I live in Mississippi. Several times of the year, we get a wicked combination for weather. It is a really humid warming after several days of cold.
Sunday evening I went out into the shop to check on things and saw my PM 2000 developing a bloom of rust. I rubbed it down with the only thing I had, 2 in 1 oil.
This morning every cast iron machine top looked like a refugee from Sanford & Sons.
Is there a product that is good to use to protect from rust? Also is there a product good for taking the rust out after the fact? The 2 in 1 oil did not appear to do any good. I had to rub the surface down with steel wool and it was a chore to remove the traces of rusty oil so I could cut.
Replies
I use a spray called TopCote. It's basically just wax, but it's easy to apply and works well. You can get it from Lee Valley or one of the other woodworking supply houses.
If you have a random-orbital sander, removing a small amount of surface rust is a piece of cake: Take an ordinary green ScotchBrite scrubbing pad (get it at the supermarket), attach it to the sander, and have at it.
-Steve
Friends
See my reply to Forestgirl. I did not see the replies until tonight and do not have enough time to reply to each of you individually. Every reply was helpful and very much appreciated. Is Knots great or what???
Fine scotchbrite to take off the rust, I like a couple applications of Boeshield topped with a buffed out coat of paste wax to protect the metal.
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It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
Put in a dehumidifier and empty it often.
also you may be looking for a good wax to cover cast iron and planes.
Try
BUTCHERS WAX, I like the amber version - some use the bowling alley version.
Here is the rub, many wood workers don't like it because the wax sets up hard. I like that both in tool care and wood finishing. Don't do bees wax, Johnson's or anything else, buy Butchers Amber Wax, I have used it for years in a cold shop and it eliminates rust. F/Y/I I live in Connecticut where we have to deal with high humidity and cold weather.
You will really like Butchers!
TT
Wow, what a bummer! Don't know how many tools you need to protect, but a good incandescent or halogen light shining on them should help. Is your shop insulated enough to heat? Electric heat would dry the air some in addition to keeping the temperature up a bit. A twin halogen worklight on a stand will warm up a corner pretty well, I use it when finishing to help heat an area.
When the electricians were wiring my shop a couple weeks ago, I had 3 benchtop tools sitting in a wagon, under a tarp, under cover for 24 hours. I had waxed one of the tables, my Steel City mortiser. All three had that red "bloom", though the Steel City it was only on the spots I didn't cover well. Really disgusting.
> When the electricians were wiring my shop a couple weeks ago, I had 3 benchtop tools sitting in a wagon, under a tarp, under cover for 24 hours. I had waxed one of the tables, my Steel City mortiser. All three had that red "bloom", though the Steel City it was only on the spots I didn't cover well. Really disgusting.When you store a car under a tarp for the winter, you put a small fan under there and run it all the time. The airflow helps prevent the moisture building on the surfaces. You might try that next time. Just tent the tarp over the table. Andy
After you remove the rust and wax the top you definitely need to keep your cast iron tops covered. The HTC covers are the best for this. I usually get the medium size, 36" by 54", and use two on jointers and other large woodworking tools. I use Renaissance wax on my cast iron tops and keep my woodworking tools covered when not in use. Any non-silicon wax will do but Renaissance wax is excellent IMHO. The link below is for HTC covers, read the reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/review/product/B000022628/ref=cm_cr_pr_redirect
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
For spot removal you could try Klingspor Sandflex Handblock. It's very like a sanding block, made in Germany, and comes in coarse, medium and fine. It rubs out the spot quickly, though it tends to leave a faint mark behind. I bought mine at LV, but it doesn't seem to be in the latest catalogue.
Jim
Hi coolbreeze,
The best thing I've found for rust prevention on machinery is Boeshield T9 followed by a coat of paste wax.
Once the surface is clean I like to saturate the top with the T9. Then rub it in with a circular motion while still wet. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so , wipe it down, then buff it out until dry. Follow with a coat of wax ( I use Turtle paste wax ).
After about 3 or 4 of these applications your rusting problems should be under control ( at least mine were ). Here on the Southern Oregon coast we get a fair amount of rainfall but nothing, I'm sure, like the humidity you folks get down on the gulf.
This has worked for me. Give it a try. Maybe it will work for you, too.
Paul
I hope you were talking about the powermatice when you stated "I rubbed it down with the only thing I had 2/1 oil". :)
I vote for dehumidifiers. Get a couple of them and drain them to the outside. I live in Chicago and in the summer it can get pretty humid and I ran the dehumidifer 24/7 with very good results.
