Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Jun 09, 2007 08:13pm | #1

   Hi FG,

   Consider using Patrick Edwards' Old Brown Glue. A liquid hide glue. Just keep your shop at a comfortable work temperature.

   Edwards says it better (shorter) than I:

   "This means you have about an hour to assemble your project before the glue starts to set up. It cleans up easily with cold water. It has superior strength in tight fitting joints and remains flexible after it sets."

   http://www.wpatrickedwards.com/gluepage.htm

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 10, 2007 01:34am | #4

   Hi, Mike.  Unfortunately, I first heard about Old Brown after I had bought a more commercial brand.  Will keep it in mind for the next purchase, thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   mwenz | Jun 10, 2007 02:35am | #5

   Hi FG,In all likelihood I suspect you are referring to Titebonds? No worries. I've used them all. They all work fine. Main thing is the age of the bottle. I forget if the current crop shows an expiry date or code. Mine doesn't hang out long enough to worry about it.Take care, Mike

2. 
   BilWil | Jun 10, 2007 12:14am | #2

   I suggest you mix up three batches of hide glue, in the first just put hide glue and water, in the second put hide glue, water and urea, in the third put water, hide glue and twice as much urea.  Urea is available at most garden stores, it is with the fertilizers.  Urea slows the gel and set times.

   Then you can glue up some scrap, three or four examples with each sample, time yourself with each one and then test the strength of each to see which of the mixes is best for you and your shop.  You don't even have to clamp the samples to tell when the glue is gelling.

   I use some small, squat home canning glass jars that fit in my Rival brand soup warmer, set to 140 degrees.  The best mix for my shop is 4 to 5 ounces of 251 gram strength glue, an equal amount of water and 2 tablespoons of urea.  In my shop in the winter it is about 60 to 65 degrees.  I don't change my formula for summer, although I suppose I should.  I use hide glue with no urea for small rub joints, i.e. glue block for legs and the like.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 10, 2007 01:33am | #3

   BW, thanks for the details.  Your info will be valuable as a reference!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

3. 
   Pondfish | Jun 10, 2007 03:06pm | #6

   fg,

   I've used the titebond liquid hide glue for several glue-ups and never ran out of time.  You can wiggle joints for several minutes if the assembly is a tough one.  I'd say get a bottle of the liquid stuff and just do it...you'll like the results. 

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
4. 
   AdamCherubini | Jun 10, 2007 03:21pm | #7

   I think the liquid hide glues are kinda pointless. If you want a flexible, long work time glue that works well in tight joints, why not just use PVA? The only advantage of hide glue for this application is clean-up and disassembly. Those are significant issues to be sure. But woodworkers who sand their projects probably wouldn't notice much difference in their work.

   Hot hide glue, on the other hand, offers several advantages over other workshop glues. It has good gap filling properties (hide glue and epoxy are our only gap filling glues), allows quick set/grab and fairly quick cure times. If you are using traditional joinery, hide glue's quick set-up should be an advantage rather than a disadvantage. You can build a part, glue it in place without clamps, and continue adding pieces. In a busy shop, this allows me to continue building, not stop and wait for some critical sub-assembly.

   I think the liquid hide glues are trying to compete with PVA for convenience. In my opinion, the best use of liquid hide glue is as a convenient source of urea to slow down hot hide glue.

   Adam