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Hello,
I’m going to use 132g hide glue and a veneer hammer to veneer (paper backed) onto an MDF surface. My question is; MDF soaks up water real well esp. the end of the boards and hide glue is mostly water…. should I prime the MDF and with what.. cut down glue… how about only the ends of the panels which by the way are rounded over.
Also what about BFV veneer vs. paperbacked…will simple paper backed react to the water in the hide glue and ripple when/as I hammer it down?
Thanks for any help,
Mark Denoncourt
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Replies
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Mark,
Do not use hide glue on MDF. Personally, I don't think that sizing will help. Use yellow glue. As to paper backed veneers, I stay away from them completely. FWIW.
Dano
*Someone mentioned to me that I could seal the edges/or everything of the MDF with a 1# cut shellac....but how would the hide glue take to a sealed edge/surface like this?MarkPS. I'm guessing I just test out the hide glue on a scrap of raw MDF and see what happens...can't see hide glue having that much more liquid VS. solids than white or yellow glue (hide glue is about %50)any other comments?
*TAB, no problem. Dissention is the spice of life. I would never use hide glue on MDF, nor would I recommend that anyone do so. But, if you have had good luck with it so far I won't knock it. IMO, MDF is basically paper and moisture will cause it to swell. I live in a fairly arid climate yet I have scraps of MDF from the same sheet that vary in thickness.Any who, I am not much of a risk taker when it comes to commissioned pieces and stick pretty much to traditional practices.Mark, I still recommend against using hide glue on MDF. Go to the library or buy a copy of "The Encyclopedia Furniture Making" by Ernest Joyce, ISBN 0-87749-068-6. He is pretty specific on types of glues and how they should be used. His chapter on veneering also discusses glues in further detail.Dano
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