Replies

1. 
   Woodman41 | Nov 18, 2009 01:34am | #1

   HIde glue is a good substitute for PVA glues (plain 'ol white or yellow glue). The stuff in a bottle has gotten quite a bit better, making it hard to go through the trouble of breaking out the glue pot and melting your own.

   I actually prefer hide glue over PVA in many situations.

2. 
   Ckenney | Nov 18, 2009 04:20pm | #2

   With that many M&T, liquid hide glue's longer open time will drastically reduce the stress level. An added bonus: any squeeze out won't affect the finish or stain. I don't use it all the time, but this is the perfect place for it.

   Chris

   http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey
1. 
   roc | Nov 20, 2009 08:20am | #8

   I will add : it is interesting to note there are different grades of hot glue for different uses. For the best experience you may want to investigate these.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   StephenShepherd | Nov 20, 2009 06:02pm | #9

   I think hide glue is always the best choice, either hot or the ready to use liquid form.

   I have also hammered veneer with both, but usually prefer liquid hide glue for this process.  I have used both Franklin/Titebond and Patrick Edwards Old Brown Glue (which is excellent).

   I have also hammered thick hand sawn veneers.  If the veneer is wrinkled, I pretreat it with water/glycerine mixture to soften things up.

   Stephen

1. 
   idahoknotty | Nov 21, 2009 01:01am | #10

   Hello all,

   I just ordered a couple different glues from TFWW, good summary of the types and uses there (and what appear to be good prices too).  I will report on how I do...

   Also, came across this as an inexpensive glue pot, haven't seen it mentioned here:

   http://www.spurlocktools.com/id57.htm

    

   Cheers,

   Chris C.

1. 
   danmart | Nov 21, 2009 01:27am | #11

   Chris

   I have used the Rival hot pot for 3 years now and it is the best pot for maintaining a good steady temperature. I would recommend it unconditionally. You can find them on line for around 20 bucks in several places.

   I mix up small amounts in a pirex beaker and store it in the refrigerator for a week or so.

   I was playing with different gram strengths for veneer work and general joinery to see if I could tell/see much difference in the characteristics of the grades available.

   I just can not tell from my trials why I would encourage another man to use the 250 gram stuff over the 190 stuff. The only thing I find is the higher gram stuff seems to set up a little faster with the rub joints.

   Thats not a big selling point for me as I use hide in chairmaking for the slower dry time. I like the Olde Brown Glue from P.Edwards as it gives me extra time and it is great on repairs.

   Some others have mentioned using a little urea to slow the dry time. Being a little lazy about getting some, I have used salt in the mix to slow it down. It works.

   For anyone out there who has not used the stuff, don't be put off by the discussion of how to mix it and this and that. Just get some and try it out. Do some testing and I think you will be surprised with how easy it is to use. Its not complicated.

   After using yellow glues and having some frustrations with glue squeeze out and discoloration when applying dyes, I appreciate hide glue.

   Get a pound, mix it up and play with it. Hey everybody has a pile of scraps in the corner-- put 'em to use.

   good luck

   dan

   Edited 11/20/2009 5:30 pm ET by danmart

2. 
   boilerbay | Nov 21, 2009 03:20am | #12

   Idaho,Been using one for about 5 years to keep my BLO warm. Would be great for hide, I suppose. Put the makings into a ball jar and heat. Finding that right temp takes a little practice.
   Target or Walmart- 16 to 20 bucks.BB

3. 
   idahoknotty | Nov 21, 2009 04:14am | #13

   Thanks Dan and BB for the endorsements and encouragement--i won't hesitate to try the rival pot.

   Cheers,C

3. 
   RMillard | Nov 18, 2009 08:01pm | #3

   Sinsin,

   I have gotten away from using liquid hide glue and moved to adding urea to hot hide glue to slow the gel time. If I were facing a really complicated glue up (a sideboard comes to mind), I wouldn't hesitate to use fresh liquid hide glue. Don't be troubled by the squeeze out being in of rubbery, at the thickness of the glue line in a well fitted joint, the glue will be rigid, although it make take a day or so to fully dry/cure. While I never had a problem with the Hide Glue from Franklin, I would use the Old Brown Glue sold by Patrick Edwards.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

1. 
   idahoknotty | Nov 18, 2009 09:33pm | #4

   I'm interested in trying some hammer veneering with shop made veneers and have a couple questions:

   1)Would the Old Brown Glue be suitable for this, or will i do better getting set up for hot hide glue?

   2) Is there a limit to the thickness of veneers for hammer veneering (i'm planning to cut ~3/32" veneer, but can go thinner if necessary)?.

   Thanks,Chris C.

1. 
   RMillard | Nov 19, 2009 01:55am | #5

   Chris,

    

   You have to use hot hide glue for hammer veneering. It is the quick gel time that makes hammer veneering possible. The glue goes from a slick liquid to a sticky mess very quickly.

   The thickest I have used is 1/16" and it went  much the same as sliced veneers as long as the veneer was flat. I once tried to hammer some rippled 1/16" mahogany veneer, that finally went down, but with great difficulty. Had standard veneer been rippled to the same degree, it would have presented no problem. I don't think sawn veneer would be as likely to ripple as sliced veneer, but it would want to curl, so the glue may need to be thicker than that used with sliced veneer.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

   Edited 11/18/2009 5:57 pm ET by RMillard

1. 
   idahoknotty | Nov 19, 2009 03:20am | #6

   Thanks Rob, for the quick response.  I'll try cutting a few different thicknesses and trying them out before getting started in earnest.

    

   Cheers,Chris C.

1. 
   DonStephan | Nov 19, 2009 03:22am | #7

   Rob has a DVD in which he demonstrates hammer veneering.  The DVD is very clear and complete, and I highly recommend it.