Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 23, 2008 12:10am | #1

   The best approach is to completely strip the old paint and then prime and and paint with spray cans. Automotive engine enamels work the best. For touch up any black enamel applied with a brush will work but it won't be an invisible repair and may not last.

   John White

2. 
   gdblake | Apr 23, 2008 12:33am | #2

   John's suggestion of car enamel works.  I use a flat black and then top coat it with a satin clear coat for a more authentic look.  You can also get a can of asphaltum paint from the following link.

   http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.html

   The stuff is expensive, but its the real deal.

   
   

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   Edited 4/23/2008 9:12 am ET by gdblake

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 23, 2008 12:50am | #3

   There is little evidence for the black asphaltum paint being used on any but the earliest of tools. Once mass manufacturing became the norm, well over 100 years ago, manufacturers all started using "modern" enamel paints that aren't much different from what is being still sold today. In fact, asphaltum paint is really just an early preindustrial enamel in terms of its constituents and appearance.John White

1. 
   gdblake | Apr 23, 2008 04:34pm | #5

   John, at what point did Stanley make the switch over.  I have restored dozens of old Stanley planes and have always thought the jappaning from about the mid 1930s on seemed to be different product than the earlier Stanleys.  It also seems they changed the type of paint used again in the early 1950s.  I've never done any research or heavy reading on the subject and would be interested to learn more from someone who knows.   My view on the planes I've restored was that none of them are collectors items, just user tools.  In rejappaning the planes I wanted to keep the look authentic while providing a durable protective finish to the plane.

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 23, 2008 05:32pm | #6

   I have never seen an authoritative study on the history of the finishes used on Stanley planes over a century and a half, it would be a huge undertaking to research.Japanning was a "look", not a specific paint mixture. The original Japanning, as it was practiced in Asia starting centuries ago, was created from dozens of carefully built up layers of a lacquer made from tree sap, often with gold decorative patterns added.In the industrial age in America and Europe, Japanning was just a shiny finish, that stuck to metal, held up reasonably well, could be applied quickly and reliably to hundreds of pieces an hour, all at not too great a cost. There were dozens, if not hundreds, of formulas for Japan finishes, made by many manufacturers. There was no one right formula, and the finish didn't have to be black to be called Japanning. I am not a restoration expert so I can't tell you what the formulas were used by Stanley or the other tool companies at different times. Stanley probably didn't make their paints, at least once they started mass production. They would have purchased them from finish manufacturers, which would make researching the paints even more complicated, since the records of those companies would also have to be tracked down to get the actual formulas.I have had great luck with using spray can automotive engine enamels, they are formulated to hold up well on metal surfaces under demanding conditions and create a very shiny finish that smooths over the rough areas of the casings. To be honest, the collectors value of a refinished plane is pretty much ruined no matter how perfectly the finish is recreated, the Japanning is either the original and valuable, or it isn't the original and the actual formula of the new finish makes little difference. John White

1. 
   gdblake | Apr 23, 2008 08:27pm | #7

   Thanks for the information, I had no idea asphaltum paint fell out of favor that many years ago.   We're on the same page in terms of tool restoration and paint recommendation.  I agree, if you have a "collector tool" don't mess with it.  On the other hand, there are hundreds of old Bailey planes out there that will never be worth more than $50 that are fine user tools and can benefit from rust removal and a new paint job. 

   The only reason I gave the link to a company that sells asphaltum paint is that in these kind of postings, someone eventually asks for a source for real asphaltum paint to use on a tool they're fixing up.  I was trying to help those folks by posting a link before the question was asked.  

3. 
   derekcohen | Apr 23, 2008 07:53am | #4

   I used a cold curing japanning recipe to complete my Stanley #51/52. This is a mix of asphaltum (you can use roofing tar, or purchase asphatum from an art supply store) with gloss marine varnish.

   Mix to the consistency of paint, then apply in thin coats. Leave to dry for two weeks. You can speed up the initial drying by leaving the plane out in the sun for an hour or two. Just enough to warm up the iron, not enough to warp it.

   A tip - the japanning mix is self-levelling, so do one surface at a time until it is dryish and does not run.

   You will need several layers. It starts out a mess but evens up and goes a dark brown/black. You cannot mistake true japanning from paint. This is the Real McCoy.

   Of course, all existing surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned first.

   Here is the story of my #51/52 (so far), with pictures of this finish:

   http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/Restoring%20a%20Stanley%205152.html

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   troys | Apr 23, 2008 10:15pm | #8

   Super job on the 51/52 I keep hoping to see one of these at a thrift store for .99c but I don't think that will happen. Someday LN will make one of these with a bedrock frog and cause all of us tool junkies to have heart palpitations. Again great job.Troy