Does anyone have an opinion on a homemade HVLP. Based on a FWW article in 1994 and a related book, it seeems you could build a system that is high end and save quite a bit of money over production HVLPs. I plan on using a Ametek bypass 3 stage vaccum motor, 12.5 amps., 95scfm. Based on research and educated guess it should get right at 6psi at the gun. Would it be more trouble than it is worth?
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Replies
I did it a few years ago. I think it was worth my time. I think I worked from a plan in FWW.
I've rebuilt a few of the Campbell Hausfeld HVLPs. In the tradition of Tim the Tool Man, I used the most powerful 3-stage motor I could get - http://www.ameteklamb.com/support/prod/11676500.pdf - You'll still need a good spray gun to go with the turbine and that'll set you back $300+. The Accuspray 10 gun is cleary the best and there are others that work fine.
Instead of going the turbine route, I'd absolutely recommend getting a mid-size compressor and conversion HVLP gun (works with a compressor). It'll give you a LOT more flexibility.
If you're set on a turbine, then get the Wagner 2900. For the price, you can't beat it.
Paul
Website
I have built many turbine units over the past 11 years at about half the retail cost. My current units are dual motor 5 stage that produce 10 psi at the gun. A motor speed control can be used to vary the air flow and psi.
Dave Koury
Will not let me post more than 1 pict. Here is another view.DJK
Fantastic! What size vaccum motor do you have?
Here are the instructions:
- Motors are both Ametek 5.7” dia., by-pass tangential discharge
- three stage #116765-00
- two stage #119-412-13
- both are rated 500 hour average life
- Ametek also makes 7.2” dia. motors with a 700 hour average life. Make sure the motors are “by-pass” design NOT “flow thru”. By-pass have a fan on the commutator end to help cool the motor.
- The 1/2” MDF box is 17” x 9” x 12 1/2” for the motors listed. If different motors are used resize the box.
- Air filter is a Fram #CA3915. The two round filters are non woven nylon scuff pads cut to fit over the cooling fans.
- Two 15 amp on/off switches
- Use a 12 ga. power cord.
- The box just holds the motors and filters. It’s a cut and fit to build operation. The output of the two stage is connected to the input of the three stage. The three is bolted to the center divider over a 2” hole and the two is bolted to the back panel. The outlet of the two is press fit into the divider hole. The two stage holes for the cooling fans, with the nylon pads, are rabbeted to hold the filters. You can use any method or type of filters, they are for course material, not like the Fram type. The main Fram filter is over a 2” hole. Build a frame for it and screw it to the box.
- Hose connector. Use a metal funnel cut to fit over the outlet of the three stage and use silicone to seal it. The other end is cut to accept a hose connector. I use a 3/4” PVC threaded male hose pipe epoxied to the funnel.
- Wire a switch to each motor and connect them in parallel to the power cord. DON’T wire the motors in series, they will run half speed.
- I purchase motors from Nationwide Sales and Service 800-555-4493, http://www.shopnss.com. If you have a Granger catalog , they list specs. on the motors but their prices are high. Go to the Ametek web site and check specs. and dealers. Get a three stage with high “lift” spec. Those will produce the highest psi.
- I use a bleeder type gun. If a non-bleed gun is used, a relief valve can be installed at the hose to box connection. It will open when the trigger is not pressed and close when in use.
- Hope this helps. Contact me with questions.Dave Koury
Thank you. Thank you.
I very likely will have questions. I am ordering a motor today and will get started. Your are right, shopnss.com has great prices.
A question already. What is high "lift"?
Thanks.
Water Lift is the method of testing a vaccuum motor. Measures the height of a collum of water that a motor can "lift" sort of like the amount of "head" for a pump. The higher the lift the higher the pressure on the exhaust side. A 3 stage usually produces more lift but less cfm than a 2 stage.Dave Koury
Thank you.
Triple thank you for the source!
I think I'm going to 'pump up' my Wagner 2000 turbine and add a pressure pot.
Thank you again.
Nick
This sounds interesting. The Ametek motor you describe has much more power than you'll use for an hvlp system. I use a conversion gun, a Kremlin, which cost 500 $, so whichever motor you use, a good finish still requires a well-machined spray gun.
Thank you. I am looking at an Accuspray 10.
sounds complicated. I have an Asturo Eco/S gravity gun that I paid around $400 for. It's working pressure is only 21psi, air consumption is 7 cfm so pretty much any compressor will drive it. If you are doing true production work, you can go with a cup or pressure pot setup (you only need 5cfm for these setups) for a few dollars more.
Asturo guns are beautifully machined, nicely balanced for easy use, and most importantly, the work results are fantastic. The gravity gun is a breeze to clean as well.
I build one several years ago and it still works fine. The only "additional" accessory that I would suggest is a pressure bypass that will relieve built up pressure while the gun is not being used (unless of course you use a bleeder gun).
I bought mine from the Accuspray folks
Steve
Thank you.
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