Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | May 21, 2003 03:18pm | #1

   It sounds like you have the outfeed table set to low.  To test my jointer after I install new blades I place a length of masking tape about 2" to 4" back from the cutter on the outfeed table. I then make a pencil mark on the tape so it is 3" back from the knives.  I then take a wooden straight edge (scrap wood with one straight side) about 12" long and place it on the outfeed side of the jointer with the straight edge on the bed.  One end should be on the resting on the cutter head and the other on the outfeed table.  With the jointer unplugged roll the cutter head until the blade makes contact with the wood but does not move it.  Then make a mark on the wood so that it lines up with the mark you placed on the masking tape.  When you roll the cutter head forward it should pick the wood up and move it 1/8" before the cutter head looses contact with the wood.  Anymore than a 1/8" means the bed is to low and less than a 1/8" it is to high.

   As for jointing I always apply pressure on the out feed side and try to place the board on the jointer in a way that it is going to be supported with the least amount of movement.  General rule cup up, butt before the top.

   Scott C. Frankland

1. 
   Dalewood | May 21, 2003 05:21pm | #2

   Scott, Thanks so much for the advice.  I printed your response off and I will try it this evening.   Dalewood

1. 
   Vibart2 | May 21, 2003 07:40pm | #3

   I always test the jointer after changing the blades with a 3'- 4' scrap of wood first & just bring up the back table a fraction at a time until the snipe disappears only takes a minute or two. Keeps it simple, thats why the back table is adjustable. You don't need a lot of techniques & tape & wooden straight edges & such. The proof is in the pudding, er the nicely jointed edge.

1. 
   SCFrankland | May 21, 2003 08:02pm | #4

   Total time to set the blades is 5 minutes.  I use the tape to check all my blades for the proper height and each end of the blade to see if they are set right.  It only takes a second with the tape and gives me a perfect pass the first time.

   Scott C. Frankland

1. 
   Vibart2 | May 21, 2003 10:19pm | #5

   You way is a real good way Scott.

   I use the tool that came with the jointer to push the blades down & then lock them in place then check the from end to en of each blade with a dial indicator & then just bring the table up till the blade moves a wood straight edge 1/8" as I rotate the cutter head. Then run the 4' scrap across the jointer to check for snipe & adjust the back table & it's ready to go.

2. 
   Dalewood | May 22, 2003 02:19pm | #7

   Bart,  My back table is difficult to adjust. It is an old Craftsman jointer and the adjustment screws are underneath so that it must be removed from the stand to access these. Even then they are hard to get to and there are leveling screws plus jamb nuts that turn when you adjust up or down.  When you have the table set correctly....you think, then tighten the jamb nuts it throws it off again.  Oh well, back to the drawing board. I worked for an hour yesterday on it and never did get it right. I will try again today.

1. 
   Vibart2 | May 22, 2003 05:28pm | #8

   I had 1 of those.

   My Dad has had one of those since 1955 or 1956.

   Once you get it right you should almost never ever need to do it again.

   Use the trick where you make 2 marks on the side of a stick 1/8 apart & set the stick on top of your tables with 1 line right over the edge of your out-feed table behind the cutter head & aligned with the edge of the table with the blade perfectly vertical the blade should just touch the bottom of the stick & when you roll the cutter head toward the rear table by hand it should just barely be able to drag the stick back toward the back of the jointer & the stick should stop moving with the second line aligned with the same edge as the first line was when you started rolling the cutter head.

   This cutter head may or may not have allen head or slotted head screws under the blades to adjust the height of the blades in the cutter head, I would use a dial indicator with a magnetic base to  set the blades from side to side of the cutter head. Either way if you use the stick or dial indicator check at both ends of each blade.

   I hope this helps you.

2. 
   Dalewood | May 22, 2003 06:34pm | #9

   Bart, thanks so much for the advice,  I will give this a shot this evening.

3. 
   JohnWW | May 22, 2003 09:18pm | #10

   Dalewood,

   From what you are describing you have a jointer with a fixed outfeed table, they were meant to be set up once at the factory and rarely if ever readjusted.  This is a fairly uncommon design used only occasionally on small home shop machines.  This design was never meant to be readjusted after a blade change.

   No matter how carefully the knives are set when they're replaced, the outfeed table on a jointer will almost always need to be adjusted up or down a few thousandths of an inch to get a straight, snipe free, cut.  Even if you set the knives perfectly, the outfeed height often needs tweaking to compensate for dulling of the knives and the different cutting characteristics of hardwoods and softwoods.  This is why most jointers have an adjustable outfeed table that runs on dovetailed ways.

   Now you have a new problem, the outfeed table on your machine needs to be realigned on your machine before you can do anything else with it.  To be honest, the lack of an adjustable outfeed table is a major drawback and  means the jointer will probably never work as well as you would like.  Basically it may not be worth the effort to get it realigned properly, but it can be done.

   If you decide to salvage things, write back and I'll try to give you some guidance on realigning the tables.  Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

   John

4. 
   Vibart2 | May 22, 2003 10:13pm | #11

   Dad had had his since around 1955 & has only reset the back table maybe twice. It can be reset to proper tolerance. I never needed to do this to my old jointer but if John can tell you  how & you get it right you should be fine. Take a deep breath & corral some patience & you'll do fine.

   I would like to have all the money Dad made with his jointer making custom face frame style cabinets.

5. 
   Dalewood | May 23, 2003 02:19pm | #12

   Bart,  Thanks for your kind words and to everyone who has helped.  I went to the Oldwoodworking machines website and downloaded the manual for my jointer. I then went by the instructions to set the tables and in just a few minutes had them real close.  I ran some sample pieces through and they came out very smooth and true. I know most of you on here have newer type equipment, but as far as myself I sure do enjoy the older machines.  I have  started a good collection of Craftsman model 103 machines...table saw, band saw and jointer and I am daily keeping my eyes open for more.  All these were built in the 50's era, give or take a year.  The metal in these machines are unbelievable.  They are all very heavy and the tops are as flat as when they were new. I thank you all again.  Dalewood

   Edited 5/23/2003 8:50:29 AM ET by Dalewood

2. 
   4DThinker | May 22, 2003 12:01am | #6

   "When the wood came off the infeed table it dipped down some and gouged out the wood. Do I need to be putting more pressure on infeed or outfeed tables? "

   If the board being joined has a curved (bowed in) edge, such that the tip and/or the tail stick out, then when joined the tail holds the edge up until it comes off the infeed table.  This lowers the whole board relative to the outfed portion and can gouge the tail.  But if you shift your hold-down pressure to the outfeed table once the board is more than half-way through,  the board would not dip at the tail when it goes past the infeed edge.

   This all assumes your blades are set right.  When I've got a bowed edge to join, I often "straighten it" at the band saw before running it through the jointer.  Even if the board starts out relatively straight, you don't want to be putting hard pressure on the tail of it when it is crossing the blades.

   4DThinker

   
   

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   Edited 5/21/2003 5:03:13 PM ET by 4DTHINKER