buy lumber.

   A planer opens more doors to you.  If you want to go crazy,  a 16" Powermatic planer does not have much of a footprint and also has wheels built into it.  Many larger tools do so they can be rolled out of the way.  A good tablesaw can be a big help with straightening an edge.  All of your tools can be put on wheels.  If you check the archive articles, there are many good ideas for getting the most out of a small shop.

   Screename56