Replies

1. 
   ring | Apr 30, 2008 07:18am | #1

   chip,

   My first question would be - If it is one unit, can you transport it and get it into the room where it needs to go? If you're sure that you can handle that part of the job, then make it as one piece.

   If you anticipate any problem with the logistics, then make it in 3 parts as you say. Ideally, the joints between the sections should have a reveal or other detail to make the joint seem like a design element. Even if you make the 3 separate cases, the bottommost piece (with plinth or legs) should be one long unit. Same goes for the 9' long top board. These should be full length, for assembly on site.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

2. 
   hammer1 | Apr 30, 2008 03:03pm | #2

   I think you have to consider moving the object, whether it's just in the shop, to the job or moving it in the future. There are two major ways furniture gets moved. One is vertically through a door, 6'6" is the maximum in that situation and that can be tight. The other thing to consider is hallways. They can be less than 36" wide, making turning difficult. You never know where your piece will end up 20 years down the road. Might as well make it adaptable. It will be a lot easier working on it, too. There are a number of ways to make it look like a continuous piece once it's put together.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   chippindustmaker | Apr 30, 2008 05:08pm | #3

   There is an outside door to the room that this piece will be going in, so getting it in isn't a problem if it is one piece. The shop is  24 x 36, with a full 4' wide door to get it out tho the loading area. Space isn't an issue, just "how to construct the base case work. Thank you all for your interest and ideas!

1. 
   hammer1 | May 01, 2008 04:00pm | #6

   You didn't provide much information on what you want to do. There are many ways to build a cabinet. You may be using all solid wood or you may be using plywood for some of the parts. Size considerations may go beyond you and the current owner. If history is any indication, the TV we are watching today will be significantly different a few years from now. I have built some entertainment centers that soon became obsolete. You still have to go with the customers wants, although they may be short sighted.There are many ways to build a base. Some may be inset, like kitchen cabinets, some may have "furniture base" others may be on legs. I often use plywood for carcass parts like bottoms. Since plywood is only 8' long, I would integrate the base with the cabinet for support, not make it separate. Many base supports are a ladder type frame. How you construct it is up to you, simple butt joints with screws or using joinery. That will depend on the design and the level of quality you want to attain. I recently built a console style cabinet for electronics and a flat screen will go on top. The cabinet is more of a piece of furniture and could serve many other uses. I started with a basic ladder frame but the bottom was integrated and constructed as frame and panels. I'm not sure if this is what you are asking. This piece is a bit different than a built in.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   chippindustmaker | May 01, 2008 05:12pm | #8

   Hammer,

   Beautiful work! That is the plan I'm going with. Building a ladder type base which 3 separate 3' drawer cases will sit on.

   I especially like the pipe insulation on the clamps!

   It's always hard to explain woodworking in words. I will post pictures as I go along with the project. 

   Thank you all for your ideas. Mental block is lifted now. (The rope holding it up tends to fray with time though, and will inevitably snap. I'll keep in touch :)

3. 
   terrylee86 | May 01, 2008 05:51am | #4

   If you have the space and the ease of moving one unit I would construct it in one case.  I would also retink your drawer glides.  I have used undermounts a lot lately and they are great to work with.  FWW just had an article on them and rated the Hettich Quadro the best buy.  They look much classier then sidemounts.  You can check them out at  http://www.chaircitysupply.com/.  If you buy a case (10) the price is about $20.  Just a thought.

4. 
   kovr | May 01, 2008 08:52am | #5

   I did a similarly huge tv cabinet for a client to their designers specifications a few years ago and had the tv roughly the same height(+/- 41") off the ground. Once in place the clients were only so/so with it because they felt the tv was too high off the ground which affected the picture quality in their smallish living room. I think I recall reading the best height off the ground is 30" for a tv. I was off the hook because I had done it to the plan and had tried to convince all parties involved to put the dvd, cd player etc overtop the tv. Anyhow you may want to cover your butt and confirm.

5. 
   dfletcher | May 01, 2008 04:07pm | #7

   Hello!

   I recently constructed a built-in wall unit for my son's bedroom.  The overall dimensions are similar to what you are building for your client.  I've attached a photo for your reference.

   From my experience, and from reading others' post, my suggestions are:

   • Build the unit in pieces:
   • Easier to install and move
   • Will it be attached to the wall?  If not:
   • Will the unit need to be dismantled and moved to another house/room someday?  Would it be an advantage to allow the unit to be rearranged in another configuration (maybe only two of the pieces instead of three)?

   My thinking is that something of this size will have a very specific purpose in life.  If you could somehow figure out a way to make it modular, you client might appreciate that fact in the future when they have to make a decision on whether the unit is a home fixture or a piece of furniture.

   -David

   
6. 
   veggiefahmah123 | May 01, 2008 11:28pm | #9

   Hope my wife doesn't read this post- should would pick up this new word--"BASEMENTAL" and I'd never live it down.  Describes how i feel about my shop perfectly.