Replies

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 15, 2004 07:14pm | #1

   On the one I made, I didn't have a band saw and wasn't going to cut by hand, so I marked the lines and did it with a jig saw. They aren't totally even and it works fine. How much time is it worth when you can buy one for $10?

   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
1. 
   RickL | Dec 15, 2004 08:10pm | #2

   http://www.woodzone.com/tips/featherboard.htm

   http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hi_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_13936_3379332,00.html

   Why would one suggest to buy such a basic item? The whole idea of woodworking is to make things yourself especially if you can make it faster than  you could order it.

2. 
   douglas2cats | Dec 15, 2004 08:15pm | #3

   I just did mine with a bandsaw. But I remember seeing a WW mag article years ago where somebody made them on a tablesaw with something that reminded me of a box-joint making jig. Except that instead of being mounted to the miter guide, it was some type of small sled and the guidepost was mounted vertically on the sled. I think he was using a mitred piece of scrap as some sort of stop block for the sled. I'm real fuzzy on the details though. Something like that might get the fingers a more consistent thickness, but the end of the cut would end up following the sawblade curve - although I guess that wouldn't be too bad.

    

3. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 15, 2004 08:19pm | #4

   I prefer to use a single wooden finger rather than a featherboard.  I cut the fingers with a jigsaw and then smooth them and thin the spine with a vertical spindle sander or on my belt sander.  I cut them so that they have a thick base for clamping and a thin spine for flexing and a small bulb at the end for wear.   I will use one or two in front of the saw blade for most cuts (two for larger pieces of wood) .  For precision cutting of dadoes or slots I will also use a finger behind the blade.  I usually use oak.  I find that I can control the pressure much more accurately this way.  Basically I am using the wooden fingers as tireless and expendable replacements for my own precious digits.

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 15, 2004 08:27pm | #5

   Easy, big guy. I was just asking. I made mine and expect to make several more. I think most of us have enough scrap pieces and the desire to innovate or improve on what's already out there to come up with some interesting variations.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

4. 
   DennisS | Dec 16, 2004 06:06am | #6

   Burt -

   I took a piece of scrap ash (nice and springy), cut one end at 45 degrees then measured back about 6"and marked anot her 45 degree line. The line was the depth of the 'fingers'. Then cut several lengths of 1/8" masonite about 1" wide for spacers. Used a band saw to cut the kerfs starting with most of the stock against the fence then adding masonite strip for each subsequent kerf. Trick I found with masonite (I's as anal about this as you are -hehe-) is to sand the fuzz off the cut edges before using them as spacers. Use the tempered masonite if you can - it holds up better than the untempered.

   ...........
   From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
   Dennis
1. 
   highfigh | Dec 16, 2004 06:27am | #7

   Did you sand the edges or file them? I usually file them flat and bevel them after. If the edge lifts a little, it can be filed flat and good as new.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

5. 
   RANGERP75R | Dec 16, 2004 06:47am | #8

      I use oak scrap several feet long. Scribe a line the length of the board to the height I want the feather. Put a dot on the line every 3/8". Take a bevel and set it to a 38* degree angle and set it on top the board. Scribe a line on each dot to the bottom of the board.

      Clamp a wooden fence to the face of the miter gauge on the TS and put the outside kerf on the the line. Cut to depth of line and kill the saw with my knee instead of withdrawing with the saw running. When all the lines are complete, cross-cut the board to the lenght I want the feather-boards. Several are now cut off one board.

      The back side of the feather boards will have and arc where the saw blade forward cutting teeth have gone beyond the line. Who cares, as I have several feather boards off one piece of long scrap and the asthetics of the feather don't contribute one i-ota to the asthetics of the furniture that will be built using them as an aid. Cheap an a no-brainer..

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

   Proud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

6. 
   notDusty | Dec 16, 2004 07:36am | #9

                                Burt ,

                 IMHO having nice even cuts or fingers is not a requirement or criteria for a good working feather board . Obviously smaller fingers are going to hold better than a few great big wide ones like 1" apart . I use them on some of my shapers as hold downs as well as on certain cuts on the router table .All of the ones I have made and use daily were free hand cut on the bandsaw , the stock dosen't seem to know the difference . I cut the angle first then the slots or fingers . Whether they look uneven or not they sure work great .

