Replies

1. 
   TMitchell | Apr 01, 2009 03:03am | #1

   I have no research to back this up, but I've done my share of tennons on the bandsaw and never used them right off the blade.  Always cut them slightly oversized and take the marks off with a rabbit block plane or shoulder plane.

   Recently I started using a router plane and a matching stile/rail to trim the tennon flat which works quite well... of course not if you don't have a router plane already.

   If you do a lot of tennons, look for a sale on a tennoning jig (got mine at woodcraft for $60) and be done with the whole problem.  In my opinion there's no better way to cut tennon faces.

   I'd be learly of sanding as it will be hard to keep the tennon faces flat.

    

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   Edited 3/31/2009 8:04 pm ET by TMitchell

   
   

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   Edited 3/31/2009 8:06 pm ET by TMitchell

2. 
   gofigure57 | Apr 01, 2009 03:11pm | #2

        Hi David,

   I cut them on the bandsaw as well and never think twice about it.  Depending on the blade,  the tenon faces cut on the bandsaw would more closely resemble those cut in the traditional method with a hand saw.

   I have a Delta tenon jig for the table saw , I am sure it is just me but I do not like pushing stock through the table saw in that manner.

   Personally I think to much fuss is made about piston fits for mortise and tenon work , just my  opinion.  When I dry fit my parts I always need a deadblow to tap them apart, when glued up I have no concern about  the integrity of the joint cut from the bandsaw.

          Tom

    

   
1. 
   romano | Apr 01, 2009 05:02pm | #3

   Thanks guys, I'm not to be a scientist about it either.  Still, the tenons in the pics look pretty nice, and my gut feeling is that mine should be a bit smoother than they are. I have to tap mine together with a mallet, but I can't be sure if the resistance is met all at one spot or if the surfaces are flush. Maybe a nother question to ask would be this:

   How much gap can a PVA glue fill and still maintain it's strength?

    

   David

1. 
   BG | Apr 02, 2009 03:22am | #5

   romano,I've tried the TS, BS and tenon jig methods and, agree with others, the tenon method produces the smoothest cuts. I suspect a lot has to do with the flatness of your stock on the TS and maybe the blade type with the BS, however, those issues are moot with the tenon jig.

2. 
   sierramtns | Apr 02, 2009 03:04am | #4

   Nicely done tenons

3. 
   dustymctevish | Apr 02, 2009 05:32pm | #6

   The only time I make smooth tenons is when they are to be used as through tenons where they will be seen, other times it doesn’t matter as long as you have a good fit.

    

   DustyMc

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Apr 02, 2009 06:22pm | #7

   "the cheeks are not as smooth as they'd be if I cut the tenon with the tablesaw or router. I'm wondering if the joint strength is reduced significantly by this".

   thanks

   David

   ******

   I cut tenons with a hand saw for years.. then a BS and recently switched to the TS using a flat tooth rip blade to produce flat cheeks. But... to answer your question will not being smooth reduce the joint strength... I would personally say No as I have tenons that have held for over 30 years that were assembled with other than a smooth surface.

   Sarge..

5. 
   THintz | Apr 02, 2009 08:16pm | #8

   I cut most of my tenons on the table saw but use them as they come off of whatever tool I do use. I can't see the point in smoothing out the little rough texture that gives the glue so many nifty places to bite. If I get the tenon so it is tap-in-snug, the layer of glue and that slightly rough surface mean it is forever locked together when the glue sets up.

   Tom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

1. 
   romano | Apr 03, 2009 12:51am | #9

   Thanks alot for the advice guys. I'll just do my best to cut them smooth on the bandsaw and go from there!

   David

6. 
   PhillipB | Apr 04, 2009 05:01am | #10

   David,

   Have you considered floating tenons?

   I have found these to save lots of expensive wood and they make dimensioning your stock much easier as you do not have to figure in the tenons on each piece. All you have to do is make mortices on each end and you're good to go.

   I made my own mortice rig as seen in the photo below.

   Best of luck,
   Phillip

   
1. 
   romano | Apr 04, 2009 02:58pm | #11

   I thought they were great when I started, but I gave up on loose tenons for a couple of reasons.  First, it is twice as much glueing so I found that glue ups were taking too long. Also, I really do not enjoy router work which is the only practical way to cut the mortise in the end of the board. It's loud, messy and the setups take too long. Besides, I've have too many near accidents with the things. The bandsaw is much tamer and I can glue the cheeks back on if I really screw it up. The tablesaw is perfect for sharp shoulders and cutting stock to length.

    

   David

1. 
   Ron01960 | Apr 04, 2009 03:50pm | #12

   This is the most clever and innovative design for making tenons with a router...!!..???http://southcoast.craigslist.org/tls/1090072889.htmlenjoy
   Ron