Yesterday afternoon I applied Minwax Wipe-on over Ipe. Everything looked fine when I left the shop in the evening. I get back this morning and the surface still feels “soft” not exactly tacky but not the usual feel I’m use to with this product after 20 hours of drying. If I run my hand over the surface it leaves slight scuff marks (definitely not fully dried). I know Ipe is one of those funky wood with high resin content but is it so high that it impedes the curing of poly?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Ipe is a highly oily wood. The oils interfere with the curing of oil based finishes. Strip off the finish, apply a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac and then apply your oil based finish.
I have had problems with Minwax stains drying even on non-oily woods. I believe some of the solvents were removed that force drying so Minwax Company can conform to environmental restrictions.
SA
The procedure to use with Minwax oil based stain and with any oil based pigment stain is to apply it, let is set for 15 minutes and then wipe all the excess. At the end of wiping that should be very little residue left. If you leave the surface wet, it will not dry properly and any clear coat applied over it will not cure properly either.
The procedure to use with Minwax oil based stain and with any oil based pigment stain is to apply it, let is set for 15 minutes and then wipe all the excess. At the end of wiping that should be very little residue left. If you leave the surface wet, it will not dry properly and any clear coat applied over it will not cure properly either.
yes agreed - but the product still has drying problems,
SA
I don't think the original
I don't think the original poster's question concerned Minwax stain, but a Minwax Wipe-On varnish. There certainly have been others reporting the same drying problems, with Red Mahogany being frequently mentioned as a culprit.
If that's right, then the shellac barrier coat method that was already mentioned will work just fine.
Yeah I did put on several thin wash coats of shellac before applying the poly. I guess I had diluted the shellac flakes too much. However, things seem to be better than they were 2 days ago. The finish is pretty much hardened up now except for a few patches (some boards must have had more resin content in it than others). If those spots don't harden up by Monday I'll strip it all off and start over. At least now with most of it hardened up If I sand it off it won't be a total gummy mess.
The finish will most likely harden given enough time.
If you can wait it out - it might pay off rather then starting from scratch.
I finshed an oak top for a work bench with a brushing poly - it took a month before it was completely hard.
Many finishes and stains out there are trouble due to EPA standards,
SA
I have only used IPE a few times.. I think best for outdoors and just a stain if that is what you like. I would apply nothing but oil. But what do I know from my limited experience with it...
No other finish makes a rehab, when needed, very easy... Poly, I think, will just give you grief next year!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled