Does anyone have an opinion or comment on the Jet 16-32 drum sander that is currently on the market?
I’m going back and forth between that model and the Grizzly #GO459 baby drum sander (12 inch).
Although i will use the machine where applicable, my main use would be for sanding band sawn veneer. I realize the 12 inch would have a size limitation, but suit my needs. If the stability of the four posts would yield better performance than the cantilevered design, that would be the option i’d most look for.
Jeff
Replies
I've got one (16/32 Performax). I set it up 4 or 5 years ago and have never had to adjust it since. They cost a lot for what they do... but they do it extremely well. Just make sure you have a good DC system and a belt cleaner.
As for Griz, I do not have any experience with their sanders... but I think they make a great machine, for the money. I've got a 15" planer and 10" jointer. Both have Spiral cutters and work great.
I have a performax 16-32 I bought from Woodcraft. Jet 16-32 is same machine as far as I can tell.
Regardless, Jet supports the 16-32 I have . The performance is great. Work well for a variety of tasks. Particularly, sanding resawn wood as well as truing lumber where a planar might not be applicable
I have had good success and performance with all Jet products I have.
Good Luck
Jabe
Wider slabs than 16?
Hey Jabe! Going back to an older post. I have some 30-32 inch slabs that need finish work - curious if you've used your 16/32 for wider stock? Was it reliable? Any tips?
I have had the Performax 16/32 Jet sander for 3years and it has seen a lot of use. Today I sanded 12 poplar boards 10" wide by 48 " long. I planed them to 0.685" and sanded to 0.625 doing it in 3 passes per side using 120 grit paper. Variation from side to side was within .005" and the boards were so flat that they stuck together like jo blocks. You will need a really good dust collection system. Any glue or sap on the wood will clog the paper and put burn marks on the wood. I avoid pine and never put any glued up wood unless it went through the planer first.The paper that comes with it is crap so I purchse my paper rolls from Industrial Abrasives in PA. and cut my length and taper the ends. (paper that came with mine was Klingspor, real light weight stuff and expensive)
Thanks for your input. I believe the Jet 16-32 is the way i will go. Seems as though patience as well as a good dust evacuation system are the keys.
My experience with the Performax 16-32 is similar to the others that have responded. Works as advertised. I've had mine for 8 or 9 years. The only limitation I've found with it is the 1.5 hp motor will thermal out if pushed too hard. It would work better with 3 hp, so it's not really suited to thicknessing wide stock if you are the impatient type. I use it for finishing veneers, inlays, and sanding glued up panels, slowly.
Hi Jeff,
I have the Performax 16-32 and like it a lot. Takes patience and does a beautifu job. But I have to say that I still lust for a stroke sander.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 3/18/2009 9:41 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
In the early nineties, I saw a stroke sander for the first time and didn't quite understand the concept. I was buying a metal lathe and a big, old Delta planer from an old gentleman who build grandfather clocks. The stroke sander was homemade, but looked professionally made. The old gent pleaded with me to take it along with the other two tools, but I didn't have room. In retrospect, being a handtool guy today, I've got to wonder what other smaller tools he may have had.
I also have a Performax 16-32 and have had it for a number of years. Never had an issue with it, provided I remember to only take a scoosh (smaller than a certain type of red hair) per pass.
T.Z.
Tony,
Huh, had a similar experience with the stroke sander - older fellow wgo's wife wanted him to retire but he steadfastly refused. I bought his Unisaw knowing his woodworking days were numbered. He also had a professional looking homemade stroke sander. I swear they'll havta take it off his casket when he passes.
Then he showed me some panels he sanded with it. Oh man, not much more to do with them for they're done. Yup, very light passes for them royal reds and keep the speed up a tad too.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Okay, now that i have the 16-32 lined up (i decided to go for the extension tables and casters as well). Next question to those of you who use the machine frequently would be.....What grits do you find yourself using the most?.My thoughts would be in the 100 to 150 grit range as i have no intentions of using the machine as a thickness planer.Any thoughts would be appreciated.Jeff
I use mostly 120, 100 leaves too rough a surface and 150 is very delicate, too heavy a cut ruins the belt, 120 is best for me. Found Klingspor paper to be very inferior to other brands. I use Industrial Abrasives and purchase it by the roll and cut my own pattern. The paper is heavier and lasts a lot longer. good luck
I usually keep some of their 36 grit on hand to flatten wide boards as I only have a 8 inch jointer. I was surprised at how easily it flattens wide stock. The only thing I do not care for is that the machine is initially finicky to set up for getting the sanding drum paralell to the bed of the feed table
We get to soon oldt und to late schmart
Have used mine for all manner of things but mainly to flatten panels. Sometimes you need a piece that's just the right thickness and all ya got is rough stock that's thick enough; sometimes it's quicker than setting up the planer when you only need a skosh taken off.
