Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 21, 2004 03:56am | #1

   There are people here who are much more expert than me, but I'll tell you what I do.  (Then again, the experts don't have this problem!)

   I use ordinary latex wood filler purchased in a color that's a close match, perhaps on the light side.  Then after sanding, I carefully color in the filler with colored pencils.  If there is grain, I match the grain using different pencils.  I keep a stash of various shades of brown in the shop.  These are ordinary artist's pencils.  After coloring, I finish as usual.

   When I step back a few feet, I just admire the piece and can't see the touch up.  I'm too stubborn to wear glasses.

2. 
   joinerswork | Sep 21, 2004 05:05am | #2

   Jim,

   Depending on how big the gaps are, you can try:

   1) using finish to fill the gaps, before brushing the whole piece

   2) filling the crack with additional glue. Scrape level when dry.

   3) as above, but mix some fine walnut dust into the glue.  The gaps will be less noticeable if you try and match the walnut, rather than the maple.

   4) cut dainty wedges from matching walnut (offcuts from the board) with care to match grain direction, and glue into place.

   For future work, cutting the inlay with a slight taper on its perimeter will help eliminate the problem you have.

1. 
   Jimma | Sep 21, 2004 04:07pm | #3

   Good ideas. Thanks. I may have overstated the problem slightly in that the "cracks" for the most part are very narrow. Hardly noticeable, but there just the same. I think where I went wrong was in not resawing the maple into a thinner veneer which would have made it easier to cut to the pattern -- and also easier to taper the edges. But, what is, is. Would it work to incorporate walnut flour into some of the varnish to fill the cracks before putting on the varnish coat, or does it need to be a glue mixture?

1. 
   Clay | Sep 21, 2004 06:44pm | #4

   Really for very small gaps as you describe, color putty is quick and easy to use and available in several walnut tones.  Just rub it into the gaps and wipe off the surface with a dry cotton rag.  After a couple hours dry time polish off any haze with the dry rag.  Best strategy is to do this after the first coat of clear finish but before the final coat or two.  Let it dry 24 to 48 hours before finishing over it.  You can make it yourself by tinting Glaziers putty if you are ambitious or need an odd color.  You can also mix varied ready made tints to get better matched hues.

2. 
   joinerswork | Sep 21, 2004 07:34pm | #5

   Jim,

   Plasticwood is sawdust in lacquer (I think) so should work.  I've not tried it, as glue is what's on the bench when I screw up, and I'm too ornery to walk all the way to the finish room...

   Good luck,

   Ray

3. 
   tfk3160 | Oct 14, 2004 12:47am | #6

   I have put abalone inlay into a guitar finger board made of cocobola.  The person who sold me the abalone said (as another person posting did) to mix cocobola saw dust with epoxy.  The cocobola actually gives up some color to the epoxy.  I don't know if walnut will behave this way however you cannot see any gaps when the epoxy is dry, sanded flush to about 800 grit.  Hope this helps.

3. 
   RMillard | Oct 14, 2004 02:36am | #7

   Unfortunately, I know more about gaps in inlays than I'd like to. If they are very small as you describe, the best thing to use is the clear burn in sticks. This stuff is great and I couldn't finish a piece without it. If the gaps are bigger, then the colored burn in sticks are the best thing to use. These are much better than the paste type wood fillers and in most cases better than sawdust. They come in many colors, and can be melted together to produce a custom color. The most inconspicuous repairs come with the darker sticks. I've found it pretty difficult to fill gaps in light colored wood and have the result be acceptable.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   Jimma | Oct 14, 2004 03:41am | #8

   TFK and Ray -- good ideas, but I'm committed to using the ol' walnut-flour-in-glue method since the gaps are very, very small and there will be a lot of varnish over them. The inlays already have several coats of shellac on them and walnut will get a sealer coat before adding in the filler. I think the best suggestion for the next time was to cut the inlays with about a five-degree bevel. I now understand this is the way the pros do it. If I can get this clock finished within the next couple of weeks, I'll post a photo. Thanks for your ideas.