Hi. I have a slab of sapodilla, a beautiful wood, salvaged after a Florida hurricane. It’s about 5 and 1/2 feet long, 1 and 1/2 inches thick, and averages about 18 inches in width. I’d like to use it as a decorative table with long legs placed against a wall. I envision about 8 slender legs forming a crescent from one front corner to the other.
I don’t want any aprons or other devices connecting the slab to the legs to be visible. How would you connect the legs? Is my idea even feasible?
Thanks in advance. Paul
Replies
Wedged through-tenons, right through the slab. You could turn the legs and tenons round, or chisel square ones. Be careful when wedging them not to split the slab; exert the pressure in the long-grain direction.
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
The OP stated "I don't want any aprons or other devices connecting the slab to the legs to be visible. How would you connect the legs? Is my idea even feasible?" SO, I assume through tenons are visible. Your constraints make it difficult to have a structurally sound design. Am I understanding that you do not want the legs connected to eachother other than by the top?If so, since you are using the table against a wall, can you make a wall mount and use the slender legs just to support the slab vertically? The wall mount will handle all torsional and racking forces.Greg••••••• Exo 35:30-35
Edited 6/8/2008 9:06 am by Cincinnati
Greg,
My assumption was that the OP didn't want anything like an apron spoiling the lines of his table. Of course through tenons can be noticed but they don't influence the lines of the piece. To my way of thinking, anyone who wants to use a slab "as is" wouldn't feel compelled to hide the joinery. But of course they could also be made blind (like Jamie said).
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
David,I apologize for the wording in my reply. After re-reading, I didn't intend on stating the obvious about "assuming through tenons would be visible". I was thinking of recommending blind tenons, but with perhaps a 1" tenon on those legs, I don't like that design for structural stability. I suppose it would be OK if the maker were proficient with milling and gluing proper fitting M/T joinery.Greg
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Exo 35:30-35<!---->
Yes, Greg. Your asumptions are correct. Paul
PVC,
I agree with Ring. I have seen many crude "Peasant slab" backless seated chairs and benches (3 and 4 and 6 legged)in Europe and here and they have certainly passed the test of time. I'm certain a more refined version would be more than strong, stable and handsome. Through tenon and peg. Be careful about "slender" and too little a crescent layout. Too thin and they would be out of balance with the aesthetic of the total. If they are to be but a single row of legs, I would think the farthest most outboard legs (tips of the crescent) would have a disproportionate weight and balance load. Perhaps a double row of 4s? Perhaps other have some thoughts.
BB
edit: spelling
Edited 6/8/2008 9:37 am by boilerbay
When I took high school shop (shortly after the earth cooled), I made an end table with store-bought turned legs. The legs screwed into plates that were attached to the bottom of the table top. IIRC, the plates allowed the legs to be screwed in straight or slightly angled.
I haven't seen those for years, but would bet that they're still around.
Ditto Ring as you aren't presented with many options. But... the original French (?) Roubo work-benches were nothing more than a slab with four legs tied together with through tenons. So...
Sarge..
Opps Dave... meant for OP but clicked on your post to reply.. Sorry...
Edited 6/8/2008 10:12 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
The tenons don't have to be through-tenons. Woodworkers love visible joinery, but not everybody does. If each of 8 legs has a 1 1/4" deep mortise at the top, the table will work. I'd pick up the table to move it, not drag it.
Many thanks to all for the comments. Extremely helpful and greatly appreciated. Paul
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