I need help with resawing.
I have a 14″ Reliant bandsaw. I have added a Fastrack fence and a Fastrack resaw fence. I have a 1/2″ 3 TPI skip hook blade (new and sharp) and I have added Carter blade guides and have adjusted them per instructions. I have tuned the saw per numerous articles I have read on the subject (tension, tracking, etc.). I am trying to resaw 4/4″ x 5 1/2″ maple into 1/4″ stock. I cannot get a straight cut. It goes pretty well, then the bottom will bow (in towards the fence) and ruin the cut.
I have tried numerous attempts and techniques of feeding the stock through the cut, but I can’t get a decent result. I am tired of wasting maple! Can anyone figure what I am doing wrong or leaving out? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Brian
Replies
Your approach is mostly correct, though you are use low-end machinery. Install a blade designed for resawing like a 1" or 3/4" wide blade with 3-5 tpi. Close in the upper guide to leave only about a 1/2" of clearance. The wider your blade, the truer the resaw cut.
The tension produced by this saw may be barely enough to resaw a dense wood like maple, but since you've set all other factors meticulously, if you go slow it should work.
bayviewr,
I'd suspect the blade. I don't know what brand you have, but I've bought blades at the hdwe store that were not sharp when new.
In my experience (Ihave a 14" Delta with riser block) 1/2" blade is big enough to resaw, if it is sharp.I've resawn cherry 10-11" wide with little problem.
Something that will lighten the load on your saw is to resaw partway on the tablesaw (if you have one) from both edges of the board. Then use your bandsaw to finish ripping the strip down the middle that the saw won't reach.
Regards,
Ray
Ill try that with the tablesaw.
BTW, the blade is a 93 1/2" Woodslicer from Highland Hardware. Supposedly designed for resawing.
bayview1,
You'll probably save a whole lot of maple just doing the whole thing on the TS with a thin kerf blade.
When I had the problem your raising I noticed two things: low and behold my table top and blade were not perpendicular to each other and the fense was in it's own plane. Also, I needed to apply constant and equal pressure from the same spot on the back side of the stock to achieve nice flat cuts....which I could not do if my stock was too long and heavy. Lastly, the damn maple bowed and twisted after the cut and much of it was rendered worthless...
I have re-tuned my BS consistant with the article in FWW....definitely less vibration. I'm anxious to see if it impacts the quality of my resawing.
Tighten up the tension a bit .The blade may be bowing because it is under tensioned.It is possible that the lower blade guides are not in the same vertical plane as the top guides. I used to work for Woodworkers Warehouse that sold these saws. I found this problem on one saw that was returned. Also ,never lift the saw by the table to move it, trunnions are cheap and will break.
mike
Have you read through Highland Hardware's resawing tips?
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=19
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