Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 02, 2008 05:51am | #1

   I never do. 

2. 
   gatordoc | Dec 02, 2008 06:10am | #2

   Me either.
   Gatordoc

3. 
   hammer1 | Dec 02, 2008 06:23am | #3

   I use a paste type metal polish instead of the dry honing compound. I like Simichrome, Maas and Mothers. Wipe off the strop when you are done. Once in a while you can clean it up with a little mineral spirits. The polish out performs any compounds I've used.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 02, 2008 06:54am | #4

   I've never found it necessary, and have actually never heard of it either.  I can't see any benefit, as there is no swarf to wash away (EDIT) or lubrication necessary.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/1/2008 10:54 pm by flairwoodworks

5. 
   roc | Dec 02, 2008 08:42am | #5

   Let me say this about that. I don't carve much but investigated stropping thoroughly for knives and my plane blades. For the yellow brick of stopping compound I scrape the brick with an old file or the end of a ceramic sharpening stick to get a dusting of powder onto the stopping surface and just use that dry on the leather. Works great. Why the heck they don't just provide the yellow stuff as powder I will never understand.

   ( about the only use I have found for the sharpening thing with the two ceramic sticks and the block of wood. )

   Diamond paste on a maple block of wood is another good way to go.

   This is one of the best investigations of sharpening systems I have ever come across. She investigates stropping materials a fair amount

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2793

   For plane blades and knives I have dropped stropping and just use water stones up through 8000 grit.

6. 
   derekcohen | Dec 02, 2008 06:50pm | #6

   Hi Jack

   The easiest to use is the Veritas green rouge (looks like a green crayon).

   Rub it onto either hardwood or leather and add a few drops of baby oil (mineral oil). This will soften and spread it smoothly.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   user-172496 | Dec 03, 2008 02:37am | #7

   Thank's Derek, Thanks for the information, I am a always looking for new to sharpen my tools, I do not like to work for nothing. I like my saw to be sharp, and my chisels to be in top notch shape, so the tool cuts the wood and not pull it apart.

   One other thing I do a little turning and I would like some idea's on sharping the tools for turning, could I use the honing compound.

   Thanks Jack

1. 
   mike4244 | Dec 03, 2008 03:42am | #8

   Not neccesary to hone turning tools, maybe a skew because it works like a plane. I use a 120 grit friable wheel and turn right off the wheel.

   mike

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 03, 2008 07:59am | #11

   Me too.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

2. 
   roc | Dec 03, 2008 03:52am | #9

   >Baby oil
   Is that what I am suposed to do with the waxy green one ! I thought it was only good for a buffing wheel. Friction heat it up and melt it on. Thanks.
   roc

   Edited 12/2/2008 7:55 pm by roc

7. 
   Cincinnati | Dec 03, 2008 06:26am | #10

   I condition the leather wheel with light machine oil in between applications of polishing compound. The compound works its way into the leather. I only recharge the leather as needed.

   Greg

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   Exo 35:30-35