To remove rust there is a product called evoporust. Works wonders. I used to take rust off an old #7 jointer plane.
kenney66
At least two magazine tests have shown that Boeshield T9 is the best protectorant. It works best if you apply a coat of furniture paste wax on top of it.
None of the other products tested protected for even 24 hours in a salt spray test. Just paste wax was the least effective.
Kenny was spot-on when he mentioned EvapoRust -- I didn't say anything because (a) I'd sound like a broken record and (b) it's easiest to use on things that you can submerge (which sorta excludes the PM66). However, they do make some kind of cloth thing or wipe you can put on. If you look around, you could probably find it. If the "bloom" is very light, steel wool and lubricant should do an OK job though.
Forestgirl, I went to Acadian Hardwood in Ponchatoula, LA yesterday with Mapleman. Today, I had a ton of things to do and when I logged in, I found 14 reply messages on the rust problem. I am going to have to resort to a reply to "All" and hope everyone who responded will get the message . I really do appreciate all the replies and want all to know that I appreciate them.
I appreciate your suggestion on the EvapoRust. I plan on getting that and some Boeshield as others have suggested.
My shop is insulated and I have most of the machines a woodworker needs. I do not have a lathe. I get most of my problem with the TS, jointer and drill press.
The reason for the late reply is that all my message notifications went to my old dial-up address. I have kept it for three months to be sure all have my email address change, I remember trying to get the change for Knots but couldn't find where on the website to request that change. Do you know where I can go to make the change with Knots?
I see Forestgirl hasn't read your message yet, so I'll jump in in case you're still on: go up top above the Fine WoodWorking logo and click on the "Update Profile." You can change your email address there.Dan
Dan,
Thanks. The email address has been changed.
Cool
There is an "Update Profile" link at the top of the page.
-Steve
Thanks, the email address has been changed.
Cool
Hi, CB. I did a quick search and haven't "re-found" the sheets, but I found the following on the EvapoRust FAQ page:
Q) How can I use it on a surface too large to soak?
A) A smooth paper towel can be soaked with Evapo-Rust and applied to the rusted area. After this is done, cover with plastic to prevent evaporation. When item is de-rusted rinse with water. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I can empathize with your problem being in south Louisiana and my "shop" being a open carport.
My best solution for my tablesaw is after cleaning I applied three very light coats of spray laquer. I then applied two coats of regular floor wax. It is fairly easy to spot the occasional scratch which I touchup with wax. Once the laquer has been worn enough, I plan to remove it and start over.
So far this treatment has lasted for about four months with regular use of the saw.
Hand tools are simply rubbed down with either wax or Marvel Mystery oil after each use.
Hal,
I can empathize with your problem being in south Louisiana
Wherabouts in South LA? Coolbreeze and I got together for a run to Acadian Hardwoods in Ponchatoula, LA today. Just wondering if you were in that vicinity.
Lee
I am in Baton Rouge. Where abouts in Ms.?
Hi Hal,
I'm just a stone's throw away in Picayune, MS. BR is not that far - if you get out this way drop me a line and maybe we can swap woodworking lies.
Cheers,
Lee
Same to ya Lee. How is Acadian Hardwoods?
Hi Hal,
Acadian is OK. I have bought some things from Hogan in BR when Acadian was out, and the prices are similar. The walnut is not so hot, and the cherry has too much sap for my tastes, but I do quite a few cabinet jobs in soft maple a year, and Acadian gets some really nice stock and I think I pay between $2.68-$3.19 or so a bf. They do carry quite a bit of sheet goods at competitive prices. Oh - and they have tons of cypress in any configuration possible.
Cheers,
Lee
Hl,
Mapleman can tell it 10 different ways without lying about it :-)
Well you've certainly received a lot of response - probably don't need more...
I'm in Houston, TX and image our climate is pretty much the same. I used to use floor wax but wasn't thoroughly happy with it.
To clean my cast iron tops I use the random orbitor sander with a Scoth-brite and denatured alcohol. I think turpintine might work just as well. I had some other woodworkers in the area recommend using a good car wax instead of the wood floor wax. Just made the switch about 6 weeks ago. So far so good! I really like it because it goes on thinner and I'm not constantly having to buff it - which I found myself doing with the floor wax. And it apprear to be really durable! Ask me again in a few months...
For chisels I keep them in a brown paper bag - seems to work. Also I'll put them in a tool box and just bring them inside. Sounds simple but that doesn't always happen but the brown paper bags works by a process called "magic". I'm sure someone has a better explaination but don't believe it...
:-)
I can't imagine working in a dry or even moderate climate! Good luck!
The boeshield rust remover did well for me recently. Unless I bought a bad bottle, make sure you have adequate ventilation, as it smelled a little like rotten eggs. Reminded me of using silver polish way back in the '60's.