                                             dusty

7. 
   jackplane | Dec 16, 2004 05:52pm | #10

   I trace a  TS throat plate on a piece of 1/2" thick stock. Cut in half at 45*.

   Freehand draw parrallel lines(not too difficult with practice) and cut on bandsaw.Now you have two.

8. 
   GACCDallas | Dec 17, 2004 01:16am | #11

   We make tons of them using scrap oak.  I take a piece about 12" long and 5" wide or whatever size I need, cut a 45 degree (or whatever angle I need) crosscut on the face of it and like has been said, draw a line of the same angle across the face about 6" down or so depending on how flexible you want it to be.  Then I set my table saw fence about 1/4" away from the blade and rip and stop on the line - there's your first feather.  Then keep moving the fence away from the blade in about 1/4" increments and you'll get 1/8" feathers and 1/8" kerf between them.  When you get to the edge of the board, take the last rip all the way through. 

   Even feathers every time.

   Ed. Williams

1. 
   BBob | Dec 17, 2004 01:50am | #12

   What I'm really after is symmetry of cuts, that is, the ability to make a series of exact duplicate cuts. I have tried scoring, marking, measuring, stacked strips, and using the rail but my results are barely OK. I haven't been able to figure out a jig that would give me control over tine width and spacing. Maybe that's what I'm looking for.Any suggestions?Thanks,
   Burt

1. 
   GACCDallas | Dec 17, 2004 02:03am | #13

   Burt,

   Why?

   Ed.

2. 
   notDusty | Dec 17, 2004 03:40am | #14

                       Burt ,

           A finger joint or box joint jig will ultimately index your series of cuts . At least on the TS it works .  

            Sure hope this helps your dilema .

                                           dusty

3. 
   forestgirl | Dec 17, 2004 09:40am | #15

   Burt, I haven't made a featherboard myself (I'm a magnet freak, and also inherited a couple of handmade featherboards), but my sleepy brain is envisioning some kind of sled with perfectly spaced grooves on the bottom, to carry your featherboard blank.  The grooves would index on a fixed bar placed in your miter slot, with a few screws that stick up for the grooves to ride on.

   This is definitely "thinking outside the box" as I'd probably not go to that much trouble, LOL!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   RANGERP75R | Dec 18, 2004 07:00am | #17

   Burt

      I mentioned a method in my earlier post that called for a scribed height line, placing a dot every 3/8" and then using a bevel set at 38* to scribe a line through each dot. Then placing the outer edge of the TS blade curve on a given side of the dot and cutting to the height line.

      Unless you have an unusual TS blade that cuts eratic or you don't follow the directions all feathers are the same width and are spaced the same. You could make a jig, but unless you are going into mass production of feather-boards why bother. By the time you design and make the jig, you could have cut quite a few without one.

     I have 6 feather-boards I cut 25 to 30 years ago and they still work fine. I would just cut some and move on to another project that will help futher your ability. You like to build jigs, I would build a tenoning jig. Now that's worthwhile. Just my opinion of course.

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   hammer1 | Dec 18, 2004 10:23am | #18

   Do you have a tape or measurements on the table saw fence rail? Long thin fingers will conform better to slight variations in board width. 3/16" x 8" works well with a 1/8" saw kerf between each finger. You won't have to overpower their grip when feeding like short fingers. The feather boards I use flat on the table tops are figured to go just ahead of the cutters or blade, so they will not pinch against it. Make sure the board is long enough to get a couple of good clamps on it. The angle on the end will be determined by this position. Cut that first.All you have to do is make one mark for your first cut. I recommend starting at the farthest end, that way you will have a solid board against the fence for the whole operation, not fingers. Just move the fence in 5/16" with each cut. You have to back out of these cuts so you need to be careful and keep tight to the fence going in and out. Leaving the feather board long enough to handle while cutting is a help. The last finger may not come out even. If this bothers you, then just cut it off.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

9. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 17, 2004 01:57pm | #16

   I take a board, mark and cut the angle, and mark the stop point with the same angle. I them mark the cut lines by ruler, on one half of the board only. Then cut the first feather on the BS with the line in the center of the kerf, flip it over and cut the 2d on the opposite side. Move the fence and cut 2 more, etc. They are awfully close to even, except for the center one, which to me is of no moment.

   Alan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com