I’m new to the forums and relatively new to serious woodworking. I recently decided to build a series of four cherry Shaker end tables (featured in a recent FWW) as a good way to develop some skills. The first I finished with several coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish. and then two coats of a clear paste wax (made by HF Staples in NH). The table came out pretty good. The second table I finished with “Pure Tung Oil” from Woodcraft, described as a true tung oil that is heavy-bodied and pore-filling. I put on five coats, let it dry a couple days, and then put on the same two coats of clear paste wax. The second finish brought out more of the red tones of the cherry (the Minwax-finished table was more yellowish), so I planned to use the Woodcraft product on the third table. As I neared completion of the third table, I noticed the second one had lost its sheen. It had a dry, completely matte finish, even ever so slightly chalky. Panic. In reading the forums here, I think I better understand how this came about – the pure tung oil continued to soak in, leaving essentially nothing on the surface. the Minwax includes a varnish component and so behaved differently, forming a hard coat on the surface. So, I’ve learned some things. The question is, what to do with the 2nd table? I am partlcularly concerned about the paste wax that I put over the tung oil, and what, if anything, to do about it. Here are some options I am considering, and I would appreciate advice.
1) I am thinking of adding the Minwax Tung Oil Finish over the top of the tung oil as a sealing finish. From what I’ve read on the forums, this seems like it would work and may end up giving me the best of both worlds. But, can I do this over the oil and wax combo? The wax seems to have soaked into the wood along with the tung oil, maybe carried into the grain by the oil…
2) If I have to remove the wax, is there a way to do this short of sanding down the completed table, such as with a solvent? Sanding would be a true drag…
3) is there an alternative to the Minwax over the tung oil that I should consider instead, like shellac?
Thanks for any and all practical advice.
Replies
First, removing wax is going to be a snap. It will dissolve in mineral spirits. Just use copious amounts of paper towels so you don't smear it around instead of removing it.
Unfortunately you have discovered why most manufacturers of tung oil finish don't use tung oil. It's hard to use. The label speaks of it being fast drying. The question is faster than what? It dries faster than raw linseed oil, but MUCH slower than Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO).. It should be applied with several days between each coat, and each coat lightly sanded before the next is applied. So five coats should take at least 10 days to apply. I don't think Woodcraft's label says that. The label also says it is highly resistant to water and alcohol. Again, the marketing guys have gotten carried away. A Tung oil finsih, is more water resistant than BLO, but this is quite relative. Any varnish is more water resistant and most oil/varnish mixes would be too.
When you say it looks a little chalky, do you mean that it has a bit of a whitish cast? That white haze can be the worst feature of pure tung oil. If so, then you may need to remove it. But, I wouldn't give up on it yet, I'd give it a week or so to more fully cure, followed by a light sanding with 320 or 400 grit. Then, I'd see what happens when you wipe on one coat of the Minwax tung oil finish if you still have some of that. If it dries without the blush reappearing you are OK and it should look pretty similar to table one. If the white haze doesn't disappear or becomes worse with more extended cure time, then you would be stuck with the task of removing the tung oil. Chemical stripper is preferred, leaving the surface much more ready to accept a new finish than sanding would achieve.
After an oil (or oil/varnish) has become reasonably well cured, it can have a different top coat applied if you want a much different look. Either shellac or an oil based varish would work.
Steve mentions wiping on a coat of the Minwax. I don't know if that product is the wiping finish or not, but wiping on the finish would be the way to go. I looked it up and it said several coats. If it IS a wiping finish, that is not nearly enough. And also if it is a wiping finish, 3 applications willl not look anything like what you want in a finish. 6-8 applications are my number. And you can do several per day.
Also, for a really nice in the wood finish, get some non-poly varnish and use it as your wiping varnish.
I would also say, forget the wax altogether. It will only be a continuing "need" with little upside IF you have a good finish on the piece.
An additional point that needs to be made is that wax is a very poor finish. It has virtually no water or water vapor resistance. In fact, it will contribute greatly to imparting white rings when wet or cold glasses are placed on the finish. In addition, it has little or no abrasion resistance. And finally, as you found out, it rapidly loses any gloss you initially created. With wax you are committing to a lifelong reapplication every few months to maintain its appearance.
Pure, 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil are likewise almost as poor finishes as wax.
You sound like you are new to finishing. Let me suggest you get Understanding Finishing by Bob Flexner. Amazon will have it. It will give you all the info you need to become a competent finisher.
That book is a bible!!
I would also add, that with all due respect, I would NEVER put any other finish over a surfact that had any wax on it. Why take the chance of compromising the finish on a piece you have worked diligently on.
This is exactly the kind of guidance I was seeking. Thank you to all the responders. I understand there are differing opinions about whether I should remove the wax or not; sounds like the path of least harm is to remove it - which might be unnecessary, rather than not removing it, and possibly having a problem. Looks also like a green light on applying the Minwax product over the tung oil.
By the way, Steve, the Woodcraft label says subsequent coats can be applied within hours of each other. However, I can see now that tung oil is a slow moving finish in almost every respect!
I am new to finishing (other than slapping on a few heavy coats of polyeurethane) and will definitely check out the Flexner book.
Again, thanks - this is a great introduction to the FWW forums.
When I want a natural finish that will be duerable I use pure tung oil, the trick is to apply each subsequent coat with a wet dry piece of fine sand peper. My procedure is to do two or three coats on the first pass, wipe the excess let it dry for 4 or 5 days then apply each subsequent coat with the fine sand paper and let it dry for a day. NOw for this to work you need to do at least 15 coats, but the results are worth it.
The only problem is that if you used an oil/varnish mix, instead of pure tung oil, you can achieve results that you would be hard pressed to see the difference, and would be done in 5 coats, without a 4 day wait before coat two. I'd bet it would also be more durable as well.
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