Here’s the scenario:
several base cabinets for a desk all have edgebanded 1/2″ Okoume plywood drawer faces. All the cabinets have drawers except for one, which is a skinny cabinet specifically designed to hold a tower PC. This one cabinet has a door on it (the only door on the cabinets).
The door is full overlay. There is no face frame on the case itself. I can’t change materials (like a thicker door) since all the drawer faces are cut from one sheet of ply and the whole thing matches beautifully.
So my problem is:
1. normal cup hinges used for full overlay require too deep of a drilled hole for 1/2″ ply
2. I am concerned that a regular hinge would not hold well since I would have to use short screws to hold it to the door. (they would pull out)
What kind of hinge can I use on this thing? It seems silly to me that I’ve made this massive 12′ desk system with 7 different cabinets, and I’m just totally hung up on this one little thing.
Replies
Kev, Why not juat glue four magnets (####pair at each end) so you can just pull outand off the whole drawerfront?
Attach each pair of mating magnets 'North to South'
I get them in Lowe's and use them for 'Secret' compartments.
PLIOBOND Glue holds like iron.Steinmetz.
have you considered a frace frame adaptor for the hinge? - requires no hole in the side - only in the door itself.
Can you glue on a spacer to add thickness to the areas where you need to bore your 35mm holes?
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
All of the above are good suggestions, but one more is to use the euro type that just screws to the back of the door without drilling for the cup. It takes a little more room, but works the same way.
Maybe these?
http://www.soss.com/
Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=1&p=40980&cat=3,41241
Here is link for the clip on plates
http://www.cabinetparts.com/shop_2003/euro_hinges/blum/blum_hinges.php?SID=1118090145.146781038642a4b3a14d98d.060605
Go down to the Base (Mounting) Plates section
FYI, Price is per plate (need 1 per hinge)
1. normal cup hinges used for full overlay require too deep of a drilled hole for 1/2" ply
Gee.. Why not just put in a backer strip of wood on the back of the door so you can drill the depth of the hinge you want??
Ya only see it when the door is open and they usually just lookin' at the PC screen!
Well, maybe. But the back of your strip of wood now becomes the back of the door, so far as the hinge is concerned. So you'd have to fool it by moving the hinge mounting plate back the distance of your strip. I think. I'm not sure if the geometry of the hinge will allow that (depends on the maker, probably). In effect you are creating a lipped door, and I've not seen Euro hinges for lipped doors, though there certainly may be some.
Don I was just thinking what I would do if I had the problem... I could be wrong!
Will- your idea is good (Jazzdogg said it too), and I thought of it too, but Don brings up a good point- would it mess with the geometry of the hinge, making it stick or not open correctly? It sure would be a winner all around, in that it would give a more solid foundation to attach the hinge to the door.The 4-way hinge from Lee Valley that Papanick linked to is interesting though. Is that the same one that Rootburl is talking about? I always like trying a new piece of hardware, but I guess I'm still a little bit concerned about having to use short screws due to the 7/16" thickness of the door itself...Sorry to all for the delay in my reply. I try to stay away from my computer at home as much as possible :)
but Don brings up a good point- would it mess with the geometry of the hinge, making it stick or not open correctly?
Same strip sixeon the other end of the Hinge?
Hey, I just noticed this is the 24,000th thread on Knots. Cool...
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled