Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 19, 2006 03:47pm | #1

   A butt joint is a joint where the endgrain of one piece is connedted to another piece -- like a "T". What you describe doesn't sound like a butt joint. You may want to try to describe your joint a bit more and exactly what you are trying to do.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 19, 2006 04:12pm | #2

   If I read this right you are trying to join two boards edge to edge to create a wider panel with the wood grain running parallel to the glue joint. 

   The key to this is preparation of the stock before gluing.  Too much or too little pressure with clamps should make little difference except in how much glue has been squeezed out between the boards. 

   Both boards need to be flat, whether this comes from jointing the faces on a joiner of from hand planes or careful selection in the lumber yard.  You can't expect gluing them up to make more than a miniscule difference. 

   The edges must be joined need to be square.  Very square.  Again a jointer, or good techinique with a hand plane.  The edges must also be perfectly straight.  For the best work, you should be able to stand or clamp the first on edge on your bench and then stand the next board on edge on top of it in the same position as when glued, and be able to see no light anywhere between them in a dim room with a strong light shining behind them.  If there is any light it should not be at the ends, only a small amount in the center, so small that only gentle hand pressure should be enough to pull them together. 

   Clamps should only hold the boards in place and apply pressure to ensure that the glue is not too thick.  It should not do more than a tiny amount to pull wayward boards together.  Boards will stick together OK with a little less precision than I have outlined, but won't yield an invisible glue line. 

   
   

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   Edited 1/19/2006 8:26 am ET by SteveSchoene

1. 
   Samson | Jan 19, 2006 05:43pm | #4

   "The edges must be joined need to be square.  Very square."

   FWIW, the edges don't have to be square so long as they are complementary angles.  If jointing edges with a handplane, it's best to do the two edges that will be joined together (clamp them in the vise face to face).  That way, if you tilt the plane a little across the width of the two edges, the angles created will be complementary, and when joined, will produce a flat panel. 

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 19, 2006 06:54pm | #5

   This is of course true, and commonly offered advise.  But since I generally do the basic flattening on a power jointer, finishing with my no. 7 Bedrock for which I have a fence, I prefer to shoot for square.  Hence my methods. 

1. 
   Samson | Jan 19, 2006 08:02pm | #8

   Hey, no offense intended, Steve.  I was just pointing out a method well-known to woodworkers of the intermediate and advanced levels, but that might have been useful news to a newbie, especially one without much in the way of equipment and tools.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 19, 2006 09:10pm | #9

   None taken.  I was just explaning my oversight in not mentioning this. 

3. 
   JohnH | Jan 19, 2006 05:33pm | #3

   SteveSchoene gave you excellent advice. Another tool that will help you get edges that are straight, smooth, and perpendicular to the board face is the Ridgid EB4424 bench-mount oscillating belt sander running 120 grit or finer. I have had very good results with it.

   Just to reinforce SteveSchoene's advice: A little bit of patience and dedication to getting the edge right will be abundantly repaid in an invisible seam in a flat, true panel. You're going to be looking at it for the rest of your life. You want to be proud, not making excuses.

   Good luck on your project, John

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 19, 2006 06:59pm | #6

   That's interesting.  I have never thought a sanding platform would give a flat enough surface to achieve full contact side to side.  Can't really comment since I have never owned a stationary sander of any sort. 

1. 
   JohnH | Jan 19, 2006 07:42pm | #7

   Hi Steve,

   Using the Ridgid sander, it's easy to get the edges straight within 1/64" over a 24" length and a little touching up will produce gaps less than 1/128". I use Lee Valley Cabinetmaker's Glue 2002 GF which has "extra high gap-filling ability."

   For extra-good seams, I make a long sander out of square aluminum extrusion with adhesive-backed abrasive on one edge. The adjacent edge (perpendicular to the abrasive) is glued to a flat board. This keeps the touch-up flat over a long length and perpendicular to the face. Two or three strokes and the edge is a straight as can be detected.

   Just another method to the one you described.

4. 
   philip | Jan 20, 2006 09:53am | #10

   David, there is yet another way, assuming your boards are not more than 3 or 4 feet in length. You don't even need clamps or a power jointer-just your #5 6 or preferably #7 hand plane and some patience initially.
   You merely shoot the edges to be joined flat and square, hold one board edge up in the vice, apply glue and "rub" the two edges together whilst applying moderate hand pressure.It is strong enough if done well.
   Ofcourse the plane must be sharp and properly set. If you have some extra width to spare this is a way to practise planing without chewing up a lot of timber. Other posts have described how to test if the edges are good.

   Philip Marcou