hi, i did a dry wipe, not a flood coat on hard maple, how soon can i shellac over it? thanks to all, dave
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Replies
Until a paper towel buffed across the surface shows almost no oil residue at all - three days or so in a climate controlled shop or your house most likely.
Edited 6/27/2004 4:31 pm ET by cstanford
Dave,
I agree with what cstanford said--except for the "almost" part.
IMHO you've got to wait until the oil has completely cured. That means it must pass the paper towel test, but it must also pass the sniff test: if you can still smell the oil, wait until you cannot.
It's certainly true that any oil can take a good long while to completely cure. It may take several weeks--or even months--depending on the usual stuff.
Cstanford may be correct that it's safe after there's no more oil on the surface; but I belong to the "better safe than sorry" school. A search of the archives will produce a number of horror stories that begin with "I used [blank] oil and then top coated it with [blank]"(fill in the blanks with your favorite oil and film finish).
I'll also--yet again--cite my favorite absolute finishing rule: when you're finishing wood there should be no surprises. This means, of course, that you should test all this out before you put all your hard work at risk. Testing will answer all your questions about how long it takes to cure, how soon you can put on a top coat, compatibility of the products, etc., etc., etc.
Alan
At the other end of the spectrum, there is the Tage Frid "4-F" technique. You wipe on oil, then immediately brush on shellac, wait for it to get tacky, then rub off the excess with steel wool. This gives an instant finish that approximates the look of multiple coats of oil. It's a little tricky, as you have to work fast to get all the excess off before the shellac dries, but I have done it successfully.
Here's something to consider for next time, though: If you are going to use shellac as a finish, why bother with the oil at all? What does it gain you? Instead, start with a 1-lb cut of shellac, do a couple of coats with that, then build the finish with 2 or 3 lb cuts. You can use different grades of shellac to color the wood with the initial applications. I think blonde or almost-blonde will color wood about like BLO does, but haven't checked on light wood like maple.
Skipping the oil saves you several days of drying time, and eliminates the concern over adhesion.
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler." A. Einstein
http://www.albionworks.net
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