Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 29, 2005 12:45am | #1

   The Stanley 66 hand beader, the LieNielsen beading tool copy, or a Lee Valley Veritas beading tool should all work well.  You can do router jigs, but the ends of router cut flutes are round and not tapered as they should be, and the oops factor is just too much for me.  By the way, the LieNielsen blades fit in the Stanley 66 just fine.    

   While you are designing, have you seen the flutes that are filled in the bottom with a bead.  These were used by John Townsend and make a very nice leg.   

2. 
   johnhardy | Nov 29, 2005 08:32pm | #2

   I'd use my router table. I've got an Incra fence, so incrementing the flutes is painless and extremely accurate for me. In lieu of that, you could make up spacer blocks of the same thickness and use those to help reset the fence. A stop block, of course, is necessary to keep the top end of the flutes in line.

   John

3. 
   Scrit | Nov 29, 2005 08:46pm | #3

   Why not just make a scratch stock? Like this? The metal varieties didn't exist when the original chair was made - so why compromise?

   Scrit

4. 
   douglas2cats | Nov 30, 2005 06:21am | #4

   Any decent quality edge guide should work. You've only got to do 3 setups - the center cut, then the inner and outer edge cuts. The last 2 are just cut from the opposite edge with the same setup. The hardest part is doing the layout to figure out the spacing so they have a consistent gap between them. Cant tell for sure from the pics, but it looks like a 1/4" bit. You shouldn't have any problem finding the small roundnose bits. I know Eagle has them down to 1/8". I'd go easy and make a couple of light passes instead of a heavier one that could grab/jump and push your edge guide away from the stock slightly.  

   If you build it he will come.

5. 
   AlanWS | Dec 01, 2005 01:30am | #5

   Without an Incra fence, a router table should work fine (if your bit has the correct profile). Rather than move the fence, a set of shims held to the fence with spring clamps would work: just remove one shim after each cut to space over for the next flute.

6. 
   sawdustandshavings | Dec 05, 2005 08:35pm | #6

   Marlon,

   I once had to do this when I was making a planter box, and all I used was my homemade table saw set to a depth of about 1/8" and set the fence to the flute the furthest away and then use spacers to do the other flutes or to widen the existing ones.i will try to post some pictures of the process later on. Please let me know how you get on with this.

   Sawdust.

7. 
   byhammerandhand | Dec 14, 2005 05:41am | #7

   I don't know if you will exceed the capacity of the jig, but a guy in town developed this flute spacing jig for a router table. I saw it demonstrated and it works well.

   http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2277&FamilyID=5146

   
   

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   Edited 12/13/2005 9:42 pm ET by byhammerandhand

1. 
   Glaucon | Dec 14, 2005 06:57pm | #8

   I use the Festool 1400 plunge router which has an edge guide with a fine adjust, as does the guide rail system.  The edge guide works pretty well for fluting (although I haven't tried tapering the stopped ends), especially if you use freshly jointed edges.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

8. 
   davidwood | Dec 16, 2005 04:35am | #9

   For flutting I use the Smart router kit with the limit stops.

   http://eurekazone.com/gallery/smart-limit-stops

   The sliding arm on the smart router gives you (" of perpendicular movement without reseting the guide rail. For table legs this is the fastest, safest  and easiest way.

   http://eurekazone.com/gallery/mortise-and-tenon

   David