Can someone shed some light on manufactured furniture for me?
I’m making a bed for some people, similar to one they found in a furniture store. The top rail on the headboard and footboard is narrow in the middle and wide on the ends. Basically it has “T’s” on the ends. My problem is that the inside corners have the same profile as the rest of the rail. BUT they didn’t just run the router around the whole thing because there is no rounded area above the corner. You know how the router can’t get all the way into a corner? Well, this looks like it has molding applied to the edge of the board but I can’t see any glue joint. Granted the piece was “antiqued” by the manufacturer so the grain is barely visible.
Anyway, anyone know how they do that? I’m thinking I’m going to have to make molding and apply it like trim, then assemble the bed.
Thanks
Replies
Ken,
I had to read your description a few times and think a bit and now understand what you are talking about. Scratch stock?
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
and now www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Ken,
Do you have a picture?
Jim
I tried to attach a picture but couldn't figure it out earlier. Here it is, I'm sure this will clear things up.
The scratch stock that was mentioned may work but I'm not sure how it's going to get into the corner cleanly.
Thanks for the responses.
You could initially route the molding, and then, using carving tools, clean out the corner to a crisp miter.
I must say that looking at the picture makes me think, or perhaps imagine, that the entire T wings were added, formed as a cope and stick joint to fit over the profile of the foot of the T. If you can look at the end away from the camera there just might be evidence of a grain change. I'm not sure that helps you reproduce it given the specialized tooling it would require.
Thanks, I was wondering if that was how they did it. I can't confirm it because these pictures were taken at a furniture store that is now out of business. I'll study the other pictures that I have to see if I can make out any grain.
Thanks again,
Ken
Ken,Maybe it's just my imagination, but I think that I see a small gap in a miter at the inside of the bottom corner in the photo.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodworks.com and http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
The molding was either routed out and then the inside corner was cleaned up with chisels, as suggested, or the moldings were applied. The conventional way to do this, and the best practice, would be to apply the moldings. If the detail was routed the short return moldings and the entire end molding would be end grain and which wouldn't finish well or look like a good match unless hidden by paint. While it would require some attention to detail, cutting and attaching the moldings wouldn't be especially difficult.John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
I appreciate everyones input on this. I'm going to be experimenting to see what works the best for me.
Question though, has anyone ever made a profile bullnose plane? I think that would fill the bill, if it's possible.
But, as John mentioned that still gives you the end grain issue.
Applying and mitering the molding to the edges hides end grain, and is probably the cleanest most straight forward way to go.
I have done the handwork to clean out the inside corner of tombstone door panel after routing the raised part. It is easier than it sounds and I was very pleased with my first time results. For a square shape such as that, though, I must say applied mouldings makes the grade. It eliminates the ugly end grain stain issues and is easy to do with the right tools- the small return pieces can be a challenge but that's what separates the men from the boys!
Possible they used matched cope-and-stick bits to join this....then applied a thin piece of solid stock on top?
Someone mentioned trying to cut that profile by hand...a bad idea on stain grade work, it'll not have the look/finish of the original.
Expert since 10 am.
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