I am building a shadow box type picture frame for my grand doughter. the things that she wants to put in it will be a little heavy. I intend to use a lock miter bit for the joints for added strength with a trim over that cut at 45*. How do I hold the wood firm enough to get a good cut using a lock miter bit? Is there a jig for this? Where can I get the plans for this jig? Thanks for your help. Regards, Gerald.
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Replies
Hambone,
router table
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Lock miter bit? Shoot me first! I'd advise using splines on the miters instead. They'll probably be stonger, and way easier to make to boot.
If you're dead set on lock miters, you'll need a router table, a good fence system, including a miter fence, and LOTS of patience (and scraps) to get the thing set up properly.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Hello Mike; I Have a router table with a 3 1/2 hp router mounted in it. Thanks for your answer. There must be someone that has info. on a jig for this . Hegards, Gerald.
I've never seen a jig for a loc miter bit. Just endless trial and error. If you invent one, lots of us are going to be kicking ourselves for buying, trying and then tossing, lock miter bits! ;-)
Seriously, consider splines instead.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Hambone:I have attached a file from the Felder Owners Group (not created by me) that you might find helpful.Also, here's a link from workshop demos. He uses playing cards to help get the set up right.http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-sop-1.htmRegards,Hastings
Hello Mike; Thanks for youre reply. there must someone that can Help me with this. I could use splines but since i'm a beginer woodworker I would like to master this lock miter bit. regards, Gerald.
Hambone,
I fopund this when doing an Advanced Search here. http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=4331.11
There were just 13 responses altogether. I still haven't figured out this one yet.
The only jig, if you will allow that is one guy kept sections of both pieces, once he got it to work, to use as an aid to future setups. From what I've read nearly all will agree with Mike.
They ARE a bear! Nice concept though.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
A beginning woodworker -- well a lock miter bit is sure to scare you away from the hobby for the rest of your life, then! ;-)
The only way I know to "master" this bit is to buy two matching bits, and set them up in two router tables, make about 50 gallons of sawdust with about two days of tweaking the bits, to mill one specific part, and leave 'em that way. Forever. Production line stuff.
That said, and since we can't talk you out of it <G>, try this link:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/lockmiter.shtml
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAPS: Splines.
Best jig I found is a round bin that looks just like a trash can. But the lock miter bit in that, and you'll have no problems.
Hambone some of the places that sell bits - Grizzly, Eagle-America - probably others, sell a jig to help you set up the bit properly. I think, however, it has to be for their particular bit to and for the thickness of board you will be routing.
Thanks Stan; I did not that they might have what I need. I'll check them out and see. Thanks for your input. Regards, Gerald.
Go to http://www.woodshopdemos.com John has a good tute on lock-miter setup.
Dick
Thanks to both Dick and Hastings; That was exactly what I needed. I knew that there would be some knowledgble and experienced wood workers who could help me. Boy do I love these woodworking forums. Thanks again Regards, Gerald.
Gerald, don't let these guys scare you off Yes, a lock miter bit is a pain in the petutti, especially for only one project, but it's not impossible. I've worked with a similar bit, a drawer-lock bit. First of all, make absolutely sure your fence is absolutely 90° to your table, to eliminate any problems created in that area.
Read the directions (click here for Jesada's instructions), and start experimenting. You need alot of stock that's exactly the thickness as that of the project. Think through the geometry as you're going ("If I move the fence this way, it does this to the joint). Once it's all figured out, make a master to keep forever, to use as set-up blocks for the next time you use the bit. Many people make these out of some kind of phenolic(?) to be avoid the problems using wood might present.
Good morning Forestgirl; Thanks for your reference. I had seen it before and it is good, it doesen't tell how to hold the pieces solid to get a good miter on the end grain of stock. Between you and Mike ya'll have giver me some ideas on building a Jig. I'll get back to both of you and let you know how it all works out. Thanks again to both of you. Regards, Gerald.
There are pro's and cons of this bit and it is the most intimidating router bit I have ever used but once perfected the joints are fantastic. First rule and very important. Use a variable speed router as this bit chews a lot more wood than you suspect. Slow it down and don't try maximum cuts on first pass. Use of a sacrifical piece on top of piece being run through router will steady run piece against fence on flat side against table top. hope that made sense. Sac piece should be wider than run piece. use double stick tape to attach. Long runs are easier. cross grain is tricky. Best of Luck
One additional thought that came to me now that I THINK I figgered out what you're up to. It sounds to me like you may want to use the lock miter across the grain of the ends of your stock, as in front to back of the miter. I've never seen a lock miter used this way. They are usually used to join long edges, like in making hollow table legs. If I got it right, and you do intend to route across a miter, you'll need to make a sled to hold the stock at a 45° angle up from the table.
On the other hand, if you are planning to run the stock flat on the table, as in corner to corner on the miter, I would definately NOT try to run the stock into the bit against the grain - as in feeding the acute angle end of the piece into the bit first -- without a substantial backer/push block. I can't muddle out in my head if this would be necessary for either side of the joint when using the LM bit, but if so, as the robot used to say, "DANGER WILL ROBINSON!"
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Good morning Mike; Your sugestions have given me some ideas as to what I need to construct to get this accomplished. Thanks for all your help. I'll get back to you and let you know how it all works out.. regards, Gerald.
Edited 8/8/2007 12:44 pm by Hambone
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