Replies

1. 
   JohnH | Jan 06, 2006 09:47pm | #1

   I'm building my second chest of drawers with frame and panel drawer fronts. The first chest's drawers each had a walnut frame and an inset bird's-eye maple veneer panel. By inset, I mean that the veneer panel was carefully made to just fit in the frame. Tedious!

   Getting a little smarter while getting a lot older, the second chest is simpler. The walnut frames are rabbeted on the inside edge deep enough to accept the bird's-eye veneer panels. Since the edge of the veneer panels is covered, the fit is not as critical and the work is not as tedious.

   In the second chest, the walnut frames are 3/16" thick by 1/2" wide. The veneer panels are a sandwich of veneer-plywood-veneer. The plywood is 1/32" baltic birch. The veneer panel sandwich is about 3/32" thick. So its front face is about 3/32" behind the front face of the walnut frame.

   For both chests, the drawers themselves are plywood. This may not be as pretty as other structures, but it sure is dimensionally stable over time. Here's a word of warning: if you use solid fronts behind the frames and have humidity variations (as in a kitchen) the front will expand and contract and stress the miter joints at the corners of the frames.

   Of course, be sure to use the same or similar veneer on the back side and the same finish. This avoids excessive distortion of the panel from the veneer glue curing and the finish curing.

   
   

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   Edited 1/6/2006 7:12 pm by JohnH

1. 
   bobk1 | Jan 07, 2006 08:32pm | #2

   Hi John,

   Thanks for the reply. My drawer-front frames are made from recovered (reclaimed) river pine and the panels are from "new" solid pine.  The drawer fronts will overlay the opening about 3/4 inch. My query concerning the installation of the fronts is related to the movement of the panel over time.   My thought right now is to use the screws that will secure the drawer pulls to also attach the false fronts to the baltic birch drawer boxes. My reasoning, of course, is that the central location of the screws will permit acceptable movement of the panel under varying moisture conditions.  But, because the panel floats in the frame, the frame will be free to move (from physical jarring or due to the panel moving);  this could cause a misalignment of the drawer frame that might be visually noticeable.  All of this, as you can see, is a little bit speculative at this stage and that is the reason I brought up the subject.  With a different overlay amount I could possibly secure both the panel (using the pull screws) and the frame to the drawer box front.  The frame would be secured with separate screws from the inside of the drawer box. Perhaps using "Spaceballs" or some equivalent centering means would take care of the alignment problem.  By the way the drawer pulls are from Lee Valley (00W8106).

   Bob

1. 
   ring | Jan 08, 2006 12:23am | #3

   Bob,

   I have always used screws from the inside of the drawer to the frame only, and never attached anything to the panels.  I personally prefer the handles attached to the frames as well, so that problem doesn't come up, but if I had to put a handle on the panel I would do it through the panel only, before mounting the false front, and not go through to the inside of the drawer.

   DR

2. 
   user-87461 | Jan 08, 2006 03:33am | #4

   Bob,

   I am a cabinetmaker for some 15 years. The only problems I foresee with your question is if the drawer fronts are quite wide (or high) across the grain being they are new pine. (hopefully kiln dried i am sure). Most panels under 8 inches of soft wood that is kiln dried will have seasonal movement under 1/16 in typical houses these days with the given interior climates most people set their houses at. In Canada anyway. shouldn't be a problem what you do.

    

1. 
   cicero | Jan 10, 2006 09:10pm | #5

   I have never had a problem screwing through drawer into a false front,and only use solid timber for drawer fronts.