Replies

1. 
   KyleZ | May 19, 2003 05:32am | #1

   Silver,

   I used Ipe on a couple of exterior projects last fall.  Throughout one Rochester, NY winter there have been no ill effects.  The Ipe projects that I did last year look much better after one winter than the cedar deck I built last summer.

   Ipe is very hard.  Therefore, it offers some challenges that cedar, PT lumber etc., do not.  Everything has to be predrilled.  Even with predrilling, broken screws and drill bits are common place. 

   Plan on a lot of extra time dealing with these problems, and be up front with your customers that it will be time consuming if you are charging T & M. 

   Good Luck

   Kyle

1. 
   silver77 | May 19, 2003 01:42pm | #2

   It is extremely helpful info to be armed with at this stage...

   thanks, Kyle 

2. 
   IronDog | May 19, 2003 05:01pm | #3

   Hi Silver,

   I did an extensive deck, gazebo and stairway project a few years back with Ipe and it worked out very well.

   I completely ditto the comment about broken screws even with pre-drilling.

   I would consider experimenting with joining scrap pieces first to find the best method.

   Such as using a lubricant when driving the screws, perhaps using tapered bits might help as well. All a pain but removing broken screws is even more of a pain.

   It is a terrific product though. The only other material I would consider for a high end deck is Eon decking. It looks great, guaranteed not to fade and they have a rail system to go with it. It is just as expensive as Ipe.

   http://www.eonoutdoor.com

   Good luck,

   Tom

3. 
   jonsherryl | May 19, 2003 06:37pm | #4

   Silver, the responses you've gotten so far are right on the mark. Ipe has some outstanding properties with respect to decay resistance and strength, but is laborous to work with.

   The only additional caution I'd mention is that this wood is so dense it tends to develop fine surface checks when exposed to continuous changes in humidity. While they are not a concern with respect to structural integrity, they can be a problem when ipe is used as an exterior handrail. With this in mind, you may want to consider a heavy, film type (varnish) finish on the top of the rails. The wood doesn't need it to extend its durability, but it may help retard the hair line checks and the risk of splinters.

   A second consideration is the careful selection of stock, at least for the handrails. Ipe is cut from a multitude of closely related species. Some of them (usually those with a darker brown pigmentation) tend to have a more waxy feel (a higher concentration of a gummy substance called lapachol in the pores of the wood.) Stock of this type seems to resist the surface checks a little better.

   These are subtle points, but if it's a high-end job, you want to make it the best it can be. 

4. 
   Jimma | May 19, 2003 10:29pm | #5

   Silver: All of the above responses are right on, except I would add to Jon's that a piece of ipe that isn't straight grained may have splinter problems that won't go away, especially if used in a handrail where the grain may run at an angle to the surface. You didn't say if the handrail is going to be in straight sections, lathe turned or what machining may be required. It turns OK with patience and it is HARD. Jointing is fairly straightforward using machined joints, but you might want to try a sample or two using Gorilla Glue (or equal) as a test. Titebond II works quite well, actually, but a mechanical joint is best. I infer that this application will be left raw, and that is probably best. Even in Florida, unfinished ipe can be used for decking in full sun with results better than any other material. Worst problem is if the client doesn't like the light grey color after a while or if the installers don't put the fasteners in well. Let us know how it goes!