I recently acquired a 13 yr old Craftsman contractor table saw Model 113.299510 with an Exact-i-Rip Model 3024 fence. I have two questions? First,I am not sure I have installed the rails in the correct place. I centered both the front and rear rails on the blade. But, I am not sure this is correct. Some of the illustrations in the instructions show the front and rear rails extending beyond the right extension further than I have them. Other illustrations look like they are centered on the table. Can anyone tell me if what I did is correct and if not where do I place them? Second, there is a separator channel that goes between the front and rear rails on the right end. Is it’s only purpose to give support to the front and rear rails and keep them parallel? Thanks in advance.
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Replies
If the ruler has already been applied to the front rail it can be used as a reference point to determine where to mount the front rail in relation to the blade. Just remember that the inch markings are to show under the "rip fence distance from blade indicator". Typically on contractor saws the rip fence rails extend further to the right of the blade than they do to the left. However, on some of these older Craftsman saws you could get rails that allow for a 24" rip either to the right or left of the blade. As you have the rails currently installed, can you set the rip fence to the right of the saw blade a minimum of 24" away so that you can rip a sheet of plywood to be at least 24" wide? If not, you need to remount the rails to allow for at least a 24" wide rip cut to the right of the blade.
The separator channel as you call it is designed to hold the rails a fixed distance apart at the far right ends of the rails where they extend beyond the table to the right of the blade. You can order a manual for this model saw from SearsPartsDirect.com that will give you setup instructions.
gdblake
Edited 4/13/2009 11:43 pm ET by gdblake
Thanks gdblake for your quick response. I do have the owners manual and that is part of my confusion and concern.To begin with, the instructions have dire warnings if the rails are not aligned properly, so I have been hesitant to experiment. Further, following the instructions puts the rails in a place where the tape will begin about 5 inches to the right of the blade and at the right edge of the right miter groove. The instructions read: "Align the 6-1/8 inch mark on the right rip scale with the right edge of the cast iron table top." Sounds simple, but as I stated above this means the 0 on the tape is at the right miter slot and 5 inches to the right of the blade. This doesn't seem correct to me. Also, the statement "right rip scale" implies there is a left scale, but there is only one 50 inch tape. Am I misreading the instructions?To answer your question: The tape is on the front rail. Of course I do not know if it was mounted correctly because I do not know if the one that is there came with the saw. It does run almost all the way to the right end of the rail. If I mount the front rail with the 0 on the tape lined up with the blade the left end of the rail is just inside the left extension with no overhang. Could that be right? The illustrations all show some amount of overhang on the left.The way I have it set up now, I have almost 28 inches to the right of the blade. The tape has 50 inches on it and I was told by the prior owner it was a 50 inch model which makes me thank 0 on the tape should be at the blade. How would you set it up?
If I mount the front rail with the 0 on the tape lined up with the blade the left end of the rail is just inside the left extension with no overhang.
I'm not familiar with your fence system but most fences have the reading indicator/crosshair on the right hand side and this would put the 0 reading further away from the blade, to the right. Kind of an offset which could be 5 to 6 inches.
If you laid the fence to the right of the blade and against it then line up the front rail so the reading shows 0 (zero) in the crosshair that might give you a clue as to how the rails should be mounted maybe?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
The zero on the ruler is suppose to line up with the distance indicator on the rip fence and not with the blade. Follow the instructions to line up the 6 1/8" mark with the right edge of the table. I suggest you go to Home Depot or some other store with tablesaws on display to an idea of how the rails align on contractor saws in relation to the blade.Gdblake
Edited 4/15/2009 12:17 am ET by gdblake
Thanks. I assumed the cross hair which is mounted on the fence was to be lined up with the fence so I could see on the tape where the fence is.I will follow your suggestion and go by a store and look at how they have been set up on other contractor saws. If I follow the instructions and place the 6 1/8 mark on the tape at the right edge of the cast iron table the beginning of the tape will be at the right edge of the right miter slot and about 5 inches from the blade. Also the left end of the rail will be inside the left extension. Are you saying this is normal? Thanks again for both of your continued help in working through this with me.
Yes, it is normal on contractor saws for the rails to not extend to the edge of the left side of the table. These saws are essentially designed to do most if not all of the ripping on the right side of the table. When the rip fence is touching the right side of the blade the crosshair (or pointer) should be at zero inches on the ruler.gdblake
What did you end up doing with your tablesaw rails? I got a chance to look at my old Craftsman saw on Sunday. My fence is slightly different than yours, but the right edge of the table lines up with the 6 7/8" mark on the ruler so following the instructions to set your right table edge at 6 1/8" per the instructions should be correct.
The distance crosshair on the T of the rip fence should point to 0" when the left side of the rip fence just touches the right side of the blade. I found a website that might help you.
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/craftsman-rip-fences.html
gdblake
Thanks gdblake. I should have posted this follow up earlier. I followed your advice and went by the local Woodcraft store and looked at a contractor saw and visited with one of their staff. The problem was that the distance cross hair had been set up on the left side of the fence by the prior owner. This meant the 6 1/8th mark did not make sense. When I moved it to the right side of the fence and set and aligned the fence per the instructions it worked out perfectly. The only thing that still is a little bothersome is that the left end of the front rail is about six inches inside the left extension instead of outside the extension as the illustrations in the instruction show. But it seems to be working fine so I believe I am good to go. Thanks again for taking all the time to help me and hopefully others will be able to learn from out exchange.My fence does not appear in the pictures on the linked web page, but it is very similar to the next to bottom photo.Thanks again.
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