Being basically cheap, I am sure I use sandpaper too long before replacing it but I really don’t know how long I should expect it to last. Does anybody have any guidelines based on feel or square feet of sanding? I know it would depend on backing, grit size and material, and type of wood but for discussion roughly how many square feet of sanding should I expect from a 5″, 80 grit, aluminum oxide disk with a random orbital sander sanding bandsawn hard maple?
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Replies
When you are spending 20 minutes sanding to save a 50 cent disk or sheet, it's time to replace it. Otherwise, just develop a feel for when it's not working well.
I find that hitting a sanding disc often with a gum rubber eraser greatly extends its life. Especially when you have a lumber that likes to "Pill" up the disc. Clean often to prevent the "pills".
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
The best bang for the buck IMHO is Abranet sanding discs. They seem expensive when you buy a pack, but one disc will last many, many times longer than a sheet or disc of sandpaper. The stuff is absolutely amazing!
I gotta run right now, but click here for the Woodcraft Abranet page. Discs can be found for less at other places, but you will need the "Interface Pad" (found just past half-way down the page) to make them work.
Can't say I was all that impressed with the Abranet. Especialy sanding lacquer between coats. The pad that goes between my sander and the Abranet disc (though compressible and thin has enough "give" to it that the medium tends to "ride the waves" so to speak. I invested $150.00 in discs last summer and the results I got were less than satisfactory. I ended up stripping the finish, starting over and ended up using traditional discs from Klingspor.
I haven't used it between finishes, just on raw wood. It far, far, far outlasts a sandpaper disc (I order from Klingspor also, my favorite) and dust collection is much better too.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Even though I do use Abranet as FG mentioned, I also use Micra Bulldog paper. There is a gum rubber thingy mounted on a piece of wood next to my workbench where I generally sand. That was mentioned also.
How do I know when to change paper as I doubt there is no scientific answer. I use the rubber gummy thing often to clean it. And I run my fingers over the paper between pieces. First I run my finger over a new piece of paper with the same grit that hasn't hasn't been used. Then I run my finger-tip over the current piece being used.
If I feel what I refer to as a hint of glaze, I simply take if off and put it aside as I can often use it on rounded corners.. etc.. where I don't want to be more aggressive. Then I replace old that just came off with new. I don't think there is a real answer but I do think that by trying to stretch it too far.. you will waste more time than money as time is money.
Sarge..
Edited 10/16/2008 12:40 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
"How do I know when to change paper as I doubt there is no scientific answer. I use the rubber gummy thing often to clean it. And I run my fingers over the paper between pieces. First I run my finger over a new piece of paper with the same grit that hasn't hasn't been used. Then I run my finger-tip over the current piece being used. "
I do the same thing. Works for me too.
Sometimes "simple" is best.. most of the time simple is best for that matter. Just a common sense approach and developing a "feel" which can't be pin-pointed by scientific methods either...
Regards...
Sarge,,
The risk of using sandpaper beyond its proper life is that you will BURNISH the wood. Any 'colorant" (stain, dye, etc.) will not take as well in the burnished area.
I know - Everyday I have to look at a section of a bookcase that was mis-treated with over-used paper.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Agreed Frosty.. even though burnish can be used in a positive way. I await cure on a Mission coffee table with end grain showing. I intentionally burnished the showing end grain and then applied a cost of de-waxed shellac before application of gel-stain to the entire top. I got the even match of end grain and top I was seeking.
Regards...
Sarge..
Right-on, Sarge!I forgot to mention the positive aspects of 'oversanding' end grain.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Start with an L-N 4 ½ with a nice sharp iron and you’ll cut way back on the amount of grinding required to get band-sawn hard maple finished. You can jump right to hand sanding with 220 or finer.
Marc Spagnuolo answered a simlar question on his blog several months ago: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/when-should-i-throw-away-sandpaper-question-of-the-week/
-Gina
Edited 10/17/2008 2:39 pm ET by GEide
If you really want to save money on sandpaper use these...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32670&cat=1,310,41069&ap=1
About the same cost as a packet of sandpaper and lasts forever.
Rob
Rob..
!Copied from Lee Valley Tools.! Not my words.. Below.
Most cabinet scrapers are sheared from spring steel, hardened to Rc38-42. These scrapers are harder (Rc48-52) and hold an edge longer. The edges are carefully milled to a square, sharp 90° ready for immediate use on fine work. For heavy-duty use, a hook must be burnished onto them. The prepared edges not only save you the initial effort of filing and stoning, but indicate the condition they should be in the next time you intend to put a hook on them.
Not my words.. Above either .
BUT I usually use my hand scrapers without a 'hook'. AS IN THE ABOVE!
OK, so sometimes a Hook is better, but not that often! For the hardwoods I use.
I have looked at the woods I use, Very hard.. Under a microscope.. Hardly any difference that I can tell.
I WILL STATE that I am NOT a good finisher so maybe it DOES make a difference?
My stuff turns out at least Ok or Better?
I grew up in my dad's body shop sanding cars by hand. One of his many pet peeves was sandpaper laying around that he said was still good. I thought it was worn out. One time he hired a painter that said to him during the interview "there's enough sandpaper out there to sand every car in the place!" Needless to say he got the job...but only lasted about two weeks.
You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Old Car junkie here.. One of his many pet peeves was sandpaper laying around that he said was still good. It was! Blow off with a compressor.. Perfect for final sanding@!
Perfect for final sanding@!
Thats where my dad and I disagreed. If you're using a worn out piece of 220, you cannot substitute it for 600. While sanding with the 220 you will always find that one nib of 220 that is still on the paper and it will ruin your fine finish.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Sanding hard maple right off a bandsaw with an r. o. sander is not the most efficient method.
If you have one, use a belt sander first then an r.o. sander.
As far as how long paper will last, there are too many variables to give an accurate answer. It's more a feel for the paper compared to new that you'll develop.
Expert since 10 am.
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