Replies

1. 
   Jimurock | May 02, 2009 03:38pm | #1

   It cuts very easily.  For making runners you'd get a more precise cut from a tablesaw.  It's a bit messy to work with because the "sawdust" from it tends to attach itself to whatever blade and tool surface you use.  You can vacuum it off, and for me that's easier on the TS.  If you've never used the stuff for runners before, there are 1 or 2 issues with attaching the runner -- you have to screw, not glue, since regular glue won't work.  When you use screws there tends to be blowout where the runner meets the wood, which you can avoid by countersinking the UHMW at entry and exit points.  There should be some discussions of this on file.

   Jim

2. 
   boilerbay | May 02, 2009 04:16pm | #2

   Jeff,

   This has been well covered in "sled" questions and also in "TS fence" questions. I think you will get all your answers by just doing a search for "UHMW". For runners, I cut mine on a TS and then take down to final height and smoothness with a smoothing plane. The last I used came off a Woodcraft slab (3/4" x 4"x 36") and found the 3/4 inch stock is just a tad thicker and thus "just" fits with little adjustment in a miter slot.

   Boiler

3. 
   saschafer | May 02, 2009 08:30pm | #3

   The "ideal" blade for UHMW is probably a negative rake carbide blade (like you find in a miter saw). If you use your bandsaw, you don't want too coarse a blade, as it will tend to grab and tear, because of the high rake angle.

   -Steve

4. 
   JohnWW | May 05, 2009 03:11am | #4

   Another point of view:

   Almost all of the friction that makes it hard to push a sled comes from the bottom of the sled sliding on the saw table, the friction of the bar in the slot is negligible, you are wasting your time trying to make the bar out of UHMW plastic which has several drawbacks in preparing and installing, are difficult to keep even moderately accurate.

   For a sled that won't get a lot of use a wood bar is adequate if the wood is carefully chosen. For moderate use a bar cut from Baltic birch plywood is easy to make from scrap and is very stable and wears well. I make most of my sleds with Baltic birch runners.

   For heavy duty use a steel bar is the proper choice, although aluminum will also work, but wear quicker.

   John White
   Shop Manager, FWW Magazine 1998-2006

1. 
   Cincinnati | May 05, 2009 05:37am | #5

   I agree that most friction is where the sled and table slide against each other. I am thinking of adding UHMW tape strips to the sled bottom. My idea is to add two 3" x 0.031" strips to the sled bottom on each side of the blade.

   I'm building my next sled from phenolic coated plywood. I thought I'd try the phenolic first. Then add the tape if need be.

   Have you tried UHMW Tape?

    

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35<!---->

   Edited 5/4/2009 10:44 pm by Cincinnati

1. 
   JohnWW | May 07, 2009 05:10pm | #6

   Greg,I have some limited experience with the tape on jig fences and the like, where it works well, but I have never tried it on the bottom of a sled. I suspect that it may have problems staying attached to the sled's bottom surface. I have found that a quick coat of wax on the saw's table and the bottom of the sled makes for easy sliding but the wax does need to be renewed occasionally.John W.

5. 
   tmcameron07 | May 03, 2011 01:55pm | #7

   UHMW is a great material for sliding applications. A bandsaw should be ok. I buy UHMW for wear pads all time from High-Tech Plastics 

   Great material and cuts well. You shouldn't have a problem with it.