Replies

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Jul 11, 2004 10:14pm | #1

   re-set the knives, or tweak the fence tilt one way or the other until you get a square cut if you don't want to mess with the knives.

1. 
   DouglasABaker | Jul 13, 2004 10:14pm | #4

   Dave/Forestgirl -

   I think he's face jointing, so tilting the fence won't make a bit of difference.  In fact, for this particular exercise, the fence is entirely optional - all it does is help you keep the piece on the tables.  I agree when edge jointing, the squareness of the fence makes a huge difference.

   d-

1. 
   forestgirl | Jul 14, 2004 12:25am | #5

   Ooooops, guess I missed that.  My first thought was "Eeeeeek!  Don't mess with the knives until you've checked the fence."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   jhrob | Jul 15, 2004 05:42am | #8

   You are correct.  I am face jointing so the square fence is immaterial.  I don't think I made it all that clear in my question.  Jerry

2. 
   mike4244 | Jul 12, 2004 03:57am | #2

   When you set the knives did you reference them off the outfeed table? If not and you referenced the knives from the cutterhead, the cutterhead and the outfeed table may not be paralell across the width. Try setting knives from the outfeed table with a straight  1"x3/4"x 12" piece of wood that is straight. The wood should move about an 1/8" forward on each side of the knife when you move the belt by hand.When all three knives move the same amount , the knives are the same height. Some jointers come with a jig that sits on the cutterhead, the knives are adjusted with this tool. I suspect this is how you are setting the knives. I believe if you set the knives without the jig you will get good results.

   mike

1. 
   jhrob | Jul 15, 2004 05:40am | #7

   Mike--I like your method of setting the knives.  I had been using a straight edge off the outfeed table, but it's very hard to get them just right.  I have reset them using your method, and after redoing the end of one knife, it looks like things are OK.  Many thanks.  Jerry

1. 
   mike4244 | Jul 15, 2004 11:53pm | #13

   I'm glad to help , most of the time it is best to set the knives off the outfeed table. Some people use a dial indicator instead of a wood stick. I have done it both ways, found the stick was an accurate way and a little faster for me. Still takes awhile either way.

   mike

3. 
   forestgirl | Jul 12, 2004 09:05pm | #3

   Very first thing to do is check your fence adjustment (90*s to table).  Then follow Mike's instructions.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   dondownunder | Jul 14, 2004 11:42am | #6

   Jerry

   It seems to me that if your stock is tapered after machining then the in feed table is likely to be tilted (out of level) slightly in relation to the cutterhead.

   I'd be inclined to check that the in & out feed tables are lined up (left to right parallel looking along the jointer) first then check that the blades are then set in relation to the out-feed table.

   Don

1. 
   jhrob | Jul 15, 2004 05:45am | #9

   Don--Thanks for your help, but if my tables are not level side to side, I have no idea how to go about adjusting them.  I think resetting the blades has solved my problem, but if not, I think I will be in the market for a new jointer.  Jerry

1. 
   dondownunder | Jul 16, 2004 03:57am | #15

   Jerry

   If the tables are parrellel to each other (side to side) then whether they are  not parrallel in relation to the cutter block is not too much of a problem if you set the knives according to the previous posts (off the out-feed table). I'm not that familiar with your machine but on an ancient & venerable old war-horse that belonged to my grandfather I was able to shim out a minor misalignment (shimming the out-feed table as it rarely gets adjusted compared with constant height adjustments to the in-feed). Incidently this machine is used daily in acommercial environment.

   My more modern (by about 80 years) jointer has 8 set screws to adjust both tables both ways

   Don

1. 
   jhrob | Jul 29, 2004 04:26am | #16

   Many thanks to you all for the help.  I think I've got my jointer working pretty well right now.  Jerry

2. 
   MarkRD | Jan 29, 2005 08:26pm | #17

   I'm curious about your machine - I have what I believe to be 50 year old Walker Turner(I bought it a few years ago.) Strange thing is, My dad has virtually the identical machine - his uncle got it through army surplus before I was born (1961). (the machine still has green paint on it and a gold serial number stensiled (sp?) on the side... :-)Mark

1. 
   dondownunder | Jan 30, 2005 02:24am | #18

   Mark

   It's a Gilbro Super Smoother (can't you just picture the ad co coming up with that name between the wars). There are no plates on the machine that offer a hint to its origin but I will do some research on that.

   It is finished, as are all the others I've seen in a grey-green livery. Mine is a 4" but I've seen quite a few 6" in use here.

   I think it is because it is easy to set up, & relatively central in the workshop that we tend to use it a lot for planing short stock rather than the 8" or 14" machines I have.

   Don

5. 
   coolbreeze | Jul 15, 2004 06:10am | #10

   Jerry,

   I have a Delta 6. If you usa a dead flat straight edge(Starrett or any proven straight edge) referenced against the outfeed table to set the knives, you should not have a problem. I would recommend that you flatten a side then run it through your planner several times and check it for square. If you are still square, then run it again several times through the jointer and check again for square. If you are not still square, check the knife settings using the straight edge against the outfeed table. If it is still set properly, maybe Delta can help you. If the knives are not still dead level with the outfeed, your problem may be in the adjustment nuts and if so, safety should then be your main concern.

   JMHO

1. 
   jhrob | Jul 15, 2004 09:39pm | #11

   Thanks for your help.  Am I correct in assuming the "adjustment nuts" you refer to are those that lock the blades in place?   Jerry

1. 
   coolbreeze | Jul 16, 2004 01:52am | #14

   Jerry,

   I am talking about the adjustment nuts. As you know you make an evelation adjustment and then lock them down.  I really doubt that that is your problem, but I think it would be a mistake to rule it out. There have been other replies that are better than mine and may be of more help.  I have found the folks at Delta very helpful. You will first talk to the person who takes your call and he/she will try to help, but my experience has been that they will heve someone who really knows your machine call you.

   Hope all works out. Your jointer is something you have to have if you are doing more than making bluebird boxes.

   Cool

6. 
   JerryPacMan | Jul 15, 2004 11:50pm | #12

   Use the wood stick method described in the link below.  It is very accurate, fast and easy to do.  I used a stick about 12" long and put some lines on the stick 1/8" apart.  I line up a mark with the end of the outfeed table then I can tell how much the stick moves.  I will never use my jointer knife setup jig again.

    http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/settingjointerknives.pdf   

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .