Replies

1. 
   BG | Dec 16, 2002 10:05pm | #1

   Campbem,

   The square foot coverage is listed on the can.  Now, if you cut the shellac then it will cover more...in either successive coats, or initial area.  good luck

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 16, 2002 11:45pm | #3

   You will cover more but it will be a thinner coat and therefore, maybe not as protective. The coverage stated on the can is based on a certain film thickness.

2. 
   JHARDE02 | Dec 16, 2002 10:15pm | #2

   Buy it in flakes, and it'll last for 972 years.  Only mix up what you need to cover the area.

   Regards,

   John

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 17, 2002 01:25am | #4

   >> Buy it in flakes, and it'll last for 972 years ...

   ... if you keep it cool and dry

3. 
   Marcello | Dec 17, 2002 01:56am | #5

   It depends on how many coats you want to put on and the depth of finish you want to see:

     The first coat will seal the wood and will be absorbed very rapidly.  The second coat is somewhat of a transition to the layer over layer look of shellac.  I usually put on 3 coats minimum and am working of a piece of furniture which has 10 coats.  Big difference between one and three coats - all this is based on padding the shellac.  If you use a brush, the film will be much thicker and maybe you won't need more than two coats.  It dries very quickly and you can put the second coat in a couple of hours.  A gallon of Bull's Eye Shellac costs about $19 and is ready for use.  Try some samples and see the look you want to achieve. 

   A few things to remembering when using shellac:

   1.  Work quickly as it dries quickly.

   2.  Keep the brush fully loaded - use a good natural bristle brush.

   3.  Avoid overworking an area.  As soon as it starts to feel sticky move on.

   4.  Keep a close eye on drips, once they are dry it is a bugger to clean them off.

1. 
   tv190s | Dec 17, 2002 03:30pm | #6

   OK, now you've provoked more questions -

   I didn't think about the "how many coats" deal. I guess in my head I was

   just thinking about putting one coat on (to add a warm look to the white oak) and then finish it off with 2-3 coats of polyurethane.

   So, I'm assuming no matter how many coats of shellac I put on, I can still put a finish of poly on afterwards?

   Where would one buy Bulls Eye shellac? Also, is it waxed or not?

   Thanks for the insight.

   Matt

   Edited 12/17/2002 7:49:38 AM ET by campbem

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 17, 2002 06:03pm | #7

   Matt, if you plan to overcoat the shellac with polyurethane varnish, the shellac must be dewaxed. Zinsser's Bulls Eye is not dewaxed--it contains the natural wax that is found in all shellac. Poly has low adhesive properties and will not hold well on that shellac.

   Zinsser has a product called "Seal Coat" which is a 2# cut of 100% dewaxed shellac. It is blond though and will add little or no color to most woods.

   If you want an amber or yellow dewaxed shellac, you will have to order some dry flakes and mix your own. Go to: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com.

2. 
   Marcello | Dec 17, 2002 06:38pm | #8

   Matt, 

   I believe Howie answered your questions on the Shellac / Poly mixture.  I agree with him on their incompatibility, I haven't tried the Seal Coat with polyurethane though, I'd still be hesitant.  Test pieces first.  The Bull's Eye and other Zinsser products can be found at you friendly neighborhood Home Depot.

   Marcello

   Edited 12/17/2002 10:39:23 AM ET by TMARCELLO

3. 
   TJinFL | Dec 18, 2002 04:50pm | #9

   I just completed two walnut end tables using aniline dye mixed with denatured alcohol, Zinsser's dewaxed Shellac and Fuhr 355 acrylic varnish.  They turned our great.  I put one coat of the dewaxed shellac to bring out the grain and then brushed on 3 coats of Fuhr 355 to protect it.  I have to say that the Fuhr 355 is the best water based finish I've ever seen.  You can brush on coats that come close to the finish you get with spraying.  I plan to spray 2-3 coats once I've gotten my garage back in order.  You can also get the Fuhr 355 at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com.  Good luck.

   Terry in Delray Beach, FL

   Edited 12/18/2002 8:50:43 AM ET by TJINFL

   Edited 12/18/2002 8:51:11 AM ET by TJINFL

1. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 19, 2002 05:10pm | #10

   How did you apply the dye?  Was it mixed with the shellac, or was it put on first, right on the bare wood.  If placed directly onto the bare wood, was it brushed, wiped, or sprayed? 

   I just bought a gun, and am going to learn to spray, and can tell you that I am thoroughly intimidated at this early juncture.  The thought of trashing a piece that I have 6 months of work into already is terrifying.  Building the spray booth now; at it soon, I hope.  All suggestions and advice are welcomed.

1. 
   BG | Dec 19, 2002 05:17pm | #11

   Just a note:

   When they demoed the spary guns at Woodcraft, they used sheets of cardboard to practice on first...rythem and spary volume...

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 19, 2002 08:27pm | #13

   In the shop I was involved with, new apprentice finishers spent a number of days spraying first water, then finishes onto cardboard boxes. We always let them try to spray the insides and laughed like hxxx when they got their face full of blowback. But, it taught them the lesson about the difficulties in spraying inside of enclosed spaces.

3. 
   TJinFL | Dec 19, 2002 07:07pm | #12

   s4s

   I wiped it on and didn't have any of the problems others have described with alcohol based dyes (streaking).  However, I was working on a small project (end tables), so I would guess this method could be problematic on larger projects.  I too have a sprayer, but haven't fired it up yet.  Let me know how it works out.  Good Luck on your project.

   Terry in Delray Beach, FL

4. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 19, 2002 09:23pm | #14

   I tried to email you, but it came back to me as not deliverable.  you might want to update your email address.