About 5 years ago, I had the crazy idea of using the leaf blower to clear all the dust out of my garage shop. Then I went out of town for a long holiday weekend. The day I came back, it was a light rain/fog at 100% humidity.
With that high humidity, I went out to check on the tools after I returned home. I got a good lesson in roiling up ultra-fine dust, and have never let the leaf blower in the garage again. I believe at the time, I used some lamp oil (synthetic kerosene?) and 4x0 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease.
About a week later, menards had 2 HTC tool covers on clearance for about 10 bucks, so I bought 'em and called all the other stores looking for more. That was the last of them. Even so, I kept the tools off for about a three month stretch this summer. When I pulled the cover off the jointer, I was getting a build-up of rust, and ended up buying the boeshield rust remover. Make sure you protect parts you don't want the product to touch.
Outside of that, I have always used a product called slip-it as a lubricant/protectant. I have no complaints with the product. Before I gave the tools a little rest, the jointer did get quite a work-out face-jointing several hundred board-feet of cherry. Probably would have been wise to re-apply the slip-it instead of just relying on the HTC cover.
Redwoodie
Thanks for contributing. This week I ordered a combo of Boeshield and Rust Free from WW Supply. I already have a good supply of elbow grease. I just have to get motivated to open a can if it:-)
I think you will get to it right away. If you really need motivation, I doubt the Rust Free will do much for the pitting that will occur if you wait too long.
Anyway, good luck and I hope it works as well for you as it did for me!
I rubbed in some regular machine oil and worked it with steel wool. I am going to work them over good this week after I get my shipment. There are several other suggestions on this thread I will try. The main thing now is to be prepared for that next event.
Thanks
I live in FL between Tampa Bay & the gulf. When I go north in the spring I spray Top-Cote on all my cast iron & steel tools. When I come back in October, I just wipe off the coating & their ready to use. Haven't had a problem. I used to use Boeshield but it was too hard to get off after setting all summer. My shop is in a non-A/C garage & golf cart garage, gets pretty muggy.
James
g l sanders here..on the Mississippi Coast. I use wax to protect my tools from the invading rust. I have tried oil in years past but now rely on wax.
To remove existing wax, I polish the surface with a semi-fine grit of sandpaper (120) with my orbital disc sander and move to, at least, two finer grits to yield a nice finish.
Then I wax the surface with paste was, buffing it out with a piece of cotton cloth and my orbital sander. And I try not to put any vessel (soda can, coffee cup) that may impart moisture on the surface. I tried oil previously but learned that it can seep into wood I may leave lying on the surface. Wax won't seep or discolor the wood.
Thanks, Gayron.
I have some Boeshield coming. I have the rust removal and the preventive. I will do as you suggested.
I have a good friend who is in Carrier, MS and post on Knots under Mapleman. He is really a nice person. If you want to contact him, you can through Knots.
I live 15 miles west of Hattiesburg.
Coolbreeze
I've done a lot of car restoration and repair and when rust (never rests) comes along, steel wool helps but if you go down to an auto paint supply store you can get some pretty good stuff for chemicaly removing rust. Be carefull though because it can have diferent effects on both you and the metal. I left some parts in a tank too long once and when I took it out it would shatter with a hammer blow. After you clean it up I recomend a regular treatment of car wax on metal surfaces like saw tables to keep the brown stuff from coming back too soon. Using a trash bag as a dust cover will help too. For other machine parts, don't forget the WD40.
I had serious humidity problems in my basement workshop until I got a good Kenmore de-humidifier ($100 on clearance at Sears). The reservoir is permanently connected to a hose which flows into my sump, so I never even touch the thing. The problem has been virtually eliminated.
For storage and preservation of tools and bits, I use BoeShield T-9 and RustFree, and I use bowling alley wax (available in the paint section of HD) on my tool surfaces.
Hi Coolbreeze,
I use a good bees furniture-wax from Briwax.
I had the same problem with rust and after asking other machine and tool collectors they all found that the wax is the best thing.
The other advantage is that while using the machines the timber slides smoothly over the surfaces.
You still have to protect the tools/machines every few months but a quick coat and ready.
This is fast no fuss solution,
Cheerio Bernhard.
I'm a recent convert to Evapo-Rust dip product. I've tried many products, some of which are really nasty, and none work as simply and easily as Evapo-Rust. There are a few chelating agent products like Evapo-Rust and at least one of them I reviewed during my research has a gel form when you can't dip it.
from the Evapo-Rust FAQ's:
Q) How can I use it on a surface too large to soak?
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