I get titebond glue on my wood from squeeze out. After sanding, how can I check before finishing to be sure that the glue is all gone? I don’t like glue spots under my finish!
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Replies
Wet down your work with mineral spirits or naphtha.
Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
Alcohol will work fine and it evaporates faster than naphtha or mineral spirits so you can get back to work faster.Howie.........
Howie,
Right.
But I hate to admit that I'm in that much of a hurry. It also raises the grain. I use it if I'm going to use shellac as that's going to happen anyway. I use mineral spirits otherwise. I don't use either when using hot hide glue or my new best friend, Gorilla Glue.Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
The alcohol I have been using has very little water in it unless I leave it sitting around opened. The slight grain raising is not a problem anyway. It's going to get it's initial seal coat of finish and be flat sanded then. Any grain raising will be taken care of. Actually, I don't worry about grain raising unless I'm using a water based dye.But, naphtha evaporates faily fast also so using it not delay you much.Howie.........
Just as Rich said AND good lighting shining across the surface. Maybe I have to do that cus of my old eyes?
Edited 2/2/2005 7:07 pm ET by Will George
there's a cheap ultra-violet light that home depot sells for plants(kind of like a black light) for if memory serves 15.00 U.S. dim the lights turn the ultra- violet on and......presto.
.
You can also get inexpensive hand-held black-lights that run on batteries. I bought one a few years ago to help spot repairs in expensive pottery pieces at auction.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
FG. Muchos gracias for the black light idea. I just did a google search and ordered one. No matter how well I wipe down w/ mineral spirits and examine in strong light, it seems I'm often missing some.
If you build it - he will come.
[Edit -- credit where credit is due -- Bear presented the black light technique; I just followed up with the small, hand-held idea]
Doug, I was looking through a Woodworker's Supply catalog yesterday and noticed that they actually carry a fluorescent glue, made to glow under black light. I thought of you immediately!
The catalog's out in the car, and I'm in my jammies, but I'll post the link in a little while. It was a variation of one of the major glues. Too funny. I have this vision of a huge assembly room in a factory, black lights eerily glowing, and all that creepy furniture laying out there with its glue spots glowing like crazy!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 2/4/2005 11:06 am ET by forestgirl
Ooops. My Faux Pas.
Thanks to you too Bear!
When I ordered it, on the sellers webpage I noticed another application that might come in handy, although I hope I'll never have to test it. Apparently black lights are good at detecting where our 4-legged freinds have had carpet accidents.
If you build it - he will come.
Apparently black lights are good at detecting where our 4-legged freinds have had carpet accidents???
I think my old dogs do it on purpose!
Ah, I found the glow-in-the-dark glue :-)
It's in Woodworker's Hardware catalog. Minimum purchase is 1 gallon. Hmmmm, that'd last me for awhile!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
You could also switch to epoxy for most glue-ups. Epoxy is amber colored and blends in with most finishes. I always try to get most of the excess epoxy off the piece before it sets but a fleck here or there won't telegraph through the finish like titebond does.
Chip
I think a better solution is to prevent glue spots in the first place. PVA glues are really simple and easy to clean up. You can clean the glue before it tacks up with a stiff brush and water - probably for about twenty minutes after you've finished clamping.
I take an acid brush and cut it down to about 3/16" with a sharp chisel - this leaves a stiff stub of bristle. I wet the brush in a small container of water and use it scrape off the bulk of the squeeze out. I then rinse off the glue or scrape it off the brush with my fingernail. I then wet the brush again and scrub at the glue. As the glue dilutes I wipe the water/glue mixture off with a soft rag. Repeat until the glue disappears.
THis works well for me. Has anybody had problems with this technique?
Tim
Soon-to-be furniture maker
Port Townsend, WA
What a great idea, Metod. How long do you let it sit before you scrape it off?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I gotta tell ya, Method, I really do appreciate you posting that technique. I jsut have a strong feeling it's going to save me alot of aggravation. I've not done well with "the glue thing" so far!
I'll report on any research :-)
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
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