Remove finish from large flat surfaces; as someone else said - smooth up resawn surfaces. I've even used it to sand a flat face on burls that I make bookends from; one side remains a natural edge. Made a cradle out of some 2" thick styrofoam excavating out for the live side to sit in. Works well on birds eye maple too.
Want a dead flat surface, get it parallel to the drum and Bobs your uncle <no not me :-) >.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 3/23/2009 9:29 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Now that i have assembled the machine and am starting to tinker with it, i have another question.In setting the tension on the conveyor belt, i have noticed that it's quite fussy in getting it to track correctly. The manual says to tighten the side that it is drifting towards, but on the first and second shot of doing just that, it didn't seem to make it drift back the other way. Small adjustments as they recommended (1/4 turn) and letting it track for a bit.It was nearing midnight, and i figured I'd pass and continue this evening. Any insight would be appreciated.
Dang, wish I could help you with that. I got mine used and so worked from the git go. I'll ask the previous owner if he might have something that will help.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Woodcraft has the 16/32 plus in sale for $949. This is the best price I have seen in about 6 months.
Greg
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Greg, Yes, i just got their flyer in the mail yesterday as well. It also offers some other goodies to go with it. I wish they also had something that threw the extension tables into the mix.Thanks for the heads up!Jeff
Me too. But they know you need extension tables. It's like a required add-on. Kind of like the car dealers charging extra for the floor mats and mud flaps. Jet gets an extra $100 by holding back the extension tables. I have to think most people add the tables.I am going to build my own stand with cabinet below because I need every inch of storage space I can get. I will build the extension tables into the stand.Greg
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I have the performax 16/32 (now Jet) and I rarely sand any boards longer than 48" and I have no need for extension tables. I don't know how long the boards have to be before you need extension tables. I found it more effecient to cut my boards to almost finish size and then sand rather than send a long board through sanding more stock than necessary.
I think ye need at least enough beyond the drum to support the board. After that, for me anyway is that the extt. tables give me a bit more time to feed the next board(s) thru before the first batch falls on the floor. Of course a parallel outfeed table would work also.
The front ext. table helps me when I'm aligining the drum to board distance, even just that little bit extra works for me. If it came to a choice between the two, I'd get the infeed table; as to making my own I feel the $100 is reasonable.
Now underneath storage is another smoke all together. That's a great idea. Having a small woodshop ye grabs every ft. ye kin get.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I also don't know the length of boards that can be sanded w/o an extension table. This is a valid point. But I understand that these sanders, like planers can create snipe. So my thoughts are to plane and sand boards before cutting to limit snipe to as few board feet as possible. Perhaps this is not a real issue with the Jet Sanders.I am not intending to build my own extension tables to save the $100 or because I don't feel they are worth $100. It is simply easier to incorporate them in the stand I intend on building. Do the Jet tables not attach to the Jet stand?Greg
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Hi Greg,
I've seen snipe on processed boards but not nearly as dramatic as a planer and interestingly enough, on the front end of the boards! I attribute this to improper feeding when I first used it.
That's why I like the infeed table and could really do without the outfeed as I can use the TS for that - both machines are at the same height, the sander on a homemade mobile base.
One thing I don't like is that they are fixed and can't be flipped up or down. The ~ 2 sf I could save doesn't sound like much but oh the flexibility would be welcome. Funny you should ask as to how they are affixed to the stand/machine base - I'm not sure, never really looked. :-)
Well, you got my curiosity going so I just jaunted up and had a quick look. They appear to be integrated into the base of the machine but it looks like I may be able to remove the outfeed table. Eureka! (sp?)
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
They are sold as a pair, but they look like they bolt on individually. I too want mine to fold down. Another reason why I will build my own stand and integrate tables that can be lifted or fixed into position. Thanks for that information as I thought they could be collapsed down when not in use. I know that when I first get the sander, since it comes with a stand I would probably set it up until I got mine built. I was tempted to add the $100 table option, but now I won't. Small shop. Need all the space I can get.Greg
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I'm sure you already know this but make sure you get big enuf casters for your stand. Mine is kinda an experiment right now - small casters that trip on errent jointer chips :-) - that will change. The machine is top heavy to say the least - DAMHIKT!
Thank you for tweaking the gray matter fer me.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
iron sharpening iron!Greg
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