Has anyone used Ipe for small projects? I was in my local big box retailer last night. I happened to notice a piece with a very interesting grain pattern. I was able to buy an offcut (4 feet long) and brought it home. The wood has a reddish tone. When I planed it, the reddish color disappeared.
I was thinking about making a jewlery box or picture frame out of it. Is the reddish color a result of being exposed to light? Does it hold a finish? (such ast poly, oil or shellac). Will I need to do anything special when gluing?
Thanks,
Bill
Replies
There's variations in it's color in a board - goes from greenish to brown/reddish. It's monumentally heavy and dense - it sinks in water. Puts up clouds of talcum powder like yellow sawdust when it's cut. Predrill EVERYTHING as it will break screws like matchsticks. It's mainly been used for boardwalks and decks. It's oily so traditional poly type finishes won't work. The wholesales reccommend using a "light oil"- whatever that is - on decks built with it. Outside it holds it's color really well and will slightly gray after 3-4 years.
I will second everything the previous poster said but with a "depends" Not all ipe seems to be the same some is more oily than others. I had a bunch of scrap from some exterior work and I used it for drawer faces for my work bench and had no problem with using Minwax brush on oil based poly for a finish. The color looked really nice, that being said the stuff is a bit obnoxious to work with.
Have fun
Troy
"Not all ipe seems to be the same..."
Ipé is a collective term for several related species, so there are definite differences. Just like chestnut oak is sold along with other white oaks as just plain "white oak," even though it's quite a bit darker.
-Steve
We recently finished a deck out of Ipe, gotta tell ya it's heavier 'n sin. We used very expensive GRK Fin/trim stainless steel screws, predrilled for each and every one. When you drill it, the bit comes out with waxy deposit in the grooves.
You might expect quick wear on router bits and planer blades, not sure. Best to use a top-grade saw blade; clean the waxy stuff out frequently. Beware of "interesting grain" as we've seen some cathedral-shaped stuff kinda peel up.
I just ripped some 5/4 X 6" Ipe for the slats or Lataxe's "Unusual Gardern Bench" using a brand new 24 tooth carbide blade and was amazed at how nice it is to use a really sharp blade. The "waxy" stuff left on the blade is yellow. How should I clean it?
Any other insights on working with the Ipe?
ASK
"The "waxy" stuff left on the blade is yellow. How should I clean it?" I clean my sawblades with Simple Green (a household cleaner, found in grocery store) and a toothbrush. Soak in a pizza pan for ~5-10 mins., then scrub.
"Any other insights on working with the Ipe?" Since I haven't done more than the basics with it, for a deck, not much milling experience. But an important tip, IMHO: Wear breathing protection always, and long sleeves if you're going to work much of it. The dust is nasty, and you'd not want to develop sensitivity to it.
It splits easily, so always pre-drill for screws, as mentioned above.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks for the Simply Green suggestion, rather simple.
Yes I wore breathing protection and long sleeves. Don't think I am sensitive to it.
Pre-drill, of course. I knew that.
Thanks, hows the weather out west. Hasn't stopped raining back east for a couple of weeks on and off.
ASK
"Don't think I am sensitive to it."
That's just it--some woods, including ipé, are sensitizers. That is, the more times you're exposed to it, the worse your reaction. Poison ivy and poison oak are the same way; the first time you're exposed to it, you don't realize it, because you don't have an overt reaction.
-Steve
I got it.
ASK
"Thanks, hows the weather out west." Just set a record of some sort for #dry days, so I guess you got our rain. There were some clouds today, slim chance of showers tomorrow. Hubby was able to paint some outside, a good thing -- been waiting for months to get it done. Our deck is just a few days from being totally finished.
Muggy today and yesterday, felt like I was melting onto the saddle with both horses! Hope the tomatos like it. ;-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I see references to Ipe a lot in these columns,but it's not a known item in this part of the world. Can you please enlighten me?
Robin
Ipé comes from trees of the genus Tabebuia, which range from southern Mexico down into South America. It has many other names, too; according to Woodworker's Source: Amapa prieta, Bastard lignum vitae, Bethabara, Canaguate, Corts, Cortez, Ebano verde, Ebene vert, Greenhart, Guayacan, Hakia, Ironwood, Lapacho, Lapacho negro, Pau d'Arco, Polvillo.
Lapacho is the only other name I've seen commonly used. Some importers in the US like to call it ironwood, but there are at least a dozen completely unrelated species given that name, so it's pretty meaningless.
The wood is olive-brown, very dense and extremely hard. It's also very rot-resistant, so it's used a lot in outdoor work such as decks and boardwalks.
It has the dubious distinction of having gained so much fame and popularity as a sustainably-harvestable wood that there is now a thriving market in faked provenance documentation.
-Steve
FG and Steve,
I thank you both very much for your most informative replies. It is always interesting to 'meet' a new timber... We down here (not un-naturally,I suppose) have mostly our own home grown stuff :-),and don't get to play with many exotic species!Derek C and Philip M excluded! :-))
Thanks again,
Robin
[ooops, Steve and I were typing at t same time. His is better!]
Here's a quick read and pic to get you started:http://www.woodsthebest.com/ipe_decking/ipe-wood.htm
View Image
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/18/2009 10:50 pm by forestgirl
Dear Bill,
I would like to add an "amen" to all that has been written and I would like to add the following:
1) Breathing: Breathing is nice, breathing Ipe dust is not nice. I have been in the trades for over 25 years. I have seen what the dust does to my equipment. A respirator is definitely in order.
2) Splinters: new experience in pain.
3) Nailgun: Forget it.
4) Predrill:As my friend FG stated... everything.
5) Glue ups: PL Premium, Resorcinol, Titebond 3. But it doesn't really "glue up". Rely on mechanical fasteners.
6) It is brutal on tools.
Best,
John
Agree with all the above. Especially about the splinters. Wear LEATHER gloves when handling any rough stock, even surfaced stock!Along with wenge, for wear on tools, weight and pain on handling, ipe is a wood from hell. By comparison, teak is an absolute joy to use.Weight - anything as big as an armchair becomes insanely heavy. A small, delicately-proportioned chest is as heavy as a very large credenza made of cherry or maple.Glue ups: Glue surfaces MUST be freshly jointed. Epoxy or polyurethane (Gorilla) works very well. I've had several pieces with hairline (invisible) glue joints using these, no sign of glue line failure in a little over 2 years. (Yellow carpenter's glue should work well, also)I understand it is fantastically durable for outdoor decks, or floors of any kind, although kinda dark. But as a wood to use for any other purpose, it's not a pleasant experience, and furniture made of it is not particularly endearing.Rich
It would make a Great Jewery Vault!!
Taigert
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